The online brochures show Mor/Ryde Rubber suspension as an option in 69, 70, 71, 72 and 73. I'm trying to find more information about this suspension, anyone else have it on their rig?
I'm taking it that this is not a tag axle, but just a Mor/Ryde rubber suspension. I suppose you have already been here: http://www.morryde.com/downloads/technical/MO-MotorHome%20Service%20Manual.pdf (http://www.morryde.com/downloads/technical/MO-MotorHome%20Service%20Manual.pdf)
The early Winnebagos, not a tag axle, had something called MorRyde, it was a rubber suspension instead of springs on the back.
Yep ibdilbert01...the link Dan posted for you is for the single axle version of the MorRyde. His and mine have the tag axle, but there are a lot of similarities, including the rubber shear springs.
Kev
My right sheer pads are starting to deteriorate, the left pads look to be new within the last 10 years or so. I'm actually starting to lean a bit to the right, so I'm going to replace the pads before my next RV adventure.
I emailed Mor-Ryde and they were very helpful in figuring out what I need. The replacement part number for the new sheer pads are MO25-003. That part number is a complete assemble (two pads) bolted together. Current price is $217.77 per assembly, mine has 4 assemblies on each side.
Pretty expensive, but it does ride nice, so I guess I shouldn't complain. D:oH!
Well Folks, bad news for the Rig.
She has cracks bends and frame buckling back by the mor/ryde mounts. I have officially deemed her "unsafe" to drive.
oh no. I love that rig. so what needs to be done. can the frame be fish plated and welded. (make it stronger then new)
Now this moride can it be removed, and go back to a regular suspension on the rear just like all us older rigs have.
If you have any questions or ideas on how to fix it. by all mean. post pics. I know you and you dad are both very crafty guys, but lets get as many ideas on how to fix it, and then go with the one that is best and most cost effective.
I hope you can get it fixed during the cold off season. (do you feel safe with you guys welding it? or do you no someone who can do the welding? and not rake you over the coals? Its a bugger underneath the rv. so much easier if you could use a hoist for a day.
Now that you have found your dream veh, (wonder if PO knew about this). You must get all available recomendations on repairing . As stated by cosmic repairs can be made stronger than original constuction . Dont give up on it . Unless you can afford to move up into the 2000 yr models, there will be repairs needed, some more serious than others :( Frank
Aaaaaaaw MAN! NO! Is it really that bad or is it a case you just got discouraged a little to quick. There's got to be a way. I know a real good welder up here in Canada. Awwww Crap. D:oH!
noooooo... can't be.. we can fix her we can make her better than she was... we CAN do it!
T
Of course its fixable! Totally! (Geeze, I never said I wasn't going to fix it!)....
You all should know us better than that! It'll take more than a cracked up, twisted up bent frame to stop us!
Pop and I sat down at the drawing table first thing this morning and put together a marvelous plan! Probably won't be able to start on it till the weather turns though! Thats ok, gives me time to order some of the stuff we'll need, I'll post pictures as we make changes and repairs.
She'll be better than new! (Seriously!)
stop scaring us then... LOL.. Gracie will roll again!
T
You all started to scare me! LOL Of Course shes going to roll again! Shes just not safe to drive until we fix her!
:)rotflmao Awww yeah didn't fool me. I was just kidding. I know you and Pops were just pulling our leg. :)rotflmao
I'll start by saying Pop and I noticed this issue a while back, we just didn't expect to be working on a fix this soon. I'm going to try to explain the situation, its tricky to explain. Below is a diagram of my Mor/Ryde configuration, with the exception my shocks are in a different location.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/MoreRyde.jpg)
In the diagram above, #11 (Cross member straps) keeps the frame rails from spreading apart at the bottom when the weight of the vehicle is applied to the Hanger Assembly (#2).
Had those straps been installed, my frame would probably look just fine today.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1970%2520Winnebago%2FFrame%2520Issues%2Fmed_2013-12-28%252013.40.46.jpg&hash=cc77c60b7b06a1e5ddb20d2278ad9c1e2e0d45bd)
In the pic above, you can see the bottom mor/ryde plates are "fairly" straight, but the top right corner of the mount (#2 in the diagram) is touching the bottom of the floor of the Winnebago. There should be a 2 inch gap, as the entire rig sits on metal 2x2s that run across the frame. Both sides are bent to this extreme and you can see where the PO had repairs done.
Just in front of one of the mor/rydes is a factory cross-member, its pretty much the only thing keeping the frame rails from REALLY flexing, and its cracked, and has been plated at the top on one end, and a strap was added to keep the frame from flexing. This side is the best side, and to the best of my knowledge has not gotten worse since I've owned the rig, it seems to be holding up.
(Drivers Side)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1970%2520Winnebago%2FFrame%2520Issues%2Fmed_2013-12-28%252013.39.20.jpg&hash=42b3a9c2a66e5f161dfe6438803f993da01bd459)
In the picture below, you can almost see the frame rail being twisted counter clock wise, and the bottom piece of the cross-member is tilted with the frame. What you cannot see is the crack on the back of the cross-member allowing to flex even more.
