1989 P30 Driver Side Idler Arm

Started by Tim Traveler, June 23, 2019, 01:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Tim Traveler

I need to find the driver side idler arm for my 1989 Allegro on a P30 chassis.  The idler arm I am referring to connects directly to the Pitman arm and to the driver side bell crank arm.  Does anyone have any experience in finding one of these?  Part number?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Rickf1985


Shawn62

Rick,
      I am glad you mentioned the Supersteer up grade.  I had not heard of that before.  It gets very good reviews.


Thanks,


Shawn

Rickf1985

I put it on mine and it made a big difference. VERY pricey but what price do you paw for sawing that wheel back and forth for hundreds of miles? I would not spend the extra money for the Supersteer idler arm but the bellcranks have roller bearings instead of a couple of sleeves for the bearings. You really need to replace both bellcranks to get the full effect. If you don't think they are bad just lay under it looking directly up at the bottom pivot of the bell crank and then have someone swing the wheel back and forth inside. Do this on pavement or concrete with the engine running and put enough turn into it to just about start to turn the tires. I guarantee you will see that center shaft moving side to side in the housing.

Tim Traveler

Hi Rick


Thanks for the info. I did both Super Steer bell cranks a couple years ago, HUGE difference! The end of the idler arm going from the pitman arm to the bell crank arm - that joint is what is bothering. I will do some more digging.  Thanks again!

Rickf1985

You are looking for the Drag link. Is this it? They make adjustable and non-adjustable. I prefer the adjustable since it is easier to center the steering. But it appears the adjustable one is two inches shorter, I don't know if you can make that up safely with adjustment.


https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8803035-Drag-Link-Pitman-Arm-To-Steering-Arm-(11-Length)


Here is the solid one.


http://fcrcmachine.com/rare-parts-drag-link-1968-2007-chevrolet-gmc-p30-p32-motorhome-25891/

Tim Traveler

Hello Rick
Thank you so much for finding this for me!  I just ordered the OEM style drag link from FCRC Machine.  I ordered the MOOG #DS842, ($78.99) for anyone else that may be looking for this part. 

I did check the adjustable one, but as you stated, it is 2 inches shorter, and it may or may not make up in the adjustment.  2 different length drag links are available - one is 11" and the other is 13.438". 

Thank you again for looking.  Have a great day!

BrandonMc

Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 26, 2019, 01:03 PM
You are looking for the Drag link. Is this it? They make adjustable and non-adjustable. I prefer the adjustable since it is easier to center the steering. But it appears the adjustable one is two inches shorter, I don't know if you can make that up safely with adjustment.


https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8803035-Drag-Link-Pitman-Arm-To-Steering-Arm-(11-Length)





yeah, it would be nice to maybe be able to custom make your own adjustable drag link for those prices. I ordered one for the truck chassis by mistake and am trying to sell it. I believe this will allow me to center the steering wheel after the last alignment?

Rickf1985

A proper alignment should have the steering wheel centered at the exact point that the steering box is centered and the front wheels are centered. This is pretty much never done in an alignment, they just set the front end to the wheel not taking into account that someone may have had the steering wheel off at some point in 20 years or had the steering shaft off and got it a spline off. The steering box will have play at any point to the side of center so you really need to be sure the box is centered. This is not a simple 5 minute job.

BrandonMc

Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 27, 2019, 08:24 PM
A proper alignment should have the steering wheel centered at the exact point that the steering box is centered and the front wheels are centered. This is pretty much never done in an alignment, they just set the front end to the wheel not taking into account that someone may have had the steering wheel off at some point in 20 years or had the steering shaft off and got it a spline off. The steering box will have play at any point to the side of center so you really need to be sure the box is centered. This is not a simple 5 minute job.




thanks for the tip! 


I had this alignment done twice at the same shop. it was off center to the right the first time, so I figured my hardware was bad and replaced the bell cranks and balljoints. did another realignment and it was still off the same amount to the right - so figured it needed adjusting of the steering box or an adjustable drag link was the next step.  chalk it up to inexperience and trusting these shops know anything what they're doing.

Rickf1985

I took mine to a truck shop in the area that does a lot of fleet work and I specified exactly what air pressure I wanted in the front air bags before the alignment was done. (BE SURE YOU SPECIFY THE AIR PRESSURE TO THE ALIGNMENT PEOPLE BECAUSE DIFFERENT AIR PRESSURE CHANGES ALL ASPECTS OF THE ALIGNMENT!!!! )
You know how they set my alignment and tried to charge me 200.00?!  He raised or lowered the air pressure in the bags until the camber was where the machine liked it and then he set the toe in at that point!!!!!! I had 70 lbs. in one bag and 30 in the other!!!!! I flat out told the boss I was not paying and to equal the pressures at 40 and set the toe there and I was leaving, Which I did and never went back.

BrandonMc

Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 29, 2019, 11:39 AM
I took mine to a truck shop in the area that does a lot of fleet work and I specified exactly what air pressure I wanted in the front air bags before the alignment was done. (BE SURE YOU SPECIFY THE AIR PRESSURE TO THE ALIGNMENT PEOPLE BECAUSE DIFFERENT AIR PRESSURE CHANGES ALL ASPECTS OF THE ALIGNMENT!!!! )
You know how they set my alignment and tried to charge me 200.00?!  He raised or lowered the air pressure in the bags until the camber was where the machine liked it and then he set the toe in at that point!!!!!! I had 70 lbs. in one bag and 30 in the other!!!!! I flat out told the boss I was not paying and to equal the pressures at 40 and set the toe there and I was leaving, Which I did and never went back.


good for you, that's crazy. It's one reason I insist I do all the work I'm physically capable of or have the toolbox to get the job done. 


I'm very thankful for all the advice you've given me over the past few years.

Rickf1985

You can do a surprising good alignment in your driveway as long as it is flat, solid and level. You can get by with a tape measure and a spirit level and a framing square or one of these tools. I have used the top one many times although I did use a much more expensive USA made version. This one should do the same thing since all it is is a calibrated level and gauge. You will need a set of steering plates and for that I use two pieces of 1/8 steel plate with grease between them under each tire. That way you can turn the wheels while sitting still without harming the steering gear.


https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Adjustable-Magnetic-Camber-Alignment/dp/B07715X191?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_15709161_4&pf_rd_p=4390f485-93fd-538c-84e5-3ca94b2884d6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15709161&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=JB1DVX9S2N8BQ2NKGP88&pf_rd_r=JB1DVX9S2N8BQ2NKGP88&pf_rd_p=4390f485-93fd-538c-84e5-3ca94b2884d6


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qta-416405/overview/