Arizona 2019!!!

Started by ClydesdaleKevin, January 31, 2019, 01:31 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

ClydesdaleKevin

Time for a new chapter!  We are all hooked up and set up in camp, and the workshop is all set up.  We are getting ready for our season at the Arizona Renaissance Festival, and we have a lot of catapults to build!

I'll be doing little projects on the RV and some repairs as we go, and experimenting with things like the leveling jacks, etc.  And I will include lots of pictures!

That is it for now...I've got to get to work cutting out parts!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

In between building catapults, I did manage to do a couple of things to the RV.  First, I made a leg for the computer desk.  The desk isn't really made to be used full time, especially with my relatively heavy Panasonic Toughbook laptop that I use...so now it is stable and all the weight is supported.  The leg screws off and can be stowed in the desk when it is folded up for travel.

The used Atwood hot water heater propane control valve also arrived today, so I had time to install it and clean off the soot (again) from the hot water heater.  It works with no gas leaks...so we'll see if it soots up again or not.  If it does soot up again, then my next task would be to replace the regulator on the propane tank itself (process of elimination).  But so far, the water heater is working and the flame is a consistent blue.

I also scored a 35 gallon Thetford tote tank on Craigslist, new in the box, for 125.00 (I sold my remaining 7.62x54r ammo to a buddy of mine, since none of my guns are that caliber anymore, for 125.00).  SWEET!!!  The gray water is easy to get rid of, but the black tank is almost full (not bad for almost 2 weeks of use), so the tote tank will allow us to go 2 weeks between having the RV tanks pumped out (which is good, since those thieves are charging 65.00 a pop to pump out the tanks!).

I'll take some pictures soon and post them up!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

postman

Kevin did the views on Go Fund Me work for you. I am getting shares and donations but 0 for views?

You're saying $60 to pump out your tank. Is it a vac truck? Are you boondocking or something else?

ClydesdaleKevin

Hey Postman.  I don't really remember the number of views on GoFundMe and have since taken down the campaign since we are all set now.

The sanitation/porta-potty company that services the Arizona Renaissance Festival charges us vendors and participants 65.00 each time they pump out our RV tanks.  Renting a big tank from them is also highway robbery at 400.00 a month plus 150.00 each time they pump out the big tank.  No thank you!  They are a bunch of thieves, but we have no choice if we want to use our own RV bathrooms...and those crooks know it.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

Yay!  All the catapults and trebuchets are built and set up in the booth, and we are ready for opening day tomorrow!  Great weather predicted!

The used propane control valve on the Atwood hot water heater seems to be working fine, with no soot!  Before we leave I'll buy and install a new one, as well as new thermostat thingies...the used one was just to eliminate a component without spending 80 bucks on a new one if that wasn't the problem.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

If you still have the original single stage propane regulator or even a 15 year old double stage you might want to replace that also. Those things don't last all that long dependably. They are not that expensive either. Be sure to make sure whether you have a horizontal or vertical one, they are different.

TerryH

I changed mine two years ago, bought the replacement from a propane and appliance supplier and installer. They took the old one apart to show me the gunk it had collected over it's unknown lifetime. A lot more than I would have expected.
Their advice was, if you use your tank regularly to replace the regulator every five years.
Further, given the accumulation in mine they strongly suggested I clean all of the lines from the appliance connections to the regulator. Fill the line with methyl hydrate at the appliance, let it sit for a few minutes and then blow it out with compressed air.
Their suggestion, made sense to me.
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

Rickf1985

Mine was working but I was having problems with the refrigerator going out once in a while and over firing other times. Sometimes I could even see the extra power on the stove. Once replaced everything is even. Probably should clean out the lines though.

