Arizona 2019!!!

Started by ClydesdaleKevin, January 31, 2019, 01:31 PM

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joanfenn

You"ll do fine, just remember, you are smarter than the transmission :) :angel: :)rotflmao

Froggy1936

Mabey you hit that curb harder than you thought ?  :(
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: Froggy1936 on March 23, 2019, 07:08 PM
Mabey you hit that curb harder than you thought ?  :(

LOL Frank!  I'm guessing it has been cracked for a while, maybe since I bought it a couple of years ago...and then cracked some more recently, into a transmission fluid channel.  I'll know more when I pull out the old transmission on Monday.  I wonder if the driveshaft from the Holiday Rambler did the damage when it shot out from under the RV and was run over by the Jeep?

Anyhow, it could be worse...my Jeep has a lift already, a friend of mine has a rolling floor jack I can borrow (and he's going to help), and I found a local guy on Craigslist that has a used transmission from a 98 for 150 bucks.  This will be the first automatic transmission I've ever installed, so I'm not sure what else I should replace while it is out...maybe a new torque converter and seal?

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Froggy1936

 Hi Kev definitely wile out (make sure you use the convertor that goes with the Transmission) Pull the Frt seal and inspect the bushing If it still appears good just renew the seal , Make sure when you reinstall the (Drained as best as possible convertor) It engages the pump fully and don't let it slip forward during install . I use a flat bar bolted across the bell housing with a wooden spacer to hold the convertor in , It can be removed after transmission is lined up with the engine . After all bolted in remove the pan , Clean it and replace the filter . Note if any and how much stuff is in the bottom of the pan . It all came from wear on internal parts.  Add about 4-5 Quarts of fluid before starting add balance after running ASAP ! if wheels are off the ground you can run it thru the gears Easily, let it upshift all the way to top gear. Stop wheels and check reverse . Good luck and don't get hurt they are heavy ! Also check your pinion nut for tightness wile open !  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

ClydesdaleKevin

So the old transmission in our Jeep XJ tow vehicle is almost out...and we picked up the used transmission yesterday, as well as a new torque converter.  The used transmission seems to be in great condition...the seals are still pliable, the shaft turns, and the fluid is red and smells fine.

Today I'll be pulling the old one the rest of the way, and hopefully getting this "new" one installed completely...maybe even have the Jeep operational again by this evening.

Fingers crossed!

Kev

Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

Good grief!  Transmissions are hard!   D:oH! D:oH! D:oH! D:oH! D:oH!

So I picked up the used transmission for 150 bucks for our 98 Cherokee.  Earl, the guy I bought it from, bought the transmission from eBay, and when he bought it, the eBay seller said it was from a 98.  He never ended up using it and it sat in his garage for years.  It was NOT from a 98 or newer!!!  It had to have been from a much older model.

One would think that an AW4 transmission from a Jeep Cherokee would be pretty much compatible with EVERY year Jeep Cherokee with very little modification, right? WRONG!

After '97, they added more sensors, increased the size of the output shaft from 21 spline to 23 spline, changed the plug connectors, and even changed some sort of speed sensor in the transfer case adapter on the transmission tail cone, which happens to NOT be easily transferred from one transmission to the next, because the internals on the transmission side don't line up with the internals of the later transfer cases!  What the heck?

Anyhow, I got an early start this morning.  And by noon realized that there was simply NO way that this transmission was going to fit in my '98!  The splined shaft was smaller, the plug ends were different with different numbers of wires, the kickdown linkage was different, etc.

So I cleaned up and called Earl, the older retired gentleman that sold me the used transmission.  And gentleman he was!  Integrity like his is hard to come by anymore!  He told me to bring the transmission back to him, and he refunded my 150.00 bucks! 

I had found another used transmission for 300.00 on Craigslist the same time I found this one, and it was from a 99...totally compatible with the 98.  I talked the seller down to 250.00...so me and my buddy Will went down to Earl's and returned the wrong transmission, and then drove all the way to north Phoenix, 120 mile round trip, to see and possibly pick up the 99 transmission.  And pick it up we did!

It was on a pallet at D&M Automotive, who had done an LS swap for the original owner of the '99 Cherokee from which the transmission was removed.  They assured me not only of the year, but also that it had been running just fine when they pulled it to make the swap.  The torque converter was even still in place and had never been removed.  It was NOT drained of ATF fluid though...so in addition to the gas money I gave Will, I slipped him some more to clean out the bed of his truck at a car wash.   W%

Upon arrival I counted the output shaft splines...23!  And even though two of the wire harnesses had been cut, they were the right number of wires and the right color wires (I had cut off/unplugged the old two harnesses from my old transmission and brought them with me to match them up).

