Hello Everyone!! Another A727 rebuild in the works here..I have torn it down in my other thread, but I am going to get into the details of it all here..
So here goes..........
Pic 1..Here is my assemble table..This is the same area that I rebuilt the rearend of my D22 1973 Indian..
Simple 2 saw horses, a piece of 1/4 plate steel and some cardboard..Cardboard acts like a sponge if you have trans fluid leak from somewhere..
Pic 2.. 90 degree view from the first pic showing the tool box for easy reach.
Pic 3..One of the 3/8 bolts that hold the tail housing has blown out threads in the case..3/8 Helicoil kit on order..Be here on Saturday to fix it..
Pic 4..Take out these 3 plugs..They are access points for pressure gauges..I didn't have them out when I was soda blasting and soda was in the passages..That would have been bad!!
Another washing with the power washer was done..
Another thing I needed to do before power washing it again was to take out the low reverse servo mechanism..(for lack of a better name)..Long punch (I used a long 3/8 ratchet extension..One tap and it push right out) This needs to come out to clean everything well and to later replace the sealing O ring that is on the shaft..
All shafts need to be sealed to keep them from leaking...Right? :rolleyes:
The bell housing is round and I nearly had the case fall off the table because of it..That would have not been good..So I came up with this...
Pic 1 and 2..A simple 2x2 about 18 inches long bolted at the top 2 bolt holes of the bell housing..Stop it from rolling and hold it steady...
Pic 3...Bell housing face down with another 2x2 and it stays in place..
Pic 4...With 3 2x6 locks under the body area, it holds steady when you are working on it..
Using this tool...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154387238108
On the rear clutch..This is the clutch that creates 2nd and 3rd gear..
With the clutch engaged..3rd gear
with the clutch disengaged..and the forward band on..second gear..
With the tool in use, you push down on the spring retainer plate..remove the circlip and loosen the tool..and all the springs showing..Yours springs and arrangement might be different
Pics show the steps
Steel and frictions from this clutch..Notice the pattern on the frictions..Cross hatch..
The other clutch has smooth frictions..
Pic 1..Smoked steel..Burnt and warped
Pic 2.. Frictions..Totally smoked..
The heavy pressure plate at the top of the stack is in good shape..Not cracked or burnt
Center of this clutch area..
This bushing looks good..You can see the area where the rings ride on..That area will be green scotch pad smooth..So when the new rings will have seat to the cross hatch the pad will do..
Like doing a hone on a engine cylinder so the piston rings seat and seal properly..
Pic 2..shows the rubber lip seals..The inner seal was flat and this may be the reason for the clutch being burnt..Just leaked all the pressure out and caused a weak engagement
Pic 3..Blown out pan bolt thread..just one of them is bad..5/16-18 Helicoil needed..
Rear clutch assemble..This clutch is on in all forward gears and stays on..
So you put the shift selector in drive..shift through all the gears as you accelerate..It is on all through the shifting..
Only off in park-neutral and reverse..
Pic 1..Shows the clutch with the steels and frictions removed..Bellville spring showing..along with the piston and that little thrust washer..That is the washer that has both the input shaft and output shaft meeting in the middle..
Pic 2..Frictions are made with a smooth pattern because it is just made to hold constantly through the shift pattern..They got very warm..make that hot!!
Pic 3..Steels were in fair shape..will be replaced.
Pic 4..the top thick steel plate is fine..be used again after scotch pad is used on it
You have 2 snap rings in this clutch..1 to hold the friction steel stack in place and a wavy snap ring to hold the bellville spring and piston in..They are made very different from each other..
Pic 1..Wavy ring on the left..for the bellville spring..A bit of work to get it out and more work to get it back in later..Smooth ring on the right is to hold the clutch stack in place..
Pic 2..plastic spacer..they use to make them from steel..hard to find those..Plastic can melt..Mine checked out okay and will be reused.
Pic 3..Belleville spring..This is the weaker spring replaced in 1975 with a stronger spring..You must have the matching piston to the spring..The later spring uses a taller piston..
Piston and spring must go together
Pic 4..Once the spring is out, it becomes 2 pieces for the input shaft..Just look everything over for any wear
Pic 1..Backside of the piston..Check ball needs to rattle clean..That is the ball that bleeds the pressure off of the clutch when you shift from drive into park..If the ball is plugged. the clutch will be on still ..not good for the clutch..
