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#21
Coach / Re: 1978 chieftain 26ft furnac...
Last post by David.lgtwks - April 26, 2024, 10:30 AMThanks guys I'm Learning. I wanted to introduce my self, I'm David, from Tucson. I have been restoring a m400 Winnebago for a few years now, as time and life permitted. I stated with a good running truck that has been kept up and upgraded. But 95000 miles and the floor and sides just shook apart. Coming along with now with new floor and light pvc panels covering the inside walls, upgraded refer, a/c and soon I get to use her as intended, finally!! I have used this forum and my manual and am convinced I have a dependable unit!! In the next couple years I'm doing a Chevy truck LS conversion.
#22
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 25, 2024, 11:21 PMThis is the thing I made to do the brakes like in the video..The hose kept curling up out of the fluid so I strapped a bolt to it to weigh it down..
I had a completely empty system when it came to brake fluid..I ended up using 3/4 of a quart, with the reservoir topped off
You could see the bubbles in the bottle as you slowly pumped the peddle..then there were none and you knew you were done on that wheel..
After everything was bled, the brakes are very solid..And that is without a vacuum source..I guess that is what you get when EVERYTHING is new or rebuilt!!
I had a completely empty system when it came to brake fluid..I ended up using 3/4 of a quart, with the reservoir topped off
You could see the bubbles in the bottle as you slowly pumped the peddle..then there were none and you knew you were done on that wheel..
After everything was bled, the brakes are very solid..And that is without a vacuum source..I guess that is what you get when EVERYTHING is new or rebuilt!!
#23
Coach / Re: 1978 chieftain 26ft furnac...
Last post by DaveVA78Chieftain - April 25, 2024, 08:06 PMMy 78 Chieftain (WDP26RB) with Rear bath had a Coleman 4330 Presidential furnace in it
Go here for Brochure
Go here for Parts Book once you know your model code from the brochure. Will either be WDP26RB or WDP26RK (rear kitchen)
Go here for Brochure
Go here for Parts Book once you know your model code from the brochure. Will either be WDP26RB or WDP26RK (rear kitchen)
#24
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 25, 2024, 06:08 PM #25
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by Eyez Open - April 25, 2024, 12:21 PMSpeed bleeder's I've used them and they worked to purge the system. A long term evaluation has not occurred yet but they work quite well.
https://www.oemys-performance.com/speedbleeder.htm
https://youtu.be/35zk5txah8c?feature=shared
https://www.oemys-performance.com/speedbleeder.htm
https://youtu.be/35zk5txah8c?feature=shared
#26
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 24, 2024, 10:51 PMYou have to bleed out the new master cylinder, before you start on the brake bleeding..
Made these lines that go right back into the reservoir..It took about 20-25 pumps of the brake peddle to burp the MC of air..
Ran out of daylight..will bleed the rest of the system tomorrow..
Made these lines that go right back into the reservoir..It took about 20-25 pumps of the brake peddle to burp the MC of air..
Ran out of daylight..will bleed the rest of the system tomorrow..
#27
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 23, 2024, 10:34 PMmore pics
#28
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 23, 2024, 10:33 PMBrakes for the front installed..Still need to make some brake lines to complete the system..
#29
Project Blogs / Re: Mike's 1973 D22 Complete t...
Last post by RockwoodMike - April 23, 2024, 10:31 PMhttps://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11572185&cc=1504224&pt=1684&jsn=902
The brake pads that are going in this..
The brake pads that are going in this..
#30
Dodge - Chrysler Chassis / Unique Issue; Rear drum and Ri...
Last post by Burlandofam - April 23, 2024, 12:13 PMCorrection; 1971 D20 chassis.
Issue; Previous owner put on non factory rims (singles) backwards. These rims have a small ridge to contact the drum on the inner side of the rims, the outer side is totally flat, so the contact patch of the rim, instead of being 1/4 inch wide, is now 1" wide. More surface area rusted to the drum and thats not the only thing...the lug nuts, and consequently, the holes on the rim are both tapered. Possibly, he deflected the metal of the rim surrounding each stud inward when tightening the lug nuts, making it virtually impossible to remove (with the exception of having a "way-back machine"). Soaked all possible rust areas with PB blaster for 2 consecutive nights and sledged the rear side of the rim with a sledge on a 4x4 oak plank.. nothing. Took an 8' 4x4 and chained it through the vent holes on the rim, getting the end of the 4x4 as close to the rim as possible at 3 oclock. I was able to use the full floater axle housing as the fulcrum, and snapped the welded chain. The tire is flat ( slow leak was why I looked at it in the first place, and the D20 is in a storage yard without power to run my compressor to air it up. I feel screwed, but am wondering just how screwed am I and what can I do from this point before I cause other problems with the rear brakes et al?
Thanks in advance.
Issue; Previous owner put on non factory rims (singles) backwards. These rims have a small ridge to contact the drum on the inner side of the rims, the outer side is totally flat, so the contact patch of the rim, instead of being 1/4 inch wide, is now 1" wide. More surface area rusted to the drum and thats not the only thing...the lug nuts, and consequently, the holes on the rim are both tapered. Possibly, he deflected the metal of the rim surrounding each stud inward when tightening the lug nuts, making it virtually impossible to remove (with the exception of having a "way-back machine"). Soaked all possible rust areas with PB blaster for 2 consecutive nights and sledged the rear side of the rim with a sledge on a 4x4 oak plank.. nothing. Took an 8' 4x4 and chained it through the vent holes on the rim, getting the end of the 4x4 as close to the rim as possible at 3 oclock. I was able to use the full floater axle housing as the fulcrum, and snapped the welded chain. The tire is flat ( slow leak was why I looked at it in the first place, and the D20 is in a storage yard without power to run my compressor to air it up. I feel screwed, but am wondering just how screwed am I and what can I do from this point before I cause other problems with the rear brakes et al?
Thanks in advance.