Mostly just saying hi

[AliceKelly]

I meant I would use miracle oil first if I could find it and use  Lucas if I couldn't.  Me don't mix things.  Lol fire bad!  Thank you once again for the Rotella tip. I'll chance the ruel tube today.  Then off to date night with my wife.  Woot star wars movie.

[AliceKelly]

I have another dumb question.  Is there much difference in changing winnebago dually tires from. A. Car?  I imagine I'll need a 1/2 impact and jack stands and a jack. It's keeping me up at night imagining doi g one.  I don't have a jack or anything.  I'm thinking I want one of those old jeep bumper Jack's.  The. Giant ones that go click click.  You see them on the back of jeeps all the time.  And a long bar to jack it.. Feel free to tell me what I'll need for a safe change.  (besides a hard surface)   I'm afraid of those bottle Jack's.  Their just so unstable.  Or do you jack the whole side of the Fram up?..... Never done a dually

[Rickf1985]

You need a jack that goes under the axle or front control arm. That is too heavy of a vehicle to try to jack up by the bumper. You will need to use a bottle jack or a screw jack. They are the same thing but different in operation. If you block the opposite end tires front and back of the tire then it cannot roll off the jack and you are only jacking up one side so the other side on the ground will keep it from going sideways. You don't have to go a mile in the air, just enough to get the tire off. A jackstand is also a good thing to have for safety to put under there in addition to the jack once it is in the air. As far as the lug nuts, you don't really need an impact wrench, a large breaker bar and a socket and extension will work just as well. And they do not need batteries or air.

[wae]

I picked up the 20 ton bottle jack from The Hammer Store (Harbor Freight) specifically for doing chassis work on the RV.  Normal price is about $30 but I think you can use their 25% off coupon on those since it's not a "floor jack".  That coupon is good through tomorrow.  You could make the argument that because you're just changing a tire and not really getting under the RV that a jackstand isn't necessary, but I'm not a fan of that argument.  For that, I picked up the 12-ton jack stands.  I figure that the Hammer Store's 12 tons is about equivalent to about 6 US tons, so they're probably pretty safe.  They are intensely heavy, though.

I found with the bottle jack that it needed to be cribbed up quite a bit in order to lift my coach past its suspension travel to get the wheel all the way off the ground.  I carry around several stacks of 1x6 boards that I cut into 10" lengths for putting under my leveling jacks so I stack those under the frame rail of the coach until the bottle jack fits with as little clearance as possible and then start lifting.

You might consider this too dangerous, but I have also used the leveling jacks to get the wheels off the ground before.  Again, a couple bits of the 1x6 under the jack pad and it was able to lift the coach just enough to get the tire off the pavement.  I've heard that using the leveling jacks in that way is dangerous, so make the risk/reward calculation on your own and be prepared to live with your decision.

It's all very much just like regular car parts.  There isn't that much difference between what you have on the motorhome versus a car.  A G30 chassis is just a regular pickup truck chassis design at its base (modified to fit a van box) and many of the parts interchange with consumer-grade trucks.  My P30 chassis shares parts with the C/K2500 and 3500 and probably your chassis as well.  Plus, this truck design didn't change all that much for a couple decades so they don't really do anything fancy anywhere, just very basic stuff.  Here's where it gets different, though:  It's freaking heavy.  Everything is so much heavier than your normal automotive part and it will really exhaust you.  I'm 44 years old and in good physical condition with no joint or muscle problems but when it's time to hang the wheel back on the studs, I am just spent!  If you can fit a decent electric impact into your budget, I'd recommend it - I can't imagine how tired I'd be if I had to turn all those fasteners myself!

[AliceKelly]

Thanks guys.  City came through few days ago with new signs saying no parking over 7000 pounds.  Looked at my title and we're only 5000.   But that brings me to the point.   I baught 3 ton jack stands. I hope they hold if I need them.  It's kind of amazing how quickly 20 feet of space gets filled.  I was hoping to go with pneumatic tools some day.  Maybe someday I will figure out some clever way to his a compressor

[AliceKelly]

Haven't done anything yet.  Just posting to say I'll get back to it after xmass.  Merry Christmas everyone. See you in a few days

[LJ-TJ]

Have a great Christmas.

[AliceKelly]

Merry Christmas tj merry Christmas Mr Fox.  Merry Christmas to all

[AliceKelly]

Nothing has happened. It's. To. Cold to even pop the bonnet.  Prolly a few. More days

[AliceKelly]

So I ha E a whole new problem.  I rebuilt the quadrajet and it seems OK.  All the vacuum lines are tight connected or blocked. If I cover the Choke or cover it she dies so I'm sure it's not a vacuum leak.  I've had to set the idle a little higher than I like and adjusted the idle air flows.


When I screwed them in tight I didn't hear the engine change rpm or anything.  I actually removed one while running and it barely started running bad.  Screwed it back in and. It's same idle in all positions.