Pic 2..Front of the piston..seals removed..they were hard and flat..not sealing well..What do you expect after 50 years?? :undecided:
Output planetary gear set..
Pic 1..Check the spline fit..they are known to strip out or loosen up..smooth tight fit needed..
Pic 2..splines are fine and sharp
Pic 3...back side of the annular ring..where the thrust washer is up against..Smooth and good..
Pic 4...Front thrust washer looks to need help..worn down good..
Pic 1..This is the other planetary gear set..Thrust washer on this needs to be replaced..Check the 4 planet gears for wear, looseness, anything that looks bad..
Other than the thrust washer, it is in good shape
Pic 2..Thrust washer between planets and ring gear..The racers will machine this area to accept a torrington bearing to eliminate the thrust washer for less friction..
There is so many things you can do on these transmissions..How much money do you have to spend?? :(
Pic 1..Stater support shaft..The stater is in the torque convertor..This support is splined..check the splines for wear...Also has the original factory seal with the Chrysler emblem stamped in it..Not bad for 50 years!!
Pic 2..The oil tells a story of the condition of it..A small amount of burning with the oil
Pic 3..Pump has a paper gasket and this rubber ring to seal it to the case..
Checking inside the pump gear area..
Pic 1..I think these little slits(shown in red) are for lubrication..
Pic 2..Gears..The inner gear has a bevel on the inside..Must be installed like this..Other side of this gear is flat..Need to check clearances with feeler gauges..Easy to find and replace if necessary..
Pic 3..Inside the area where the gears spin..Smooth and clean..I Like It!! :)clap
That is all for now..
Time to fix the blown out thread..this is 1 of 6 bolts that hold the tail housing on..I figured out how it got blown out..
Pic 1 shows the hole with the bad thread..3/8-16 size
Pic 2 Helicoil kit to fix it..Doesn't come with the drill bit needed..but everything else..
Pic 3 Shows the hole after drilling it out for the tap..
Pic 4 Put some grease on the end of the tap..taps easier and the cuttings will stick to the tap to clear out the hole..Still need to use compressed air to completely clear it all out..
Pic 1..Insert ready to be threaded in with the included tool.
Pic 2..After the install..These Helicoil kits really work well.
Pic 3...How it got blown out..?? The hole that was bad is the only that does not thread into the inner part of the case..In other words it has a bottom to it..
There are 2 different lengths of bolts for the 6 bolts..Someone screwed a long bolt into a short bottom hole.. and just kept torque it till it ripped the threads out..
I have one of the threaded holes for the pan to fix too..But it is 5/16..kit is on the way
Received my rebuilt torque convertor today :)clap
Company wanted the core back and sent a label to do it ..On it's way back to Florida!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193234410419
Pic 1..I bought this kit off Ebay All SAE sizes..1/4..5/16..3/8..7/16..1/2 sizes Has the drill bit, tap and inserts for all sizes..Bought it for the 5/16 size as one of my pan bolt threads was blown out..
Pic 2..Blown hole..No threads at all
Pic 3..After drilling with included drill bit and tap..Ready for the insert.
Pic 4..After the insert was inserted..Good or better than new..
I am still waiting on my kit..I am going all out on this rebuild..I will be doing plenty of hill climbing and I need a transmission that I can climb a tree with and not break a sweat..
Pic 1..At the rear of the case, inside, is the low reverse sprag ..It's job is to hold the rear drum from spinning counter clockwise..That is what is needed to create first gear(low)..Along with the forward drum to be locked up on the clutches..This sprag has to be strong on a super heavy motorhome starting from a dead stop..
Stock has 12 roller bearings and is pressed into the case..The picture shows where the sprag was after punching it out..
Pic 2..This is the original sprag on the bench..
Pic 3..Here is the rear support..It supports the output shaft as it passes through the case to the tail housing..It also holds the rear drum and sprag in place..
As the fluid comes back from the cooler, it dumps into the case right at all of this sprag and support..
The sprag can be slightly drill larger for its oil port and I made this slot all around the perimeter to get oil to do a better job of keeping everything wet with cool oil..
If your oil cooler quits and gets plugged up, it will destroy everything just mentioned..
Here is a great video on the function and replacement of the better sprag
Trans kit arrived :)clap :D
Pic 1..Rebuilt 2nd band and low reverse band(little one)
Pic 2..16 roller sprag..Bolted and pressed into the case..MUCH stronger..First gear needs to be strong to get you rolling..
Pic 3..Deep oil pan..I think it adds 3 quarts..Comes with a filter extension to reach the bottom of the pan..Using the original dip stick.
