Dashboard Warning Lights-what do they mean?

[Dolores]

Hi there, does anyone know what the warning lights mean on a 1993 Winnebago Brave please?  Owner's handbook didn't come with the RV so not got a clue and one light is on despite changing the brake master cylinder. I would appreciate any help you can give. If you've got a handbook which you don't want, would you consider selling to me please (in UK)   Thank you.

[Froggy1936]

Hi D You did not state that the light was or was not on before MC replacement. But if it is the brake warning light and you do not have any leaks, Pressing very hard repeatidly on the brake should reset it and turn it off !  Or it could be alternator or oil pressure  Or still have a brake problem Or emergency brake is on !  Hm? Frank

[Dolores]

Hi Frank, this light  - whatever it is - began to flicker then after about 100 miles or so, it came on and stayed on. Garage found MC was leaking so changed it, also 2 pipes.  They had an awful job bleeding it, but maybe because they are not American RV specialists. Brakes still feel slightly spongy and light is still on, so tomorrow husband is going to have a look. Someone said there is an Actuator somewhere which could be low on fluid, now next job is to find it!   If someone with a Brave knew what these lights are for, and could possibly scan the page to me, I would be grateful

[pvoth1111]

A pic would help

[Dolores]

Hello there, When I go to the RV tomorrow I will take a pic.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Here is Carolyn's 1993 Winnebago Brave instrument panel




Carolyn,
Silly me did not read your post closely at first.  Here is the 1993 Brave Operators manual: http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/pdfs/Operator1993/93Brave.pdf


Unfortunantly Winnebago refers you to the Chevy P30 Operators manual for gauge descriptions.

I am looking for some reference material

Dave

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Because they had to order the chassis from GM or Ford early, Winnebago typically placed this years rig (e.g. 1993) on last years chassis (e.g. 1992).
Chevy converted to TBI injection based on a OBD1 based computer in 1990 which yours would be.

I just happen to have a 1992 P30 service manual that has both gas and diesel instrument panel information in it.  Here is the gas (petrol) drawing.  If you have a diesel rig, let me know.




If the Service Engine light is ON you have to use a code reader to read the fault code.

Dave

[Dolores]

Dave  - you are a Genius!!!!   Thank you ever so much for your help.    All GM would do was refer me to Chevrolet UK, who haven't got a clue about RVs, specially one 21 years old. You have done more to help me than they did.  I really appreciate it. The good news is that the Brake light is out but the bad news is that the Service light is on but as husband has changed oil and filters I can live with it. Thank you yet again.  x

[TerryH]

My dash is identical to Dave's photos. Without knowing which light is on, can't really help.
For me I need a code reader to both read and cancel warning lights and codes.

[Dolores]

Husband has dug out a code reader for our car. Wonder if it would work on an RV?  Do you know where the plug-in point is?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

For OBD1, you are looking for the ALDL connector which will be under the dash on the drivers side





For the P30 motorhome chassis, it may be loose or mounted to the underside of the dash.

For OBD1, as long as it is not a ABS brake system fault, you should be able to read the codes without a reader:  http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php
When they say ground pins A and B, they mean install a jumper wire between pins A and B.  Pin A is ground.

OBD1 Codes: http://www.gmtuners.com/OBD1_DTC.htm

I have more information if you need it.

Dave

[Dolores]

Hello, here is an up-date of last year's problems in case anyone is interested. Despite the garage changing the m/c which turned out to be faulty and had to be exchanged, changing 2 pipes (but I can't see where...)  New m/c fitted and bench bled,  new pipe fitted 3 weeks again and bled, bled again today, got a lot of air out of the furthest away wheel .......the blasted light is still on!   It goes off if I go into Reverse, comes back on when I go into Drive.  have tried slamming brakes on but still the light is there. The front of the RV dips when I slam the brakes on.  Coming to the end of my tether now.