Success!  We brought it back to camp, and I spent the rest of the day transferring parts, splicing in wires, installing the transfer case, etc.  I also made a keeper from an old table saw wrench to keep the torque converter in place while installing the transmission.

I got everything switched over and ready to install before dark.  It is now sitting under the Jeep on a piece of plywood, ready to be reinstalled...which will happen tomorrow, come hell or highwater.   :)

A couple of things I noticed removing the old transmission:  Youtube videos aren't perfect!  I watched a slew of videos on changing out the transmission, and not a single one mentioned a bolt that holds on the UPPER aluminum sheet metal shield between the engine and bellhousing!  I'm just glad it was sheet aluminum and eventually broke at the bolt hole while I was rocking the transmission back and forth trying to remove the darn thing!  Also, not a single video mentioned removing the kickdown linkage on the driver's side...but that I figured out right away using some common sense.

And on the brightest side of this project?  I don't have to use the brand new torque converter!  So I'll get my money back, which was substantial for us and our limited budget, once I bring it back!  :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

So wish us luck tomorrow folks!  I still have to line everything up and get the transmission to seat against the engine and bolt it all up, etc.  Fun fun fun!!!

??? ??? ??? ??? ???

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Froggy1936

I would still recommend replacing the convertor / front pump seal wile its on the ground , Im assuming you did purchase one . However just imagine having to go inside the trans and problems magnify by a factor of 20. You are still doing the easy part . If the seal starts leaking after installation you will have the knowledge and experience to redo it FASTER  The second time !  ;)   Frank  P.S. dont forget to replace the filter wile it is readily available !
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: Froggy1936 on March 28, 2019, 02:17 PM
I would still recommend replacing the convertor / front pump seal wile its on the ground , Im assuming you did purchase one . However just imagine having to go inside the trans and problems magnify by a factor of 20. You are still doing the easy part . If the seal starts leaking after installation you will have the knowledge and experience to redo it FASTER  The second time !  ;)   Frank  P.S. dont forget to replace the filter wile it is readily available !

Too late!  It is in, and we can really use the 189.00 right now when I bring back the new unused torque converter!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Froggy1936

Reread slower ! N:( Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

ClydesdaleKevin

WOW that was a lot of work!   D:oH! D:oH! D:oH! D:oH! D:oH!

The used transmission is installed!  Thank God my buddy Will was over in my workshop building catapults...because having him help get the transmission on the scrapwood cradle I made for transmission on his rolling jack was incredibly helpful.  I probably could have gotten it up there myself, but having a big strong 28 year old help made it so much easier!  He also helped me get it all lined up and bolted in place before he went back to work on the catapults.

Almost everything is done.  All the wiring and breather tubes and cables and linkages are reinstalled neatly, the dipstick tube and dipstick are back in place, the torque converter bolts are installed, the torque converter cover plate is back in place, the crossmember is installed, etc.

It did take me almost 2 hours to get the exhaust flange studs out of the header flange (which I had to cut in order to get the exhaust header pipe off...and I had to grind and drill and hammer and torch and grind some more and hammer some more...and finally they came out.   $@!#@! $@!#@! $@!#@! $@!#@! $@!#@!

There is still a little left to do tomorrow:

-I have to install the starter, and find a nut and bolt to replace the one that was missing.

-I have to install the exhaust, and also find bolts and nuts to replace the studs I had to remove from the header flange.

-I have to grease and install the driveshafts.

-I have to drain any remaining fluid out of the transmission.

-I have to add the right amount of ATF-4+ (Dexron compatible) to the transmission and transfer case.

-I have to hook the battery back up.

-And then I have to cross my fingers and pray that it runs and drives and that the transmission I just installed is good.  And then I have to take it for a test drive, and possibly have to adjust the shift cable, etc.

So if all goes well and I don't have any issues tomorrow, and if I get an early start (which I will), I should have it back up and running by noon!  Woohoo!

WOW am I sore and tired!  Transmission are hard!

??? ??? ??? ??? ???

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

VICTORY!!!

:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

I did it!!!

:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

I successfully installed an automatic transmission for the first time in my 50 years on this planet, and it works!!!