Pic 4 ..Full gasket kit
Pic 1..Full set of thrust washers..Also I high leverage lever for second gear..4.2 ratio..The stock one I have is 3.8..I have feeling that I will use the 3.8 again
Pic 2..Stud and nut kit for mounting the pan..No more striped threads :)clap and the heavy duty strut set up for the second gear band..
Pic 3..Full bushing set..I am not going to replace all of them..Problem is having the right bushing driver to install..
heavy duty clutches and steels..Came with 9 clutches and 8 steels..Should be able to add an extra clutch to the 3rd gear pack ..to have 5..up from 4..much more holding power
Time to start building it!!
You probably will but just in case, also go for a new torque converter.
I'm pretty convinced all the glitter I found was from the torque converter because all the gears and parts in the transmission after the filter looked brandnew and no sludge or metal particals whatsoever.
So I'm going to take it a little easier than you do. Thought about the deeper pan too but as everything looks fine it thought against it. I am going to add a pressure meter and temperature meter to the dash.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252461716451
Hi MLW,
I feel bad for showing this "E" word listing, but I couldn't beat it..That price has a 100 dollar core refundable on it..So total of 329..The convertor had a postage paid UPS label included in the box..
So I just boxed up the old one, slapped the label on and off it went..
Looking at the description of the rebuild and their feedback..Looked like a fair deal..
Back at post 15, i mentioned receiving it..Here is a repost of it side by side with the old one..
Oh Darn!! I just found out that my transmission is not original to the chassis..with a number of 5107 it was made on July 22 1975..Rebecca is a 73 D22..
https://maxwedge.com/articles/10k.php
Wait!! I made a mistake..The number to use is the 4228 on the side of the trans..That is the date number..Feb 23 1973..
The 5107 is the sequence number..Number 5107 of that days production
Now I am sure that it should be the original trans...I think it is!?! ???
(https://maxwedge.com/vindecoder/vin.php?vin=4228)
That will definitely make a difference when you take the motorhome to Pebble Beach. LOL
Quote from: Elandan2 on January 10, 2024, 07:39 AMThat will definitely make a difference when you take the motorhome to Pebble Beach. LOL
Yea!! I am going to have a custom plaque made to put on the outside stating that this motorhome has original number engine and trans in it..
That should impress the ladies on the beach when I roll up!! :cool: :laugh:
Here is a good picture showing the difference in the stock rear sprag and the new bolt in 16 roller sprag..
Old one on the left has 12 rollers and is just pressed in to the case
New one has 16 rollers and bolted and pressed into the case..
I want to be able to take a fully loaded motorhome and still pop a wheelie off the ground at a stop light!! :laugh: :rolleyes:
What???
You want to copy these guys????
Quote from: Mlw on January 10, 2024, 01:58 PMWhat???
You want to copy these guys????
No!! of course not!! :P
I really hate these type of videos involving these old classic units. There are so many people looking to reclaim and restore these, it is just a shame when they are destroyed like this..
All I am looking for is absolute rock hard durability..Where I live there is plenty of steep climbing to go anywhere..To go over to the coast..big hill to climb to get there..
My lady Rebecca will be pampered but she will be solid to get me anywhere I need to go!!
No wheelies..I promise.. :azn:
Quote from: RockwoodMike on January 10, 2024, 11:54 AMQuote from: Elandan2 on January 10, 2024, 07:39 AMThat will definitely make a difference when you take the motorhome to Pebble Beach. LOL
Yea!! I am going to have a custom plaque made to put on the outside stating that this motorhome has original number engine and trans in it..
That should impress the ladies on the beach when I roll up!! :cool: :laugh:
Oh, I thought with all the work you're putting into this rig, you'd be entering it into the concours...
Quote from: Elandan2 on January 10, 2024, 06:44 PMyou'd be entering it into the concours...
Does Concours have a division for motorhomes??..There is no chance for that on my Indian..
Because of the interior..I had the orange interior as shown in the pic..
Nobody makes the carpet any more..And the curtain fabric?? forget it..not a chance..
So I am going to go with the "Custom-Resto" look..
Now if you believe any of this besides the custom resto, I have a bridge in Florida, I need to talk to about..!! :laugh:
There are some things I am trying to keep original..Like the engine trans combo..
I have a Ford 460 EFI with a 4 speed overdrive trans (E4OD) that I was thinking of fitting into this project..
