TripleJ. The tank on the HR is a #^%$ to drop. I was only able to drop it a few inches, but that was enough to get at the connections on the top of the tank. I cleaned them up and tightened them, now my gas gauge works. Here are a few pics of the top of the tank.
The left connector had already come loose.
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1282.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa531%2Fcoachmanm500%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2FIMG_20130708_161414_704_zps167ac4bb.jpg&hash=66dacffaaba97aa39ebb3c4fe3520c04cb561615)
I took the other connector off after making sure I had the other wire available as well.
I made sure to re-crimp the spade and shovel connector so it would fit snugly.
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I then cleaned ALL the connectors with a brass wire brush.
Here is a Ring connector just before cleaning.
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I also cleaned the bolt and nut used to hold this in place.
Everything all cleaned and connected back up.
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Notice the odd-duck screw? I did NOT do that. After I finished this all up and put the tank back up (that also was a #$%^$) I put what gas I SIPHONED out (no petcock valve for draining on these things) back in and drove to the gas station across from where I was parked and put about another 18 gallons in her.
The gas gauge showed the good news. It was working again..
Awsome pictures, Its always nice to know what youll see ahead of time. Hopefully mine is only bad connections as well.
Other than its size, what made it difficult to drop?
Nice fix and write up.. I was just there last week installing my 60gal tank. I did it by my self with the help of some cribbing, a 3' pry bar and a floor jack.
I started out by lifting one end of the tank with the pry bar and wedging cribbing under the tank. Once I got it high enough I ran the jack under it. I jacked one end up to where the tanks end attachment to the crossmember bolt holes are. I placed both bolts loosely with nuts then pushed the jack forward and easily raised the tank in place with the jack.
If anyone attempts this, double check fuel lines and sending unit loom as they would be easy to pinch.
There is only 3/4" of space between the tank and frame rail where the vent line and fill line attach. I found that loosening the hose clamps at the hard pipe then the clamps at the tank made for easy but tight working.
I really should do a full write up to explain what I had to deal with and why I did not go all the way down.
If I remember right, I believe there was a 2" solid metal bar that got in the way. I'll take some pics and post soon.
My fuel gauge hasn't worked since I've had it and I took the ring connector off and put a new one on there then wire brushed the whole area. I didn't see another wire Hm? . I need to look for that. I'm going to cheat and use the inspection camera because you know there's just not enough drop to look but you can get your hand in there. Good job on fixing it and maybe I'll get mine to read FULL and stay there :)rotflmao .
Those inspection cams are great. Ive used mine several time where my fat head wouldnt fit. :)
I still think I'm the only person here with rust and paint coming off of the frame. LOOK HOW CLEAN THAT THING IS :'( . One day soon I will pressure wash it after I bleed the brakes tomorrow and hopefully drive it safely somewhere to clean. If my tab is broken off of the sending unit top, can't I just undo one of the bolts and but a grounding wire there?
"If my tab is broken off of the sending unit top, can't I just undo one of the bolts and but a grounding wire there?"
Don't see why not...
Spade lug is a convenience feature not a requirement. It only allows you to disconnect the wire easily when dropping the tank. You can use a lug if you so desire as long as you can get a tool in there to install or remove the screw.
Dave
Do the ground wire the easy way Clean a spot anywhere on the edge of the tank that is accessable and fasten a wire with a small C clamp Run the wire to a clean ground connection Done ! Frank
That can work, but be aware if the 5 bolts holding the sending unit are corroded, it may not provide a great ground. The sending unit is insulated from the tank body by the gasket. Thats why there is a direct connection on the sender itself.
Concerning that screw, maybe these pictures will explain why it's there.
Dan
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi903.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac232%2FQuietWater%2Ffuel%2520line%2FsenderGasket-2_zps55eb6059.jpg&hash=98dc6529e637874b345452707862f5c6400f120e)
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Dan, THANK YOU, I thought the PO had done that on my tank..
I am sooo glad I did not try to take it out now... (Insert sweating smiley here)