:D

Not only does it work, but the high speed vibration is GONE on the Jeep!!!

The bellhousing must have been cracked for a while, possibly since I acquired this Jeep around 2 years ago.  Now there is no hesitation, the shifts are WAY smoother (after I adjusted the kickdown linkage and dialed in the shift cable and transfer case linkage).  There is no longer any high speed "vroom...vrum" vibrations which I thought was the drive shafts!  SWEET!!!

I am a very happy camper, and very proud of myself...lol!  I know a lot of you guys are ace mechanics...but to me, installing an automatic transmission successfully is a HUGE milestone!

I drove it all over this evening to run errands (since I didn't finish up until 3pm this afternoon...I had to get groceries and stuff for our last weekend at the Arizona Renfaire)...and so far, it is running great!  Shifts are crisp and clean, and all seems well.  Not a sign of dripping fluid or leaks. 

SWEET!!!   :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

Clean-up sucked, as usual.  Wiping down tools, getting everything put away, etc.  The most onerous job of any project.

But I did it!!!  And it works!!!

And yes Rick and Frank.  While the rear drive shaft was out, I tightened the hell out of the rear diff nut, since apparently I didn't tighten it enough the last time...lol!  Thanks to both of you for keeping that in my mind when I did the final details on this project.

Our Toad is back on the road, and road worthy!!!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

joanfenn

So Transmission is not as hard as you thought W%

fasteddie313

That is a sweet Jeep!
They are getting very hard to find not rusted completely out.. The rear shock mounts and spring mounts rot right off of them.


I had a red one that I was much too hard on. It did amazingly well climbing all sorts of big stuff but I eventually put the right rear spring through the floor because I accidentally launched it in the air trying to get a good run at a very big hill.. Hit so hard it never even ran right again. Limped it home driving half sideways.


Now that I'm a bit older and wiser I think I should have been nicer to it and fixed it up because it was in pretty good shape but I got it for almost nothing..
Traded a sound system and 6 months free room rent for it. It had broken springs and U-bolts in the back when I go it so I bought new U-bolts and cut up some F150 springs to fit it..

GFs mom just sold hers with almost 300k on it when she got a newer tahoe..

MAGA

ClydesdaleKevin

Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

The Arizona Renaissance Festival is officially ended, and we will be back on the road, this time to a small fair in Utah, on Sunday.

Lots to do before we leave!

I have to finish wiring in the solar panel system, inverter, and install the new batteries, pack down and stow our pavilion tent and stock, finish a big run of catapults, pack down and stow the workshop, pack down and stow our porch furniture, wash the pups, shampoo the carpets in the RV...and hit the road.

Lots to do!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

I managed to get the wires all cut for the solar panels today...10 gauge to the junction box on the roof with the proper MC-4 solar connectors.  I soldered the connections for full conductivity.  So the wiring for all 4 panels are all laid out.

I also made a waterproof junction box, with 2 bus connectors, and installed and glued it to the roof.  There are 4 waterproof conduit cable fitments on the junction box as well...and wires exposed to sunlight will go through conduit rated for outdoor sunlight.

For my previous solar project on our 1989 Holiday Rambler, it was cheaper to get 10 gauge extension cords from Harbor Freight and cut them down to size.  For whatever reason, even a 50 foot 10 gauge extension cord from Harbor Freight is now 80 bucks...on sale!!!

I ended up buying 10 gauge wire and 1/2 inch conduit to protect the wires from the sun for a fraction of that price.  It didn't used to be that way.

2 brand new Trojan deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries will be delivered on Thursday, for 110 bucks each.  Brand new.  We went with 6 volt flooded for the economy and watt hours, so when I expand the battery bank, I will have to build a box for them and vent them...the AGM batteries were TWICE the price for substantially less amp hours.

Tomorrow morning, early, I'll be taking down our pavilion tent and bringing it all back to camp, staged to load up for travel.

And then working on the solar project some more. 

And I still have to do a huge run of catapults before we leave on Sunday.

Fun fun fun!!!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

WOW I got a lot done today!

First thing this morning I took down our pavilion tent and packed down everything from the tent...and brought it back to the RV, staged to load up on Saturday.

Then I finished ALL the cable runs for the solar project and the inverter.  I put the wires from each solar panel through sun-proof conduit, attached the conduit to the waterproof junction box on the roof, glued down the conduit (although I did use some cable clamps and stainless screws on the ends to keep the conduit tight and straight), sealed the open ends of the conduit where the MC-4 connectors come out under the solar panels, attached all the wires to bus blocks I bought just for the junction box (which I lined with plywood), and added zip ties to the 4 gauge cables where they come down into the fridge compartment, and then sealed the hole I drilled in the floor for the cables with silicone.