Decided not to..A Ford power train in a Dodge frame, would be just wrong..
Just kidding Mike. When I owned Dupree Products, we sold many Bluebird motorhome parts, many of them aftermarket pieces because the originals were no longer available. Some customers were adamant that they have the original part, even if it was some relay or switch or something no one was ever going to see. I used to kid that they had to keep it original so it could be entered at Pebble Beach.
Having been a former victim of HG tv for 30yrs I've modernized the rambler I'm working on. The rules well there are none other than what I prefer. Now that I'm footlosse and fancy free I'm not sure what I like. A totally new concept, but it seems I have a Scandinavian preference towards fashion.
Very odd 40 yr old RV and Scandinavian design :shocked:
QuoteI really hate these type of videos involving these old classic units. There are so many people looking to reclaim and restore these, it is just a shame when they are destroyed like this..
It was just an over exaggeration for laughs of course but I feel exactly the same. It's a real shame these guys really showed some craftmanship building it up and let it end it this way.
And as for that orange interior, I vwould have ripped that out even years ago, the designer must have at least been high at LSD at the moment. It's truly hideous.
Time to put this thing back together....
Need to install the heavy duty reverse sprag.
Pic 1..Here is the empty pocket the sprag fits in..The area in the center acts as a thrust washer. You can see the circle that the rear reverse drum spins on..
Pic 2..With some green scotch brite, I just polished that area to clean it up..If this area was all screwed up, Sonnax makes a thrust roller bearing that fits there after a machining to create a pocket to fit the thrust roller bearing..
I don't need that as mine is in good shape..
Pic 3..Back side of the new heavy duty sprag..That is the side that goes in first as the sprag is installed..
Pic 4..4 bolts that will draw the sprag into place..
Pic 1..Anti- seize on the threads of the bolts..It take some torque to draw the sprag into place..Lubes the threads to help it go together.
Pic 2..Assemble goo in the pocket to help draw it in
Pic 3..Starting the 4 bolts ..Make sure to draw it in evenly..1/4 turns as you go to each bolt to make it go in even..keep it straight!!
Pic 4..Here is the beginning of it being drawn in..
Here it is in place..Just be sure to keep it level and straight!!
I got i slightly off..tightened 1 bolt to much..If that happens, loosen that bolt and with a soft hammer, tap that bolt down..That will cause the sprag to reposition it self..
Go slow..Check it..Check it..and then Check it as you draw it in..
You will feel the bolts when they bottom the sprag in the case pocket..
Done!! And I am stressed out of my gourd!! !-!
At the rear of the case is the location for the oil from the cooler returns the oil..
Pic 1..shows the path of the oil going in..
Pic 2..This part is called the "Rear support" And it supports the out put shaft..the Governor..the rear low reverse drum..The oil goes to this hole and goes to lubrication of the total rear shaft area..
Pic 3..As the shaft is shown there is a hole that the oil goes into and then proceeds down the middle of the shaft to several other lube points..
Shows how important the cooler is..It provides oil to the whole rear half of the trans..
Pic 4..This is where the sealing rings of the governor seals to..Inside the rear support..You can see the wear marks where the rings are..
So!!!
Pic 1..The rear support goes in and is bolted to the rear sprag..through the case..
This make everything very solid...
I used some green scotch brite to clean and hone the area where the rings of the governor go..Allows the rings to seat to the support..Like a piston rings seats to a honed cylinder wall..
Pic 2..What is looks like from inside the case with the sprag and rear support installed..Gooped up with assemble goo
Next is the rear servo..rear band and band strut assembly..Also the rear drum that is clamped in manual low and reverse..
My head hurts!! :(
I have a very old 36 inch paper printer. It is a HP 650C. About 1994 vintage..It is made for designers and architects.
So I printed out the exploded view and the side view at a large size and stapled them to the wall..
You can't have enough "Data and Reference" in front of you..
Thanks to MLW for providing the files for this.
I bought some heavy bond paper (90 lb) and I am going to print out the ATSG manual also..Put it in a binder to use at each step of the build.
I just wish that I could send Marc (MLW) a print out like these on the wall.. Getting anything to Europe is next to impossible without costing big money..
The kit that I bought comes with a new billet reverse manual low servo..Very strong set up!!
This is the servo that squeezes the rear band..
Used when you select reverse..Also when you put the shift selector into low gear..Manual low.
In manual low, the sprag and the band is holding that low reverse drum..When you are climbing a steep grade, that gets you up the hill..
