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#1
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by Eyez Open - Today at 01:22 AM
I've been watching it looks like excellent framing and sculpture. In this vast shop of yours you don't by chance have a mini airless sprayer do you? That would make short and excellent work for your gel coating..Just flat even finishes.
#2
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - Today at 01:07 AM
Inside the box was a slip of paper saying that the new headers shouldn't be used but if you place fans at the headers to cool them off while the engine is running then you should be okay..

When I start my new engine, there will be no mufflers..because the old mufflers won't fit the new headers..So no back pressure..that will help keep the headers cool..

In regards to timing the engine before starting..UTG (uncle Tony's garage) has a video on how to set the timing by having the crank (engine not running) at 30 advanced..I think it is called static timing..

Having a timing light hooked up before start and the distributor locking nut loosened enough to twist it at first moments of running..

Any ways that is a ways off..but it is getting closer!!

Worked some more on the front fiberglass eyebrow..A good sanding is next and the the final gel coat to be applied..
#3
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by Eyez Open - Yesterday at 07:02 PM
Quote from: RockwoodMike on May 04, 2024, 01:05 AMWith the ceramic coating and an engine that needs a cam break in, Hedman is recommending NOT to have these headers installed till after break in..Too much heat for the fresh ceramic coating..

They want you to use your old headers then switch them out after the break in..

Here is a couple of pictures of mounting the fuel pumps and filter..It sure is easy to do things in the frame and engine bay with no engine installed!! Also not having a floor in makes it easy too!

That Heddam advise is very sound, in most break in moments the timing curve has not been setup properly. How could it be,the engine has yet to fired and timed. To further things more than likely the vacuum advance system has not been setup properly. Running a engine at 2000 rpm should require about 25/30 degrees of advance...pretty tough to determine that without timing tape or marked balancer.

The point is low initial timing can create enough heat it just frys the headers, No vacuum advance running during initial breakin is very bad.

#4
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 05, 2024, 10:24 PM
Sanded it all down and primed the inside and out
#5
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 05, 2024, 10:23 PM
After welding, I just test fit back in the mounts..Everything good..
#6
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 05, 2024, 10:21 PM
Doing the welding and then the grinding
#7
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 05, 2024, 10:19 PM
It was too windy and cold to do any fiberglass work..Worked on the dash..cleaning it up..

Pic 1-2. this is what I have to work with..

Pic 3-4.. the center support was cut..I don't think I did that..Why would someone do that?  Gotta weld it back up..
#8
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 04, 2024, 03:41 PM
Hi Ed,

Here is some pictures of the original eyebrow piece..It was made just like the original walls..Aluminum skin..foam..wood skin..All glued together and then pressed..

All of the outside edge wood pieces were just gone from wood rot..That allowed water in everywhere..

Those aluminum cap pieces were there because of the attempted sealing with silicon..The screws that were there were gone because the wood was gone..

That is the story of this whole RV..All new walls..new roof..

But with the fiberglass, it will roll over the edges, where ever the wall meets the roof..And that will be the water seal..not the aluminum pieces..They will act as finish trim and not act as a water block..
#9
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by Edmather - May 04, 2024, 02:43 PM
Hi Mike, Thank you for posting these up, really helpful!

Ed

Quote from: RockwoodMike on May 01, 2024, 10:42 PMPic 1-2..Doing the first section of glassing..About a foot wide..Takes about 1.5 pints of resin to lay it up..

Pic 3-4..Second section with about an inch overlap..
#10
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - May 04, 2024, 01:05 AM
With the ceramic coating and an engine that needs a cam break in, Hedman is recommending NOT to have these headers installed till after break in..Too much heat for the fresh ceramic coating..

They want you to use your old headers then switch them out after the break in..

Here is a couple of pictures of mounting the fuel pumps and filter..It sure is easy to do things in the frame and engine bay with no engine installed!! Also not having a floor in makes it easy too!