Photos of Roof Repair & Replacement

Started by The_Handier_Man1, November 11, 2008, 08:32 PM

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ok started to pull the roof off and now i see exactly whats there. i had thought there wa a piece of wood on top of the wall that i could screw the trusses down to. That's not the case!. I looked at those pics again and see how you put 1x2s in between the trusses. how did you screw them together? I can see doing the one end before the next board goes in but then what?


Brian: I (for some reason) wanted the edge of the top layer of my roof to be more or less even with where it was, and that meant leaving room for the 1/2 inch cdx, and subtracting for the thickness of the 2x2 ring underneath. So I think mine came out to around 3/4 on the end. Either I goofed or my math was off, because it's still slightly higher then the top of the wall.



Go curved/arched.  Even a 1/2 inch rise in center will facilitate water runoff, and we know how water wants to go down  :) .  Better down and to the OUTside than down to the inside.

In my area Lowes has some beautiful clear pine (not the stuff in the shelving area).  Stable, straight, and light weight.  Chemicals have come a LONG way since a 73 Brave was built, and you can turn that pine into something that sure the heck will outlive you with the sealers and glues available today.
"Anything given sufficient propulsion will fly!  Rule one!  Maintain propulsion"

"I say we nuke the site from orbit.  It's the only way to be sure"


That's a good idea going 12" on center. It would only add a couple 2x4's and would help with stiffening the roof. If I remember correctly, I think I went with 1 1/4 at the end because that's how much room I had left to the top of the sidewall. I had gone in and replaced the 2x2 perimeter plate that sits on top of the styrofoam in the sidewall.


I did something very similar to Brian, based on the Handier Man repair. I took 2x4s, left the center 18 inches flat, then tapered them down. Mine were less then 1 1/4 though, because the total space above my wall was about that. So my tapered down to a little more then half an inch. They were spaced 16 inches, though I wish I had done 12.  I then cribbed the 2x4s together.

I used plastic shower board for my internal ceiling, and i slid it under the 2x4 frame work before screwing it to the framework. I then sealed all around the interior of the framework with urethane foam and filled the cavities with foil backed styrofoam insulation. I then used 1/2 inch CDX decking for the top layer, and eternabond taped the seams and perimeter before coating the whole rooftop in more then 5 gallons of liquid epdm.

Fiberglassing would be better then the eternabond tape, and a true EPDM roof or aluminum cover or both would be better then the liquid I used. That being said, we are going on two years and I haven't had a problem with it.

If an when I have to do it again though, I have an idea to use stop sign posts or similar and build the frame structure out of that. I could then put cdx decking over it, flip it over, cut foam insulation to fit, and then paneling or whatever for the interior ceiling. Then fiberglass and an aluminum roof cover. on the top.


The pics didn't look very well, maybe cause they were hi-def and the system reduces it? I don't know.

Anyways, they are on 16" centers. They are  2x4's that taper to 1 1/4. I did leave the center 16" flat, so the angle doesn't start right on the centerline. I wanted it that way so I was putting the vent and (more importantly) the A/C on a flat and not the center point of 2 angled surfaces. The bath vent is on the angle and it works fine. The front 3 frames I gradually reduced the overall height to help blend better. Again, I think I got that from Handier Man's write up. Can't remember if I changed the angles was a couple years ago now. 

Steel would work if it is strong enough. Remember to watch the weight of your roof. You want it as light as possible so you're not exceding the GVW.
I originally was just going to use the 5mm (1/4"). But when I walked on it, it flexed way too much. So rather than returning the plywood and getting 1/2" (it was delivered and I don't have truck),  I just doubled up on it and it made it much stiffer. The fiberglass helped too. I can feel a little give  when I walk up there, but nothing bad.  Again, take some 2x4x8's, put them on the ground 16" apart. Throw a piece of 1/4" ext. plywood on it and walk on it. See what feels acceptable.  You're probably only going to go up there to do maintenance anyway.


im not opposed to using wood at all! whatever is best and easiest!


that looks great! my 95 winnebago has a curved roof and ive walked all over it. 2 questions, how close together did you put the truss pieces and how does it blend in the front being it was flat and its going to a curve? i see the back in your pic and it looks awesome!


 I got my inspiration from the Handier Man.,10111.msg57260.html

I fiberglassed over 2 layers of 5mm ply. I used epoxy resin and 8 oz. cloth. If you are going to re-roof, it really makes sense to curve it. A flat roof is just an invitation to leak. Winnebago finally started to curve their roofs in the late 80's -early 90's, I think.