Pic 1..Comparison of the old servo to the new..
Pic 2..The top hat for the servo spring..Much stronger thicker steel..
Pic 3..Stronger spring too..
Pic 1..Lube up the bore and seal on the piston..
Pic 2..Piston in bore and spring next with top hat after that..
Pic 3..Used a HF 4 inch clamp and a small piece of wood..(what ever you might make work) to compress the top hat down..You can get your clip ring in place now.. Make sure clip is fully seated in groove..
Pic 1..Here is all the parts for the rear band..Take lots of pictures when you take your apart!! $@!#@!
I didn't do that and had a hard time figuring how it all went back together..
Pic 2..Pivot pin gets a new o ring from the kit.
Pic 3..Shows how the little strut goes in..This is the hardest part to install..Basically a screw driver (Flat blade) was used to shove it into place..That is all I can say about that..Read the manual!!
Pic 4..Another pic of the whole assemble in place..Take plenty of pictures of yours and study how it all goes together..
Pic 1..Low reverse drum goes in next..It splines into the sprag ( the thing that is now bolted in) inner ring..
Pic 2..Lube it up, especially the inner area..It spins on the rear support.
Pic 3..Installed in place..Once it slips down on to the splines of the sprag, there is no need to pull it back out..If you do you run a good chance of pulling the center sprag ring out with the drum..Causing all those rollers and springs in the sprag to go flying loose
Don't ask... $@!#@!
Pic 4..shows it in place..The drum should spin easy clockwise and instantly lock going counter clockwise..
Thank you for thinking of me my friend. It's great to see that you can still use an old fossil printer for this. And yes, it's near to impossible to get things from the USA without breaking the bank. I'm very glad i bought most stuff two years ago and even then prices were already UP !-!
I made an exploded version of my coach wiring by print out all the pages and stick them together with clear adhesive tape. It worked fantastic.
As for the band? Didn't you get the manual you advised me yourself? I don't have it with me, but I seem to remember there is an extended explaination how to put the band back in. I had quite some difficulty get it out because you don't want to break things.
A colleague of mine decided to stop working because his baby was crying and his wife couldn't handle it, so i'm working 7 days a week now untill we find somebody else so it is a little quiet around me again. Let's just hope we solve this soon.
Quote from: Mlw on January 17, 2024, 02:46 PMAs for the band? Didn't you get the manual you advised me yourself?
Yes I got the ATSG manual that you made available..But I tried to install the band and strut without..Just stupid I guess..
So after messing with..I actually had it completely backwards.. printed the 2 pages showing the install..
Then that night, I hard printed the whole service manual..Thanks Again on uploading the ATSG manual..
Here is the procedure to be sure the rear half of the transmission has enough end play or too much..
Pic 1..from the service manual..
Pic 2..All these parts with the sun gear..planet gears..thrust washers..Need to be stack up on the out put shaft to measure clearance..
Pic 3..I measured .030..right in the middle of where it needs to be..
Then when you use the new thrust washers, it needs t be check too..
:)clap :)clap :)clap
No it's not stupidity, it's just wanting to get the job done. I'm exactly the same ;)
And your welcome to the ATSG manual. Let me thank you for the manual of Tom Hands. It is awesome and has even some extra tips. I already told I wanted to add a pressure and temperature gauge for the transmission to the dash and the book explains exactly how to do it. With pictures which truly is an advantage over the ATSG manual.
Pic 1..This planetary gear rides inside this ring gear..That circular plate is the thrust washer...
Pic 2..And you can see what the thrust washer did to the aluminum housing..Kind of tore it up..
Pic 3..With some green scotch brite I was able to smooth it over..I think it will do..
Pic 1..The sun shell (That big bell) has 2 bushings in the middle of it..One is wider than the other. Here is the wide one..Pretty poor shape
Pic 2..The narrower one..It was even worse...I didn't want to but replacing them with the bushing that came with the kit was the thing to do..
Pic 3..Here is the 2 bad bushings next to the new ones..I just used a blunt punch on the edge of the bushing to lightly punch them out..
Pic 4..The empty hole..Used green scotch brite to smooth the bore..
Pic 1.Lube it up..The bore and the bushing..Then I just used the palm of my hand to start it..You can feel when it is in straight..Then it need to be lightly tapped in..You are not going to use your hand to punch it in..
Pic 2..Fully in..It is right at the level of that bevel in the gear..