Any thoughts?

[Rickf1985]

You had to set the idle higher than you like? What was it doing at idle? Running rich or lean? It sounds to me like one of the separator gaskets is not sealed. If it was running rich and you increased the idle speed then now you are getting out of the idle circuit and the mixture screws are not going to work. You didn't over tighten the four hold down bolts did you? That can warp or even crack the housing. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with a Qjet rebuild and it is pretty hard to pin it down without being there to actually see it.

[AliceKelly]

I found that almost all the bolts were loosened a bit and tightened a. Little but nowhere close to over tight.  I used a 1/4 ratchet to make sure I wasn't over tightening but I'll have a look

[AliceKelly]

Ps it was running a tiny bit lean.  If I give it about 1/3 choke it idles almost perfect

[Rickf1985]

You need to back out the mixture screws just a hair. You need to do it evenly though. Back one out until it idles better but no more than a half turn and then go to the other one and do the same thing. Once you get a good idle you will need to run the screws in until it just starts to drop off a tiny bit. This will be where you need to be for an emissions test. Once you get your sticker you can back the screws out for the smooth idle. Or you can leave them as is, it will not affect performance. The hold down bolts need to be tight but not real tight, Kind of hard for a lifetime mechanic to explain.  Hm?  I just know the feel.

[AliceKelly]

Checked all the bolts and screws.  None were tighter or looser than a couple pounds over finger tight


Here's something though. When in gear she idles. Perfect. Took her to flying j / pilot to dump black tank and was seriously impressed.  Her fuel usage went down by a ton. Went about 15 miles used less than 1/8 of a tank.  (last time with old carb she took a full quarter of a tank)  I'm reasonably pleased with the results.


When setting the idle screws I went all the way in and turned them 3 full screws out.  I adjusted the fast idle up... Now thinking to back the fast idle screw off a tiny bit. Still I'm really happy and she doesn't smoke at all... Especially when she is nice a d warm.


Haven't changed the. Oil yet looking forward to putting in a quart of miracle.  Still she doesn't make any internal noises Knocks or pings.  Jumps to 55 without having to push her at all.  ( I'm assuming her favorite speed is 55 due to age).


I'm going to go try a test on 1/8/20  to see where she scores on emissions test.  She. Might just pass if I warm her up good first. If not I have several options and I'll know what needs to be done from the readout she gets back.  I'm thinking she will pass though and. I might not need the smog pump cause I'm not asking for the waiver yet.  If she fails terribly ill put a. Pump on.  If it's a. Little ill change. Oil


Either way I'm pretty pleased with her.

[LJ-TJ]

For sure change the oil and filter and air filter before you go for your emissions test.

[Rickf1985]

the fact that you can turn the screws all the way in without it stalling is a problem. Unless you have the idle WAY up. At a 550-650 idle it should stumble at about 1 1/2 out and stall before you get all the way in. You need to be sure you don't turn them in tight, just snug but that would not cause this issue. You are getting gas into the idle circuit somehow past the mixture screws. Back them out 3 turns and then turn the idle speed way down and then try turning them in a little at a time on each one and see what happens.

[AliceKelly]

On it senor Rick 😁

[AliceKelly]

Sorry I been out.  Tomorrow is supposed to be a descent temperature so I'm going to pull the carb and reset all the screws and check all my seals.


When I'm done I'm thinking I want to put some bolts into the. Front of my frozen air pump and try turning it backwards with a ton of wd-40 and see if I can t free it up.


As for the carb I been driving around with it in it present state a couple weeks.  It seems to run well and still no smoke. Even less after she runs a while.  My only concern is idle speed when not in gear and mpg.  The fuel consumption went way down after rebuilding the quadrajet but I'm thinking I used around 7 gallons for 18 miles.


I could be wrong but I think that's still a little high.  The other thing is she idles on like 1 second after turning off and  she backfired one time.  After I'm sure the cab isn't the problem any more I'm thinking point plugs and timing


Any pointers you might have about freeing the smog pump will be hugely welcome


Smooches

[tmsnyder]

Those smog pumps are problematic from the start, if your's is locked up I don't believe you'll be able to get it freed up and working reliably.  Try Amazon or RockAuto for a replacement.

[Froggy1936]

Hi the usual reason for Run on is idle to high !   Timing to high can cause higher idle.  And it is impossible to use that much fuel in that many miles without a leak  Frank

[Rickf1985]

In a Minnie you should get at least 10 MPG unless you have a real heavy right foot. You should not be taking the carb off to make adjustments? They have to made on the vehicle with it running. Idle speed is a simple screw adjustment on the side of the carb. You cannot set the mixture screws with it at high idle. did you check to see if the secondary plate was closed all the way when you rebuilt it?

[AliceKelly]

Aknowledged. Working

[AliceKelly]

On a side note I baught 5 year classic liscense plates today. Woot 5 years no emissions!!!   Thank you all for the great advice

[Rickf1985]