Take an 8' piece of your 1x1 steel tubing and put each end on a block of wood or whatever. Try walking on the tubing. See how much it flexes-especially if it is 1/16 or 1/8 wall.


I really like what he did there but im not sure i want the curved look on the roof. i really cannot find any pics of a roof replacement done flat though. there doesnt seem to be much there for a roof to begin with and having trusses seems like a great idea. I was thinking even steel 1x1 box tubing . im a fabricator so metal is easier for me than wood anyway. i havent seen anybody using fiberglass on the outside either. Wonder why?  My 1995 winnebago brave has a fiberglass roof. I think that would definatly be the best for the outside.  I would love to be able to walk up there when it was done


That's the problem with old posts with off-site images.  They change, the poster no longer uses the site and the account is deleted, etc. etc.   But, there's still a LOT of useful information in the content of the topic.

1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca


hi im matt  im going to cut my winne up

Lima, Ohio 45807



ibdilbert01, where did you get the epdm and did you glue it directly to the wood roof? I recently finished up my wood roof replacement and have just used white snowcoat roofing as of right now but have thought about going with the epdm ontop of it, as now would be the perfect time to do it because I have no vent holes or a/c unit on yet.


Nice work!  I wish I had known about this site before I replaced the roof on my 74 Chieftan last fall.  Took a weeks vacation and my Dad and I tore into it without really researching anything.  I just joined so not sure how to add links to my album that shows some pics of my roof redo.  I will try to add a picture or link.;sa=album;id=511



One last question.

Are there any detailed pics of the front?  What did ya do under the "flap" section?

Thanks Again,


Sweet.... take good pix and thorough notes to share an put it on the Projects board!

:)   :)ThmbUp
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca


Went to the camper today and was able to take some measurements. 

Span - 7 feet 9 1/2 inches

Front curve to rear - 24 feet 10 1/2 inches

Your guys's roofs look great, lets hope mine turns out half as nice.

I'll start a new thread soon as I get things rolling.

Thanks again,



This is the beauty of working on classic RVs - when it comes to coach work, you don't have to be fancy, you don't have to be a skilled carpenter, and your work doesn't have to be perfect to achieve the desired results!
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca


2x4s were used for the trusses.    They are cut to look like an arch.   I just used a saber saw.     The ends are 3/4 inch, the centers are the full height of the 2x4.     To make a tapered/dome affect to the roof, the last truss from the ends are only 2 inches high.    For the top, I used 1/4 plywood, it formed nice and is light.    Then I glued rubber EDPM on top.     I used carpet glue, because I'm cheap, I also glued Styrofoam to the backside for insulation. 

(Later I replaced the black EDPM with WHITE, the black got rather hot in the sun and was hard to keep the RV cool inside. )

Constipated People Don't Give a crap!


This post is a bit old but I have a couple questions.  (If ya remember)  :D

First:  How wide are the trusses?

Second: How high are they at the edge? (I swear I saw this someplace but I searched for an hr and can't find it.)

I' just purchased 74 Chieftain that could use a new roof. I plan on using a CNC router to cut out the trusses from 1/2 in ply and sandwich  them together (3 thick i suppose). 

I'd climb up and check myself but the RV is not accessable at the moment and I want to get a few ideas pounded out.  I also want to have everything ready before I start tearing things apart. 

I'll start a new post about the project if anyone is interested (maybe even share files).


Wayfarer Malang

I love you post some time i want to give my roof a more round look like the sheep wagons and put solar panels and add a more permeant sleeping space above the drivers compartment. I have ideas but I have no idea how like the round things  I have  never built any thing. I am figuring out the wiring so there my be hope..
So any Ideas how to make round thingys for the roof...


I too copied Les's roof design, except I put rubber roofing on top.   Going on 4 years no leaks, actually it would be pretty hard for it to leak.  (knock on virtual wood)

And on the next winnie, rotten roof or not, it'll be getting the same roof replacement. :D
Constipated People Don't Give a crap!


My roof still looks great.  Of course I park mine in the garage when not using it.  A nice thing about the roofing I used was when I replaced roof vents I just cut out the old vents and sealed over the new ones with the same roofing.  Some members really like the rubber sheet roofing or using aluminum.  I would use the same stuff again if I get another classic with a rotten roof.  Hope that helps.   Les