Pic 3..The wide bushing side..Now that they are in the shaft just rotates butter smooth..
Pic 4..Here is the bushing driver of of Ebay..It is sized in metric and you just use what is the closest to the right size..
No heavy blows!! You are hitting the tool but a bunch of light blows instead of heavy blows..Takes longer, but is better to keep from damaging the bushing..
I didn't want to do this , but now that it is done, I am glad I did..
Pic 1..My kit came with a new set of thrust washers and washers for the end play..Could have used the old ones..But they did look a little tired..
Pic 2..The output shaft stacked with the rear planetary sets..thrust washers..
It is held on the shaft at the rear where it was checked for clearance earlier and the front circlip
Pic 1..Cleaning and checking the rear governor and parking gear..Notice the nice service manual open at the right page!! :)clap
Pic 2..New rings from the kit..All smeared with vast quantities of blue goo..
Pic 3..vast quantities of goo for the rear support..
Pic 1..The assembled rear shaft, just goes in from the front and slides all the way to the rear..be sure to engage the rear planetary lugs into the rear low reverse drum..You can miss that..I did..
Then install the governor..Slide it on the shaft to line up the hole on the shaft for the center pin for the governor..Make sure the circlip is installed right and tight.. Be careful with the rings..Gentle wiggle and push the governor to engage the rings into the bore..
Yoshimoshi (Youtube video showed what happens if that pin cuts loose)
Install the circlip on the out put shaft shown in the red arrow location..
Pic 2..How it looks from the middle..
Pic 3..How it looks from the front..
Quote from: Mlw on January 17, 2024, 08:36 PMNo it's not stupidity, it's just wanting to get the job done
Actually it is just being a full blooded Redneck..And as a proud Redneck, our motto is..
"We's need no stinking instruction!! Until it is so blasted screwed up,then we's do!!
Yea, I actually had to set everything down, come inside from the garage and print those 2 pages..After looking at the print, I said.."Oh that is how it goes in..DUH!!"
Quote from: Mlw on January 17, 2024, 02:46 PMA colleague of mine decided to stop working because his baby was crying and his wife couldn't handle it, so i'm working 7 days a week now untill we find somebody else so it is a little quiet around me again. Let's just hope we solve this soon.
How does this colleague plan to support financially his wife and baby without a job??
The wife will be crying even more, when they are evicted from their home because he has no job to pay the bills..
When the little circlip goes missing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204408525219
Working on the Direct clutch..This is used for 3rd gear or direct 1:1 ratio..This is also called the "Front" clutch for it's location in the trans..
This link for this press tool worked great..20 dollars free delivery..But it needs to be used in a press..being a hard plastic, it wont take the beating of a hammer..
Pic 1..Shows the tool ready for the press.
Pic 2..Installed..
Pic 3..Punched right out..Very light pressure pushed it right out.
Pic 4..Empty hole
Pic 1..Comparison of the old to new..New has a swirl cut in for better lube..
Pic 2..Blue Goo everything..Bore and bushing..Start it by hand to get it straight..
Pic 3..Pressing it home..
Pic 4..Done and Good..
Pic 1..Kit comes with all the seals..Lower middle 2 are the ones for this piston..
Pic 2..One of the seals fit on the middle..Lip fits downward..It is easy to roll the seal in upside down..Be sure it is in right..
Pic 3..Goo everywhere..A light pressing and wiggle of the piston and it pops right in..
Pic 1..Kit comes with new spring..I used the same amount as original..But I believe these springs are just a little bit heavier pressure..
Pic 2..Shows how the original install of the pressure plate for the springs was in the wrong location..I installed it correctly this time
Using this neat trick from a very good life time builder Richard Crich, I tried to do the same..Worked great..Paid 6 for the pressure plate and 12 for the case clip..free delivery..There are deals out there..Hunt them down..
Pic 1..Shows the stack for this clutch..I can get 6 frictions when there use to be 4..50% stronger
Pic 2..Checking the clearance of the stack..Need .015 play for each friction..
6*.015= .090..
Pic 3..Gauge says .095.. :)clap
Pic 4..This clearance was measured dry for the clutches..I will soak them over night..I think it just soaks the oil in but doesn't swell..
Check again tomorrow..
That is all..I hope someone is getting something from all this..Or at least enjoy watching??
Pic 1..Replacing the bushing that the torque convertor spins on.
Pic 2..From the same seller on Ebay, I bought the tool to press the old bushing out..Use it to put the new one in..Need to clean the pump first.
