Hello,
I may need a new old MH, after my roof blow of in storm: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11271.0.html (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,11271.0.html)
I'm searching for ideas what next, if the insurance pays and totals it.
My wife and I developed a wish list during our 6 weeks trip through the country. (http://www.horseback-america.com/ (http://www.horseback-america.com/))
Must:
- Class A with big Windshields, love the view
- shorter then the 29 feet we had
- powerful engine
- towing capacity 6000lbs (Horsetrailer)
Nice to have:
- solid bed
- Diesel
- better fuel mileage then 7mpg
Budget will be hopefully the $5000 I got in the old one.
We are no full-timers and don't carry a lot of stuff. But we are heavy since we carry feed and water for the horses.
Here is what I found:
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/rvs/5091850402.html (http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/rvs/5091850402.html)
23 feet Brave, with 6.2 Diesel, but this engine seems kinda powerless.
You do NOT want anything with the 6.2/6.5 in it. Those engines are powerless. Unless you get a really good deal on a really great body with a blown engine and want to put in a Cummins diesel. My Ford pick-up is literally falling apart but the Powerstroke 7.3 still runs like a bear. I have thought about a transplant, A lot of work though since all the electronics have to go with the engine. Plus the rear would need to be changed to a higher ratio. It all depends on the amount of work you want to do but finding a turn key diesel at that price is going to be real hard.
I looked at the picture of that one and it looks nice. I should not totally condemn the 6.2 because they can be made to run good but it takes money. You would have to turbocharge it.
I agree on the 6.2 with rick. There are some "good" ones, and a lot of "bad" ones...None of which have a lot of HP's. 5k is not going to buy you a diesel. Unless you find something with 200k plus miles, and in need of bunch a work.
Im glad you got the insurance co to pay for the damages!!!! ;)
I did like my TBI 454, plenty of power, only in the mountains I had my problems.
I would go for a TBI again. So the layout of the 23ft seems very neat, but I couldn't find any towing specs...
Not 100% sure that the insurance really pays yet. Two days ago I did talk with a manager and it seemed like he did understand and valued my concerns he just wanted to check with another person before he processes further.
Today another guy from the insurance called me and tells me the same nonsense which the first adjuster told me, because of which I escalated the claim to the manager.
This would be a dream:
25ft Blue Bird, Diesel:
http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1999-Blue-Bird-Baby-Bird-114969363 (http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1999-Blue-Bird-Baby-Bird-114969363)
way to expensive but exactly what I'm looking for.
Well, you don't have to fret over it, it is already sold! I went to the website to see what engine it had and it is stamped SOLD. As soon as I saw "Bluebird" I knew you would be in heaven. :D I want a Bluebird pusher.
I'm a diesel fan, but have no concerns where the engine is.
Just had been toying with the idea of getting a Schoolbus and doing a conversion, but seems like much more pricey project then getting an old RV.
WELL! I've always wanted to do over a Highway Coach. There are may things to take into consideration though. Size is one. Where are you going to put it/store it. When your out on the road where are you going to park it? Driving it in the city it will be a hand full. There are some nice used city buses out there that would be fantastic for a conversion. It wouldn't happen over night and I expect it would be a long project. However you can do a little at a time. While your converting it you could still take it out on trips while you were fixing it up. Now not to rain on your parade but, if you figure in the cost of buying the coach plus all the things you'll need to do the conversion, maybe you should consider something along this lines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Foretravel-40-Unihome-350-Turbo-Diesel-Pusher-w-air-ride-suspension-/161744988234?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25a8c0a84a&item=161744988234
I have seen that one before and drooled over it but think about it, 40 feet long and all the luxuries and only a single axle! That has got to be maxed out on weight. Then again, I think the Foretravel was built on a cement mixer chassis so the axle would be a heavy truck axle.
yeah don't want something that huge. I've got a couple acres farm land down here so no storage issue. and hate citys so always drive arround.
I really want something short, the places we go with the horses are usually in the woods with narrow dirt roads.
we had been on the road for 6 weeks, and didn't use half of the stuff we packed in our 29ft. But had a couple of situations where it had been pretty close to stuck.
we are towing a 18ft horse trailer.
is there no ford or cummins diesel Mh from the 80s or 90 s?
We have a 1993 22 ft Winn. Warrior. with 454 TBI. Pulling a 2000lb car with supplies we get in the 9.5-10.5 mpg range. This unit was light enough that they installed the 4:10 rear and it has the overdrive transmission.
Something like this may fill you bill except for a few things. No large common bed. Also this was their Price model so they cut a lot of corners such as the floors have nothing but OSB and covering. Really look for water damage. They made a bed in the rear variant that engineer bill of this site has which makes a little more sense but they are really rare.
Another thing about this unit that I like is that with this short unit the hitch can actually bolt to the vehicle frame instead of any extensions.
kattkisson:
sounds like a great idea ! Thank you, googled around and found one:
http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1991-Winnebago-Warrior-23-115055858 (http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1991-Winnebago-Warrior-23-115055858)
P30 chassis, can anybody tell me the wheel size on this thing ?
I had to reeinforce the frame extension at 29ft P30. So a shorty would make absolutely sens.
As long I can clean the floor I don't care what it is :P
We've got a farm, everything is dirty/dusty all the time. That's just how it is.
Edit:
also the Chieftain had a short model:
http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1985-Winnebago-CHIEFTAIN-22RC-114706044 (http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1985-Winnebago-CHIEFTAIN-22RC-114706044)
beautiful staged like on HGTV :P
but I'm not sure if a Carburated 454 had the power to tow my Trailer. I'm only 30 everything what had been built in my lifetime has some kind of injection :P
just to restate my floor concerns. OSB board stands for oriented strand board . It cannot stand water/ It swells up and then rots--- quickly, Winnebago got in trouble about this and went to a different floor in a short time. Point --look for signs of leaks and firmness of floor, I had to end up fiberglassing mine .
