Best Engine oil weight recommendations for 440?

[OldEdBrady]

Sent: 1/28/2005 9:56 PM

What would be the best weight oil to use in a 440?  It's a '76 (chassis) Brave.  I've seen several posts mentioning oil, but nothing stating what various people believe to be best.

[HeavyHaulTrucker]

Sent: 1/28/2005 10:54 PM

Ed, I tried some 20W50 a while back -- if you live in a cold area, that is not the best for you.  I used 10W40 this time, and if works good.  I have heard some guys say they like 10W30, but either one is fine.

John

[OldEdBrady]

Sent: 1/29/2005 12:51 AM

When you live in an area like I do (Utah), and the temp struggles to reach freezing (and usually fails) about a month of the year, you might refer to it as a bit chilly.  I'll give the 10W40 a shot.  Thanks.

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 1/29/2005 1:01 AM

Just watch your oil consumption. The 10w40 is thin enough that if your motor is worn, and you've used 25W50 for a long time, figure on twice the oil consumption over an oil change period (like 2 quarts down at 3K miles, when it used to be about 1qt...)
And don't mix different oil grades....(like 10W40 and 20W50 together). That can cause premature oil pump and bearing/ring  failures, which aren't a pretty sight.

Tom

[denisondc]

Sent: 1/29/2005 8:07 AM

The service manual has a long list of oils, from 10W30 up through 20W50, including straight 30 weight and 40 weight. For lower temperatures it lists straight 20 wt, along with 10W20, 10W30, 10W40. If you were going to be using your mopar V8 in temperatures below -10f, they even list 5w20 and 5w30.
I used 20w50 on vacations in hot weather and it gave me great oil pressure, but that autumn, on a chilly morning, it took a while to run on all 8 cylinders - because until that thick 20W50 got warm, some of the lifters wouldn't bleed down quickly enough to let the valves got fully shut. It misfired for the first 10 or 15 minutes, then ran fine. And I changed back to 10W40 - which I now use all the time. I dont worry too much about mixing oil blends, because I believe the industry now uses mostly compatible thickening polymers. This was not always the case years ago.

[OldEdBrady]

Sent: 1/29/2005 11:11 AM

I'd never mix weights. 

I have no idea what grade was in her when I got her.  But, true to my own warped way of doing things, the first thing I did after I got her was change the oil and filter.  But, with 5 1/2 tons, I wasn't too sure about the weight, and, at that time, hadn't found this site yet.  So, I guessed.  So far no problems, and the oil consumption is almost negligible at this point.  'Course, we've only put about 1,000 miles on her so far.

[Cooneytoones]

Sent: 1/29/2005 10:38 PM

Here's a little info:

What a Multi-Viscosity Oil Includes

A multi-viscosity package includes the following:

Pout-point Depressants - Straight mineral oils tend to congeal into wax-like consistency in low temperatures. Special additives keep the oil molecules from joining, thereby keeping the oil liquid.

Oxidation and Bearing-Corrosion Inhibitors - These compounds are designed to slow the rate of oxidation and to provide a coating for bearings.

Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors - Water-laden air enters engine crankcases, and the water condenses when the engine cools. It mixes with the oil and causes formation of acids. Additives are needed to neutralize the acids and help coat metal surfaces to keep acids from attacking them.

Detergent/Dispersant Additives - Combustion byproducts must be kept in suspension so they can be drained out with the oil. It's important to note that these additives will not clean sludge and varnish out of an engine; their primary role is to prevent sludge formation. The role of these additives is one of the reasons new oil tends to darken soon after an oil change. As these additives are used up, they perform their function, which is why the oil must be changed.

Foam Inhibitors - Oil is subjected to high pressure and engine components that are rotating at high speeds, so it mixes and becomes aerated. Because aerated oil does not work very well, these inhibitors, mainly silicones, are used to reduce foaming.

Viscosity - Oil viscosity (thickness) changes with temperature, and since many engines are operated in widely varying temperatures, oils that maintain fairly consistent viscosity can provide good circulation during cold starts, while also affording proper lubrication under high temperatures. Polymers are used to provide this versatility in multi-grade petroleum-based oils. For example, ASE 10W-30 is listed by many motor companies as suitable for use in an ambient temperature range from 0?F to an excess of 100?F, while SAE 30 is listed as suitable for a range of 40?F to an excess of 100?F.

Extreme-Pressure Additives - Certain chemicals that tend to be attracted to metal surfaces are known as boundary lubricants. They help prevent metals from galling or from welding to each other under high temperatures when the oil film is very thin, such as in the cam-to-lifter contact area.
Just a little info......I use mostly 10w 30....Personally I stay away from the 5w stuff manufactures recommend.....maybe if I was in the Yukon or somwhere where the temp never rises above 10 degrees for long periods of time, I might use it, but 10 w 30 and in summer 10 w 40 is my personal preference. The state of Indiana uses 20w 50 in all there snow plows, and dump trucks...I think, that's a little heavy for our climate here...although the past few weeks we've had 75 degree tempurature swings in the course of 5 days....so 10w 30 works for me...I've been using Castol for many years....and It's never let me down....

Timmy

[Oz]

Sent: 1/30/2005 3:49 AM

5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, HD 30...

What do these numbers mean? - NotSoSmartSob

[enigma960080]

Sent: 1/30/2005 11:00 AM

heres a link  that explains...

www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

[70winnie]

Sent: 1/30/2005 12:30 PM

Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors - Water-laden air enters engine crankcases, and the water condenses when the engine cools. It mixes with the oil and causes formation of acids.

So much for the old saying "oil and water don't mix"!