Pic 3 and 4..Filthy, filthy..Soda blaster time..
Pics 1 and 2..
After the soda blaster work. Then I use Simple green in a spray bottle and wash it down..Then compressed air to blow it dry.
CLEAN!! :grin:
Pic 1..Rebuilding the Forward clutch..This clutch is on in all forward gears..Where it gets it's name..
New seals from the kit and a new plastic spacer to replace the 50 year old one.
Pic 2.. Made a lip seal installer from a plastic cottage cheese container, cut to shape with a pair of scissors..The plastic is thin and slippery.. Popped the piston right in..Don't forget the vast quanities of blue goo :grin:
Pic 3..Fully assembled..need to stack the clutches on now..
Gotta paint the pump..makes it go faster!!
Pic 1..Engine primer
Pic 2..Ford Blue engine enamel..Ford blue on a Chrysler Trans??..It is the only color I had on the shelf.
Pic 1..High performance accumulator..Double sealed..
Pic 2..High performance 2nd gear band piston..both of these items are made by Sonnax.
Pic 3..Installed..That cherry red anodized color makes it go faster.. :grin:
Pic 1..New, old bushing with the plastic driver..Ready to install the new.
Pic 2..Press it in..
Pic 3..After the install..
Pic 4..Here it is on the inside..I didn't take a picture of the bushing after it was stacked at those 2 slots..That keeps it in place and holds it tight.
Pic 1..The gears were in great shape..Plenty of goo to lube them up..Ready to install the stater support..
Pic 2..After the install, install the sealing rings with more goo
Pic 3..All done..I wrapped it up in a plastic bag to keep it clean till install.
It is time for the Valve Body.. :(
You have to own the book..The one from Tom Hand..It is excellent :)clap
He has a full chapter with step by step tear down of it all..Read it carefully and you can't go wrong..
Here is 4 pictures before the tear down..I took lots of pictures of the tear down for my own use but I won't post them because the book is a much better way of doing this.
here it is after everything laid out..
Need to get a shift kit..Leaning towards the Transgo TF1..Summit has a good price..Here is the link..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-tf-1/make/chrysler
Cleaning the upper valve body..Soda blaster and then Simple Green in the sink with hot water..Blow dry with compressed air
Pic 1 and 2..Dirty :shocked:
Pic 3 and 4..Cleaned with the soda blaster..Before I cleaned it in the sink..
The soda method works great and will not tear up the casting..
Lower valve body ...
Pic 1 and 2..Dirty!
Pic 3 and 4..Clean!! :)clap
Transgo shift kit..TF 2 was the same price as the TF 1..
TF 1 is for RV firm solid shifting..
The TF 2 kit can be used to create the TF 1 install but can do the TF 2 install that creates Ground Pounding, Asphalt Smoking, Earthquake Making, Coffee Spilling,Window rattling...shifts..
I think I will go with the TF 1 install..I don't want my dishes in the upper cabinets to go flying out!!
Here is the quick details of all the shift kit involves..
Pic 1..You get a new shifter select spool..This is the spool that moves when you select park, reverse, neutral and all the forward gears..The old one on the bottom, new on top..
What it does is allows cooler oil to circulate through the transmission in the Park position..Originally that circulation comes to a stop in Park..
Then starts up again when any gear is selected..
New spool has the oil circulating at all positions..
Pic 2..This is the hole that spool goes into..If you look close you can see the individual position that the spool lines up to in each gear as you move the shift lever..
Pic 3..But there is the problem of this new spool..You have to cut this notch in the valve body with a file..If you don't do that , the spool will send oil to the rear band and cause it to partially engage..This slot causes that oil to bleed off..So no band engagement...
This is the modification that was the most difficult..But if done by the directions, it goes smoothly..You are drilling out a wall in the valve body at a precise location using a special plate jig and a drill bit..What this is for is to give the direct clutch more oil (I think it does, not sure actually)
Pictures show the results..
The divider plate gets 3 of it's holes opened up some..That is no problem..
Because you need to drill and file, you need to take the whole valve body apart..So you might as well do t like I did..Buy the book for the explanations and pictures..
Clean it good and have a nice shifting transmission,,
Pic 1..Here is the lay out for the check balls..
One big .375 sitting on top of a spring..Using the blue goo to hold it in place..
One size medium ball..About .310 size location shown in yellow
5 .25 size balls,,locations shown in red..
Pic 2..Completed valve body..