Do not worry about the power issue of a carbureted engine as opposed to a TBI engine, the power difference is negligible. Gas mileage will be a bit better on the injected engine since they do tend to be more efficient. I would wonder about the load with an overdrive tranny and 4:11 gears. You would probably be running in third a lot in the hills. The nice part of that transmission is that it is a lock-up convertor. That will lower the trans temps substantially and give better mileage also. You want the engine in the 2500 to 2800 rpm range in the hills which would not be a problem with that combo. The GM 4 speed auto has a low fist gear which is nice for getting going and is a good match for the 4:11 gears. You can always upgrade to injection on a carbureted engine with stock parts from a junk yard or you can go one better and got with port injection from aftermarket. That is a bit pricey though. The port injection will give you some serious power increase.
Careful with one with 90,000 on it. Make sure you go over the engine very well since these engines have to work extra hard. I can bet it at the least needs a timing chain but the way they describe it would worry me. "in great shape, sold as is, cash only" . That to me is a red flag.
I wouldn't even have to go to a junk yard i still own a fully functional Mh with 454 tbi. which waits for taking apart or repair.
thanks katt I will watch out for soft floors. My 94 winnebago had metal/insulation/luan sandwich floors.
found something a 77 Itasca
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/rvs/5082855300.html (http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/rvs/5082855300.html)
I am NOT going to comment on the pole! I'm not, I'm not, I am biting my tongue! W% :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
On the serious side it could be there to support the roof.
lol guys, I don't know these old thing and had been thinking this is is supposed to look like.
there had been a lot of weird design made in the 70s.
You know I was just kidding, I am sure it is there to delineate the edge of the counter. Plus there is not much room for "maneuvering" on that counter. ;) W% :D
Rick. I have to ask. How do you know that there isn't enough room for "maneuvering"? Hm?
And I will ask back, are you that flexible? Touche'. :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao
Quote from: oldrockandroller on July 07, 2015, 12:54 PM
On the serious side it could be there to support the roof.
You, serious? ??? W%
To do what?
Oh no, You are not getting me to answer that one young lady. :D
I have no idea of what you are talking about......really.....oh hell :)rotflmao
You are the same age as me and I KNOW you are not naive. I have followed your conversations on the gear box long enough to know. ;) W% W% I am just waiting for the youngster that started the thread to chime in if we haven't scared him off.
Exodus, I think it was Xcreek that posted a reply but I saw it on a different thread (he posted it on the wrong thread) but he mentioned looking at older Wanderlodges. They would be a good fit for what you are doing since they are bus based and are heavy duty. Problem is they tend to be pricey unless you get a fixer upper.
I like the last one. The southwind. :)clap
The Southwind does look nice.
thanks a lot !
the Southwind does indeed look nices. It has twin beds, and I don't know if we would like that. Also I'm a little afraid of 33 feet, since it seems like they got a lot of rear overhang.
I like the Mallard more, but don't know how it look likes inside.
Very interesting that short Class A are in such short supply :P
Okey I have to get used to the idea that I a short RV is going to be a long shot and that longer RVs are more readily available.
I'm also now sure that I'm mostly concerned about rear overhang, frame extension, and weight then the actual total length.
Just did read about that the P30 chassis with 16500 has a much longer wheelbase (up to 228 inch ) then my 14800 Chassis (178 inch) and so there could be Motorhomes with less frame extension as even my 29ft. (2ft extension)
The trailer hitches and consequently the extension strength was mainly designed for towing a toad. Very little to no tongue weight and not a whole lot of towed weight. They were never designed to tow large trailers. Especially trailers with living things in them. Being a former horse owner and the fact I still love horses I treat them the same as humans, just like my dogs. I would want to be damn sure without a doubt that there was no chance that trailer was ever coming loose. The left side of the frame on mine could be reinforced with no real problem if the gas tank was out but the right side has a compartment intersecting the frame rail so they cut the rail and put in a engineered section of top and bottom sections with 90 degree angles and piss poor welds. That whole section would have to come out and a real section of frame inserted and reinforced put in. This would pretty much eliminate that 3/4 width compartment.
When I was in the Market for my last MH the first things I did when I visited a for sell RV:
Going to the back, crawled under the thing and checked the frame and the hitch. Before I took the first look inside.
At some I didn't even go inside after seeing the underside :P
Inside you can fix everything, but you can not fix stupid design underneath. Maybe you can do it Rick, but I would never trust it :P with my Family on board.
I'm not that heavy, 5500lbs trailer with 400lbs on the hitch. Some people carry heavier stuff in their rear compartments, which I did leave mostly empty.
I don't see an issue when the overhang from the rear axle is not long. It's all about angle and weight distribution.
The Newer MH have the frame about 6-10 inches higher from the ground, so the hitch has come way down. This would give an angle when the trailer is pushing, which has do cause trouble.
At the 94 P30 the hitch is pretty much level with the frame. only 2 inches down or so. So every movement back or for is not bending the frame.
I'm thinking that the weight on the hitch is not causing any problems as long the frame is not overloaded. The trailer is fixed connected, there is no bouncing or anything.
Braking and bad roads are the frame killers, Here bounces everything, but it wouldn't matter if you got a 400lbs motorcycle at your hitch or a trailer.
Here is another option that I have looked at for both my RV and my slide in since both have long overhangs. Pricey but good idea. This gives you NO weight on the hitch and it has it's own brakes plus the trailer brakes.
http://www.trailertoad.com/ (http://www.trailertoad.com/)