[westcoast redneck]

Sent: 1/30/2005 3:23 PM

10-30w to 10-40.w. I wouldn't go any different than that.  I always go 100% synthetic.Just a little more than conventional oils but it's worth it.

[HeavyHaulTrucker]

Sent: 1/30/2005 8:50 PM

Redneck -- "Just a little more", eh?

O'Reiley's prices:

House brand 10W40                        .98 per quart
All Synthetic Oils                          4.69 per quart

John

[RV Mech Tech]

Sent: 1/31/2005 2:28 AM

From the 73 â€" 75   Motor Home  Manual   (applies to all V-8 engines of these years)   

Over+32F    10W-30, 40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-40, or 20W-50

+32F   to   +10F       10W-30, 10W40, 10W-50 or 20W-20

+10F   to   -10F       SAE  10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50 , 5W-30, or 5W40

Below -10F              5W-20,   5W-30 or 5W-40

I worked around the track at Watkins Glen in the 60's. Kendal was a   popular brand oil there.  Don't even know that it can be found anymore. Then I talked with people from Daytona who do a lot of engine re-building. They told me to use Texas oil, brand didn't matter.
I use Texaco 10W-30 or 10W-40 here in West Tennessee. I just got rid of a 1989 Dodge 318 cid engine, car, with 230,000 mi. on it,

only because I had too many vehicles. It was still running fine, and not using any oil between changes. Never been torn down. It also required Hi-test gas to run right. That's too expensive these days. Was getting 16 city, and up to 21 hiway. 3.64-1 rear end

In my 2002 Impala I use 5W-30, as it is a higher rpm engine,  built to tighter specs..  Gets  31 MPG. overall . In my 1999 Ford 350 Power Stroke Diesel, I use 15W-30 Shell Rotella, been popular with diesels for years. Ok for other engines too.

In my 1984 I use 10W-30 and have since I bought it new. It has 176,000 mi. on it and still runs strong. Never done much of anything to it other than regular maintenance. Used the same oil when it was in NY and Fl.

Have used Texaco oil for 45 years, never had engine problems. My 1975 Winnie gets 10W-30 or 40 too. Had 3, 440 engines

All of my gas engines get a quart of Rislone about twice a year. Rislone has been around since the 20's and my dad believed it keeps the lifters working better. He was a machinist.

I believe if you want to spend the extra money silicone oil is worth it. Can extend oil changes too. I have an oil electrolysis tester to keep tabs on my oil.

I use nothing but silicone grease for everything. It will stand higher temps and won't wash out, great for boat trailer bearings.

I was an AMSOIL dealer for several years

To me it depends how my engine is performing, what the temperatures are, and Use an API - SE, CC or later, they keep changing, upgrading that rating.

Use a  brand name oil. The store brand oil is often re-constuted oil not a good idea in my thinking.  Somebody is going to tell me different, but 50 years of driving and owning many Cars, Trucks, Motor homes and several trailers, I haven't had engine problems yet.

Oh yeah, I just got rid of a 1969 Caddy Hardtop, Sedan De Ville that was like new condition,  69,000 orig. miles. Texas 10W-30 oil. Several motorcycles in my earlier days. 

Can't keep them up anymore myself

Listen to your engine, it will tell you what it wants, likes, even in brands of gas. No two engines are the same.<o:p></o:p>

Just an old car (vehicle) nut

[007]

you guys want to check out somthing pretty cool googel up OPS ECOPURE, just installed one on my big truck and changed over to rotella t6 synthetic ( 11gal)275.00$, eco pure 650.00looking to get 100,000 to 200,000 miles or more before changing oil , ops filter gets changed at 25,000 and send in oil sample, the #s tell the story... refresh, change or problems  , then engine and ops at 50,000 and so on oil sample every time. the eco pure filter filters to two microns, talcum power is 10 microns. have 7000 on my oil and still looks like it came out of the bottle. same oil will be going into two my 440 this spring, rotella t6. just thought i'd throw this out there, change your thinking, not your oil. mark

[eddie]

WWWHHHAAA? ??!!! So what should i put in this ride? ?!!!!!!!!

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Don't ever believe any of the hype put out by synthetic oil makers.  The bottom line is that an internal combustion engine breaks down oil, even synthetics.  Also, as an engine is run, fine particles of carbon and metal, even smaller than 2 microns, get in the oil and start to wear out bearings, etc.

In my opinion, you are always better off using a decent regular oil, and changing your oil every 3000 miles.

Kev 

[Froggy1936]

Seems this subject has fallen into the politics / religion catagory eh ?

[Froggy1936]

WWWHHHAAA? ??!!! So what should i put in this ride? ?!!!!!!!!

Rule no. 1 follow manufacturers reccomendations   Cant go wrong with that .   SPEEDRACER !  Frank

[007]

you're right kevin stuff builds up in oil can't argue that,ops isn't a oil maker jus a by pass filtration system i do a fullservice lab sample every 15,000 mi  through CAT labs and if it doesn't peform it goes in the garbage, not risking my $22,000 in frame on a couple hunded dollars worth of oil D:oH! sorry ed didn't mean to steal your post. mark

[LJ-TJ]

Well never under stood the synthetic stuff. I always figured the purpose of oil was to lubericat  and cool the engine. I've always use Rotella T 10W-30 and changed the filter every 2,000 miles or depending on the trip after every trip. Cost me about $40.00 a change and bottom line it's a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild.

[PwrWgnWalt]

WWWHHHAAA? ??!!! So what should i put in this ride? ?!!!!!!!!

I think used lawnmower oil should do the trick!  :)rotflmao