Here is the bottom line..You don't need to take the trans out..BUT,,you will need to disassemble this valve body completely..
2 reasons..It will be filthy ..You have to take it apart to clean all the passages that have filled with clutch dust
And you need to enlarge holes in the divider plate..File a slot in the side of the valve body..Drill out a passage in another place..And it all needs to be flushed all out totally clean..
It is not just a quick spring change out..
You need a good size table top to lay out all the parts..
And TAKE LOTS of PICTURES..before after shots..showing views as you pull it apart..
And just go slow and loaded up on caffeine so much so.. :laugh:
Using the same trick for the Direct (front) clutch for adding extra clutches, I am going to add 1 more clutch to the forward ( called "forward" because it is on in all 3 forward gears but is also called the "Rear" clutch because of it's location in the trans)
Normally has 4 clutches but can now add 1 more..25% increase in holding power..
When you are going up a 7% grade for the next 15 miles and then down that same grade, having extra strength will be nice to have..
Pic1..Forward clutch all built up ..It now has 5 clutches where there use to be 4..
This clutch is on in all forward gears..Off in Park Reverse Neutral..
Pic 2 Direct Drum all built up..It now has 6 clutches,,before only had 4..
This clutch is on in High gear and reverse..
Pic 3..Direct..forward.. and pump ready to go in..
This is the action of the forward clutch when it is applied..
Pic 1 shows it in neutral
Pic 2 shows when it is applied with my compressed air testing..It clamps all those clutches together tight..Without this all forward gears are off
Pic 1..Thrust washer installed and the 2 sealing rings..All gooed up
Pic 2..You have to wiggle it and twist to get all the clutches to fall into place..This pic shows it not fully installed..
Pic 3..After plenty of wiggle and twist it finally falls in place..This is how it looks fully seated..
Pic 1..Installed ready for the direct clutch to go on top of the forward that was just installed..
Pic 2..Setting the direct in..Somewhat difficult to line all the clutches in..Lots of wiggle and twisting
Pic 3..It engages the tabs into these slots..But deeper than this..Needs to go in further..
Pic 4..fully seated in as shown
Pic 1..As seen from the front..2 guide pins made from 5/16 bolts with the heads cut off..Lines up the pump as you install it
Pic 2..Pump slid right on..Install the gasket (makes a difference in end play..)
install 2 bolts to tighten the pump to the case..Time to check in play..
About 60 thousand end play..
Pic 1 and 2..How it looks with all play moved forward and then back..
Pic 3..Pump installed and torqued down..
Both band levers installed and adjusted..
Next is the valve body and tail housing :)clap
Pic 1..New seal for the selector shaft..in the kit.
Pic 2..Selector shaft polished up with green Scotchbrite..
Pic 3..Easy to drop in..guide the parking rod shaft in towards the tail shaft..down over the seal for the selector shaft..10 bolts tighten down to book specs..( I can't remember what the torque was but it is in Inch pounds)
Pic 4..Neutral safety switch installed..
Pic 1..It will have a deep pan, so an extension for the filter is needed..
Pic 2..How it sits on the valve body..
Pic 3..Filter and extension screwed down ..
Pic 1..Old pan not very deep
Pic 2..New pan. much deeper..About 2 quarts added to volume..So the filter will be totally submerged..
Use the original dip stick for oil level.
Pic 3..Comes with studs and nuts..No more stripped out threads.
Pic 1..Each stud has a recess cut in the pan to locate the nut to the pan..
Pic 2..Pan with nuts on and torqued..This should add strength to the whole transmission..
Pic 3..Rolled over in place..Roll it away from the neutral safety switch..You could damage it otherwise..
I can't install the tail shaft just yet because...
because the kit has the slip in yolk seal..Different than the seal needed for the bolt on yolk..
Bolt on seal is smaller outside and inner diameter..On order..Until it gets here the tail shaft housing will wait..
That is all..
All Done..Tail housing with the new rear seal fully installed.. :)clap
I know there is probable not to many members doing something like this but..
Any Questions on any of this??
Questions absolutely not! Only a time honored attitude towards tranny rebuilders..."priceless" ;)
I chuckled when I first opened this post....your tear down bench is brilliant that isnt why I chuckled. You mentioned you used cardboard to act as a type of sponge "in case there was a transmission fluid leak of some kind".....I cant open a transmission quart container without having a clean up of some kind...lol...
This post was an excellent one so many nice pictures and details. I almost think I could do mine by looking at what you did if it there was a need