Additionally, I ran an RJ-12 six wire telephone cable from the compartment where the Morningstar Tristar MPPT 60 charge controller lives, to the space under the fridge that houses my Magnatek converter.  It will attach to a remote monitor and control panel for the charge controller, which I will install tomorrow.  Right next to it, I will also be installing a 12 volt digital meter to keep an eye on my battery voltage.

And then I sacrificed my RV 30 amp extension cord, and ran it from my power/sewer compartment, to the compartment that houses the charge controller and the Dimensions pure sine wave inverter.  Tomorrow I'll install the 30 amp RV plug and gang box and cover in the power/sewer compartment, so that all I have to do is plug the RV power cord into that outlet when we are running on battery power and solar.

After that, I added cable clamps and zip ties to all of my wire runs, and battened everything down.

Finally, running on almost empty, I finished stringing the latest run of catapults, and stained them, leaving them on the stain rack to dry.

It was a long and busy day, with a few more very long and busy days to follow! 

I took a shower, put on my jammies, and that is it for today!!!

Whew am I beat!

??? ??? ??? ??? ???

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

The solar panel system is done! 

:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

Well...almost.  They sent me the wrong RJ-12 cable.  It is supposed to be a crossover cable (both sides wired in mirror image), but what they sent me was wired exactly the same on both sides.  I already ran the cable runs and got everything nice and neat, so I am not about to change it out...so I bought some RJ-12/RJ-11 ends, and will just flip the one side at the charge controller tomorrow morning so the interior monitor panel will work.  When I installed the monitor panel, I also installed a cheap digital volt meter next to the interior monitor panel to keep an eye on the battery voltage when boondocking.  And then I tested the solar array, and everything but the monitor panel works! 

Around 4pm, the Battery Guy came by and sold me my two new Trojan T-105 batteries (210.00 total for two batteries...sweet!) and hauled off the old Interstates...so I got those installed as well.  Weird thing with this RV:  Without 12 volts, not even the air conditioner works because of the thermostat...so I did the battery swap pretty quickly since it was 80 degress at 4pm here in Arizona.

I have the inverter mostly ready to install, but the cables were too short, so while I was out getting the RJ-12 ends at Lowes, I picked up 12 feet of 2/0 gauge wire...so tomorrow morning I'll get the inverter finished.  I did manage to install the plug end in my power compartment, so I can just plug the coach into that plug when running on inverter power.

And then I finished a huge run of catapult pistols, which Patti is going to string tomorrow, and I'll stain them in the afternoon.

So tomorrow I should only have an hour or so of work to finish installing the inverter and switching the RJ-12 cable end...and then I have to finish a run of oak catapults and catapistols, and 4 handheld ballistae, and get those stained as well.

That will leave Saturday for cleanup and packdown, which will probably spill over into Sunday.  I also have to change the air filter on the Itasca.

On Sunday, I have to weedwack our campsite and dispose of all the weeds (new Faire rules to help prevent fires during the summer off season...250.00 fine if we don't do it), but my buddy Steve lives on site during the summer (his wife is office manager), and he has a weedwacker I can borrow so I don't have to buy one...what the heck do I need a weedwacker for as a fulltime RVer?...LOL!

And then Sunday evening we will pull out into the parking lot, hook up the Jeep, and be ready to leave first thing Monday morning.  I can't wait for the hard work to be behind us so we can enjoy our off time on our way to the northern tip of Utah for our next show!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

I'm taking a short break before getting back to work on the oak catapults and catapistols.

And the solar power system and the inverter system is DONE!!! 

:D :D :D :D :D

By switching the plug end on the RJ-12 cable, the inside monitor for the charge controller works perfectly now, and the inverter works perfectly as well!  We are ready to boondock and give these Trojan batteries a workout (although I am pretty sure I'm going to have to add at least 2 more...I'll know better after we start using the system on our way to northern Utah).

So a little coffee break...and I'll go back to work in a few minutes.  The weather is being very kind to us this week...75 today and 74 tomorrow. 

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

Did you ever put biocide in the fuel?

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: Rickf1985 on April 05, 2019, 03:52 PM
Did you ever put biocide in the fuel?