[Froggy1936]

Hi Delores, The wheel that you are  getting the air out of (rear) If the veh has rear wheel emergency brake & has been parked for a time with emergency applied The wheel cly can suck in air and not show a leak Due to shoes pulled out by cables relaxing wheel cly . The light on (i assume you mean the brake warning light) And the frt end dipping on application could mean rears are not working due to safety valve being upset . From air in rear syestem , This can get tricky to reset , Also an  em brake light switch / wireing can leave light on . T he light going out in reverse ? could be the way the syestem is wired or wires are crossed . I think its time for an expert to diagnoise As it could get pretty complicated  Sorry there is no easy answer  i?? Frank

[bluebird]

Does this coach have 4 wheel disc brakes? If it does the light probably won't reset until all the air is out of the system. If it has drum brakes on the rear, they may need to be adjusted. Also try and release the parking brake and lift up on the pedal with your foot. If it is down 2 notches or more the light will light. Make sure the proportioning valve isn't leaking, or the lines they replaced aren't leaking. When I replaced my front hoses and calipers on my Itasca, I had a heck of a time getting the air out of the system.

[Dolores]

Since last June I have done nothing but 'ON'  and  'OFF', check fluid, get thoroughly oily, slam brakes on etc ........so it is booked in to a proper Motorhome repair centre in March.  Let's hope they have more success with it!!!   Watch this space.
PS.  Yes it does have 4 wheel disc brakes, and I suspect it IS still air in the system as the light  (instead of staying on) has gone back to flickering.

[DRMousseau]

Lights are typically on/off or flashing, and are pretty distinct.

Lights that flicker, are usually a faulty circuit. Dirty, worn, or loose switch contacts inside switches will cause flickering. Faulty light bulbs bulbs (broken filament), dirty or worn contacts, receptacles and connections can also cause flickering. Loose, dirty, or poor ground connections are often a cause of flickering. Some switches require adjustment of actuating point. If those are If improperly adjusted, or if the switch bracket is loose the actuator may cause flickering of lights. Intermitant shorts caused by broken or worn wire insulation can also cause flickering problems.

In over 40yrs of various mechanics, I've never seen fluid pressure variations result in flickering of indicator lights,... intermitant on or off, but flickering is most always is a circuit problem.

NOW,.... where to begin looking?!? Lol!

[Dolores]

Oh dear me!   I will pretend I haven't seen the last post  -  and let the mechanic sort it out (hopefully).    He seems to be confident.......

[JerryP]

I would check the emergency brake cable, and switch. See if it is too tight, too loose, partially engaged, or the switch is bad, or out of adjustment.
That has typically been my problem with any brake lights in the past.

I believe in starting with the simple cheap stuff first, and working my way up to dreadfully expensive.

[Dolores]

Hello, you are a clever man!  The mechanic found a loose wire on the brake switch in the brake pedal area. He said the brakes on the RV were perfect, no air in the system at all.  He didn't think the switch was working, asked if there was a light when we switched on the ignition to show the handbrake was 'on'.  No.    Have left it with him to fit a new one.  Hopefully this damn light will go out and not come back ever again!!

[Dolores]

Actually I should have said  - you are ALL clever men! But especially DR Mousseau for pointing in the right direction. Thanks.

[Dolores]

Collected it from repairer to end of road, light came back on. turned it round to take back and pool of oil underneath, a pipe had rusted through. Had it back today -  no damned light!  Yippee!   But no other dashboard lights either except 'service engine soon'.  When I switch the ignition on, shouldn't there be light/lights which go off before I pull away?

[Rickf1985]

You are correct, the lights should come on for a light check and then go off. They do not always all go off at the same time but they should all be off within around 5-7 seconds with the exception of normal engine warning lights like oil pressure if you have that.

[Dolores]

Just to up-date anyone who is reading this old Post....there was a loose wire  plus another wire had been placed OVER a component not UNDER it and was swaying and making intermittent contact.    I won't have to bleed again as no air in the system!

[DRMousseau]

Happy to learn this problem was traced down for ya!!

I recently mounted a pair of auxiliary driving lights to the front bumper, using the bumper itself as a chassis ground. I was unable to power up the lights, even though full voltage was present at all points!!! Continuity checks showed good ground to bumper and to other chassis points, but only when I grounded the light wire directly to another chassis point, did I get lights.

Seems the 40yr old bumper mounting, with its solid mounting and massive bolts, will pass the voltage AND various testing,.... but NOT the current necessary for light operation. This was due to primers, paints, and unseen rust and light, insulating corrosion. Rather than adding a Ground Strap from bumper to chassis frame, I simply grounded each light to a nearby point beyond the bumper.

Such challenging circuit problems are common in ALL vehicles!

[Oz]

Thanks for the update, Dolores!