(Passenger Side)
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1970%2520Winnebago%2FFrame%2520Issues%2Fmed_2013-12-28%252013.39.37.jpg&hash=82b8c48190b7959441a81c82db5f2aa8b6b4d5d6)
First we have to unbend the frame rails. There is also some minor buckeling in a few spots that we might just leave alone. Then we are going to build a redesigned cross member that grabs the frame rails, and also provides us a place to weld the Mor/Ryde Hanger assembles to. Should keep us busy one weekend if anything....
I expected the frame rails to look worse. from the pics looks like you still have steel to work with. So it sounds like your going to have to cut out the crunched cross member and make or find one that will work.
whats throwing me is how that c channel twisted like that. It can be welded solid I guess. that will stop it in its tracks.
Sounds like you and your dad had the fix figured out before you were done your first coffee. that's good. nothing you guys cant handle. :)ThmbUp
That's what I'm talking about! This is why CWVRV family rocks over all the rest.
Question, Tim - Do you think the fram problems may have occured due to the mor/ryde installation? Maybe something about the frame intrinsically not being able to handle the stress? Or, do you think maybe it was that the RV was ridden hard and put away wet instead?
If your assessment is that the problem is intrinsic, this would be extremely valuable info for others who have, or who may want to install the system on the old models!
I have a lot of information on the original owner and there is no doubt in my mind he took exceptional good care of the RV. The second owner only had the rig for part of a summer and only used it one time before selling to me. The second owner also said he did no repairs, and I believe him. I do not think the issue was due to abuse.
Normally, frame rails rest directly on top of the leaf springs. Even a poorly designed cross-member would be ok in this situation, as its really not receiving a great deal of stress. However with the Mor/Ryde system, because its rubber springs are mounted on extension arms welded to the side of the Frame (#2 in diagram), it caused the frame rails to twist (roll out on the bottom).
The diagram shows cross member straps (#11), mine did not have these straps, this was a later design with Mor/Ryde to prevent what happened to mine. These straps would prevent the frame rails from spreading out at the bottom.
Dad has actually came up with a really simple and fairly easy fix, I'll keep you all posted when we fix her back up! But we won't be able to start until winter leaves us!
To answer Marks question, I think if anyone has an early mor/ryde, they should go back and add straps across the bottom as in the diagram above.
:) :)ThmbUp
Spring fever has set in, I'm sure its just a fever because the sun has yet to bring actual heat.... ;)
I called mor/ryde and ordered new pads. Those guys are the nicest folks you'll ever talk too! I placed the order Monday afternoon and the new pads arrived today!
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthenetbytes.com%2FPIX%2Fqdig-files%2Fconverted-images%2F1970%2520Winnebago%2FFrame%2520Issues%2Fmed_2014-03-26%252019.17.25.jpg&hash=040ed89a3510c95daf2a828436652adc6dc77cb8)
Nice. PN?? Mind if I ask what those set you back for??
The part number is MO25-003 and the 2 block assembly is $216.77 plus shipping. My rig requires 8 assemblies, but 4 look like they have been replaced in the last decade. To keep it from listing, I'll put two new ones on the right, and two new ones on the left.
woof.. ???
Groovy...
Made some more progress this weekend! Last weekend Dad and I fixed the frame, was actually not that big of a deal, and we used scrap metal to fix it, so cost was cheap too! :)clap
Some pics with some notations trying to explain the issue as best as I can.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/mr1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/mr2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/mr3.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/mr4.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12826399/2014-04-05%2018.37.16.jpg)
Sorry for the fish eye lens, was the only way I could get the shot to fit. We basically made an I beam for a cross support. Everything was bolted and welded. should be pretty tough. The all-thread on the bottom was just to bring the rails so we could bolt up the bottom supports, but we decided to leave them there as added support anyhow.
nice work gents. :)ThmbUp
Thats one of those jobs nobody wants to do!! Looks great :)ThmbUp
Wait, did I see a shelf bracket in one of those pics? ???
Thanks for the post and the pictures. I just happen to have a customer with one and it at the shop for a fuel flow issue. I will have to check his Mor/Ryde and see whats up with it as it sags on the LR.
Quote from: Stripe on April 07, 2014, 03:51 PM
Wait, did I see a shelf bracket in one of those pics? ???
LOL Yeah you did..... It serves for another purpose... It keeps the tote aligned on the tote lift.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAQOaO5ObaY&list=UUUo7ezHht2hfimrQ92RoIbQ
Stripe - dood - did you check out any of his other videos?
Holy crap.
So...are you replacing ALL the shear springs, or reusing the ones that looked fairly new?
If you are replacing them all then the fairly new looking ones might be something you'd consider selling used. I'm sure there are a lot of HR owners with tag axles that are on a budget...and as we've seen in another post, the part number is the same...its just that your suspension takes 8 of them, while a tag axle setup only needs 4.
Kev
I'm going to re-use the newer looking ones. I only bought 4 sets. I am going to blend them though, 2 new and 2 used on each side.
Cool! It seemed on the other post about the shear springs that you were going with all new.
Kev
Quote from: oldrockandroller on April 07, 2014, 07:12 PM
Stripe - dood - did you check out any of his other videos?
Holy crap.
I did a while ago. Not all mind you but yeah.. :D You can tell how he uses a drone to record the tour of his RV..