Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Eyez Open and 22 Guests are viewing this topic.

RockwoodMike

My Hedders came today..Only the best for Rebecca!!

.38 thick flanges..14 gauge tubing..heavy duty!!
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

I still have the itch for that type of header..chrome look. :)clap

RockwoodMike

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/header_finishes_how_to_choose_what_s_best/

The original headers that were on this were chromed..that burnt off..That shows how hot these things can get..

The ceramic coating should hold up better..Also these new ones have 14 gauge tubing..with .38 thick flanges.

Regular headers have 18 gauge and .31 thick flanges..

Yea, I paid a good price for this..but I think it is worth it..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Agreed on the coating application, actually most of the conversation on quench/heat was founded on high heat and detonation.

Low compression smog motors generate huge amounts of heat energy. The first time I opened the dog house in my RV I couldn't believe the lack of circulation design. Big blocks only compound the issues.

I've seen thousands of posts acknowledging performance gains using headers. Which make no sense since historically headers scavenge exhaust at above 5000 rpm and then create hp/ energy.

All of the vapor lock issues, all of the cracked manifold's, abysmal mileage, and poor preformance...Once upon a time we called it lugging a engine..again night heat. Ever notice the gearing in a RV it's incredibly low, designed that way to makeup for combustion efficiency.

It's my opinion only headers aid in heat dissipation quite a bit. Well worth the investment and ceramic coatings insulate some of the heat from the engine bay...Oh and then there is that chrome look..lmao