Recent posts

#41
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: BRAKE PROBLEMS
Last post by johnfrederick - April 21, 2024, 08:13 AM
Thanks, Mike. This project started when I pressed on the brakes and the pedal went almost to the floor and the light came on. It recovered quickly, the light went out and has not happened again since.

Being concerned I started to check things out. I began by bleeding the brakes.

So, here is where I am at. The back brakes are bleed starting with the passenger side then driver's side. After bleeding the back, I started the engine to turn the steering wheel to place the front passenger side in position to bleed. No fluid would come out. Air? or fluid? shot out of the master cylinder. As they have easily bled in the past, I am hoping that it is something simple.

Thankfully, I have plenty of pedal. My plan is to put the rear back together and move on. If I end up not having front brakes it will let me know.

I am not sure if this classic has hydro boost or not. Anyone happen to know?

Appreciate any feedback!

Thanks, John


 

#42
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 21, 2024, 12:30 AM
The windshield must be in place, held with clamps, to make the rest of the eyebrow structure..The eyebrow locks into the top channel of the windshield frame..

This is a ton of work..And I am doing it all by myself..
#43
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 21, 2024, 12:27 AM
Working on the front eyebrow some more..4 sections to make this shape..

Pic 1..Section 1 and 2

Pic 2..The droop over piece..That was not an easy piece to make!!

Pic 3..from the inside
#44
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: BRAKE PROBLEMS
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 20, 2024, 06:36 PM
https://classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=9126.0

Take a look at what DaveVA78Chieftain posted way back when in the initial post of this thread..

The Chevrolet/GMC Combination Valve..It's job is to shut off 1/2 half of your brake system..front or rear..if you have a major failure..broken line..blown wheel cylinder..etc..

But it can create the problem you are having when bleeding brakes..When you open the bleeder valve, it causes this combination valve to shift towards the side you are bleeding..creates a problem in other words..

Solution is "centering" the valve so brake fluid flows normally..If it shifts to one side, that 1 side can't operate properly..

From what I understand, when you first turn the ignition on, it test the light on the dash "Brakes" then is suppose to go out after starting the engine..Is this light still on when engine is running??

If it is then that Combination Valve is activated (shifted) and that is the problem..

#45
Chevy - GMC Chassis / BRAKE PROBLEMS
Last post by johnfrederick - April 20, 2024, 04:49 PM
Greetings all. I am trying to bleed brakes on my 84 Chieftain P-30 chassis, 23 RG. After trying everything I ended up having to remove the rear tires and hubs to get to the bleeders. I finally was able to bleed the rear brakes the old way with a friend pumping the brakes.

On the front I had previously installed new calipers and bleed then without any trouble. However, this time I couldn't get any fluid to come out of the bleeders. Then I discovered that when the brake pedal was pushed fluid blew out of the top of the open master cylinder. 

I can't figure out what is going on. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Thanks, John

PS, I've owned two of the pump kits for bleeding brakes. Both broke before the jobs were finished.

 
#46
Coach / 1978 chieftain 26ft furnace?
Last post by 78chief - April 20, 2024, 10:31 AM
Can anyone tell me what furnace would have come in my 78 chieftain? The previous owner removed it since it was a southern rv and living in mn and camping spring and fall I'm going to add one. And I thought it would be interesting the know what came from factory so I could look up the btu heat output and use that as a guid for the size I put in now. Any advice welcome. Thansk mike
#47
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 17, 2024, 10:09 PM
#48
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 16, 2024, 10:55 PM
All done..just need to install seals and pistons
#49
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 16, 2024, 10:53 PM
Quote from: Eyez Open on April 16, 2024, 01:10 AMAre you going to hone those cylinders out?

No..You are not suppose to do that..With moisture in the brake fluid, it will cause pits in the walls of the open bore..But if you hone the bore you make it bigger possible causing the piston to seize because it tilts in the larger bore..

The seal is the piston and the square cut o ring..If the piston has pits in it, then you will need to find a new piston..Simpler to find a rebuild..

My pistons are very smooth..A little 3M scotch bright and they cleaned right up..

Quote from: Eyez Open on April 16, 2024, 01:10 AMlittle paint

Paint!! Paint??  It's powder coat or nothing!! :grin:

After sand blasting, then into the sink with Simple Green to wash dust and grit away..Blow dry and then into the oven to burn out any oils or moisture out..400 degrees for an hour or so..

Let them cool down..And it's time for powder!!

Mechanical engineering states that anything made in Red will be more powerful..go faster..have more duration and with brake calipers, make you stop faster!! ;)  :laugh:

So I have a color called Blood Red..Here are the pictures..

Pic 1..Hung up and ready to powder..

Pic 2..Powdered..

Pic 3..Out of the oven..400 degrees..1 hour


 
#50
Chevy - GMC Chassis / Re: ALDL data
Last post by udidwht - April 16, 2024, 03:32 PM
Quote from: Eyez Open on April 24, 2023, 12:19 AMYour advance is great at 2650 rpm...I'm shocked GM got that aggressive.. actually for GM that is aggressive.

Your temp is quite high for my tastes, 170/185 tops under most conditions. Bear in mind that is my opinion only a few things about temperature. Readings taken near the exhaust port will run 8/10 higher than temps taken from the intake manifold.

The aggressive advance is while at a 'part throttle' condition. Load = throttle position

One can get best MPGs with an AFR of 15-16 at part throttle but it requires added timing from the advance. No lean tuning with a centrifugal only distributor. The added advance combined with leaner condition (at part throttle) will also be cooler running.