Not yet.  I will when I get a chance, and have an extra fuel filter with me.

I was going to buy a new air filter today, since the indicator only has about 1/4 inch left...and they wanted 160 bucks for it!  For a freakin' air filter!  Too rich for my blood right now, since we don't get back to work until mid may.

Hey Rick...you know a lot about these diesels.  Is there a way to service the air filter to squeeze a bit more life out of it?  Shake it out?  Blow it out with our compressor?  We'll have PLENTY of money to work with when we reach upstate NY in July...it is our best money show by far.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

So after my short break, I jumped back on the catapults.  I managed to get all the oak catapults assembled, and all the parts ready for Patti to string.  She finished stringing all the catapults I finished yesterday, so I stained them at the end of the day.  I also got all the parts cut out for my last run of ballistae, which won't take long to finish tomorrow morning.

Then I went into town to get an air filter for the RV, and they wanted 160 bucks!  I still have 1/4 inch left on the indicator, so I'm going to wait a bit before shelling out that money...or try to find a cheaper alternative on the internet and have it delivered to me in Utah.  I can't see how they can justify an air filter for 160 freakin' bucks!  Yikes!!!  I'll also do some research to see if the air filter can be serviced to make it last longer, like blowing it out with a compressor or whatnot.

Tomorrow morning I'll finish the ballistae, stain them, stain the run of oak catapults that Patti is going to string tomorrow, and then start the great packdown of the workshop.  LOTS of trash and debris to get rid of, so I bought some big contractor clean up bags while I was out.  That should take all day tomorrow.  Tomorrow night we have to do laundry at the local laundromat. 

And then on Sunday, I have to borrow my friends weedwacker and mow the weeds down in our camp, rinse off the roof, solar panels, and sides of the RV, do my normal meticulous road checks, wash the doggos, wash the windshield, and take a shower.  And then I have to pull our RV out into the outer parking lot, hook up the Jeep, and have us ready to hit the road first thing Monday morning.

Getting closer to our working vacation!

:)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

That indicator is an airflow indicator and if it is showing a restriction then that is what you have, a restriction. If you try yo blow it out you will imbed the dirt deeper into the media and worse, you will push some through and open up small holes in the filter. This is just the beginning of what I warned you about with the preventative maintenance and keeping money set aside for the expensive parts. Seems you told me then that you did. Anyway your best bet is to find money for the filter, or leave it alone and suffer with the mileage hit. And that hit will get pretty bad pretty quick if the indicator is as far as you say. Between this and putting off that biocide you are going down a very expensive rabbit hole with this engine. Algea creates acids in the tank, not just dead bugs and dirt. That acid is going to wreak havoc with the injection pump and injectors and you have not SEEN expensive stuff yet, wait till you see those bills!!!! Same with the air filter, it can only hold so much and it is not a shop vac filter so don't try blowing it out. Once dirt starts getting through there go the rings. Diesel engines flow ten times the amount of air as a gas engine. The fact of the matter is that you now own an RV that is going to cost a LOT more than your old one to maintain. And if you have air brakes be SURE to open the drains on each air tank for a second or two each morning before starting out to drain any water in the tank. Another maintenance item for you to remember. D:oH!

ClydesdaleKevin

Thanks Rick.

We do have money set aside for this trip for emergencies (a couple of grand), but I was hoping I could put this off.  That said, I value your advice, so at the very least I'll get the biocide and a spare fuel filter before we leave.

So the biocide won't clog up the fuel filter?  I seem to remember you saying that it was more likely to get a clogged fuel filter if I didn't put in the biocide.  Should I put it in when I fill the tank on our way out on Monday?  And do they sell biocide at trucks stops like Pilot and Flying J?  That would make finding and getting it a lot more convenient before Monday.

As far as the air filter goes, I'll call around again this morning to see if I can source one locally.  If I can't find one, I'll get one from Amazon once we hit our destination in northern Utah.  The manual that came with our RV said the part number is Fram-CA6855, or Fleetguard AH1193, both of which they have on Amazon in the 100.00 range with free shipping.  I think the filter I found last night was so expensive because it was a Wix filter...and I might have bought it anyway, but the auto parts store that I went to was O-Reilly's, and they couldn't find it (even though their computer said they had one).  We have to leave first thing Monday morning, so I don't have time to get anything shipped here.  But now you have me worried, so I'll call around to the other auto parts stores here and see if they have one.

No air brakes on this thing...they are hydrolic with massive calipers.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.