ClydesdaleKevin

Thanks for the advice guys!  I'll replace the regulator this coming week, as we are surrounded in this area with RV parts stores.  I want to install an Extend-A-Stay tee fitting anyway, so I might as well replace the regulator while I am at it.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

The "T" is always a good idea, I have one on mine but didn't you say you have an 80 lb or bigger propane tank? I can't picture you ever running out of propane between moves with a tank that big unless you are running the generator. You mentioned a big RV salvage yard in another thread, check with them for a diesel generator and if they have any see if they would be interested in a partial or full trade for your propane one. Why anybody would do that?! Propane generator? Of coarse that year that was built was right around when diesel fuel jumped up so that might have had something to do with it. People panic without thinking or researching to find out that diesel generator are fuel sippers.

ClydesdaleKevin

I scored a Hughes 2130 Autoformer 30 amp park power booster for 130 bucks off Craigslist today!  It works great!  The previous owner sold it because his new RV is 50 amps.  This should help to protect the air conditioners from low voltage (which happens a LOT at Renaissance Faire campgrounds!).  We've gone through a half dozen AC units since we became fulltimers, and all of them burnt out because of low voltage.



Tomorrow I'll be getting some pressure treated boards to make blocks out of when I go out and get the materials needed for building catapults.  They are going to be 12x12 squares to put under the leveling jack feet.  And then I'm going to attempt to deploy the leveling jacks!  I'll let y'all know how that works out...lol!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

Make sure all of the pivot points and any slides are well lubed otherwise you could have issues with retraction. Interesting little electrical part. I never quite understood how you get more power from less though. I understand how transformers work but if you step up power you step down current which means you could still shortchange the AC units because you would not have the amps needed even if you have the volts.

ClydesdaleKevin

Here you go, Rick, right from Hughes' website:

"Hughes Autoformers are designed to increase voltage to your RV and help eliminate low voltage damage to your appliances. Unlike a boost transformer, the ââ,¬Ëœsense circuitââ,¬â,,¢ in the Autoformer will adjust the output based on the load demand. For this reason you can run additional appliances on a 30-amp input. For example, a coffee pot and microwave each draw 1200 watts. Add wattage for the converter and/or a refrigerator ââ,¬â€œ about 800 additional watts ââ,¬â€œ and now you have 3200 watt demand. If you are only getting 100 volts from the supply, the maximum wattage would be 3000 watts. In this case, the Hughes Autoformer will boost voltage to give you 3600 watts to your RV!
[/color]The Autoformer output will self-adjust depending on the demand. With the increase in the voltage to the RV (through the Autoformer) the amperage demand will be lower and the overall performance will be greater. Your appliances will operate smoothly and efficiently without premature wear and damage to motors and compressors. With an operation range of approximately 94 to 125 volts input, the Autoformer will boost your RV voltage to safe & efficient levels.
[/color]Appliance failure can be costly, as well as frustrating and inconvenient. Many AC motors burn out due to higher-than-rated current draw caused by low voltage. This wasted current could be better used to operate another appliance at the same time the AC is being used. With low voltage you generally canââ,¬â,,¢t run anything else without risk of damage.
"

https://hughesautoformers.com/autoformer-university/why-do-you-need-an-autoformer/

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

"How Does It Work?At first we are tempted to say very ââ,¬Ëœwellââ,¬â,,¢. But this may not be the answer you are looking for![/size][/color]
[/size]
Autoformers are used in industries to stabilize voltage and lower the operating cost of equipment. The Autoformer has 5 windings: 2 primary and 3 secondary. All models have surge and spike protection. When the unit is in Automatic and the park or input voltage is 116 volts or below, the output is 10% over the input. When the input is over 118 volts, the output is 2% over the input.[/size][/color]The Autoformer DOES NOT take power from the park.[/color]It does not affect the park or input voltage, or make electricity.[/color]What it is doing is changing the voltage ââ,¬â€œ amperage relationship, lowering the amperage and raising the voltage. Since appliances run better on higher voltage, lower amperage, less overall power is used from the park, and better service is enjoyed from your RV[/color]An Autoformer running at full output (50amps) will use 1 amp, but will cause appliances to cycle more often and run cooler. This will use less total power from the park.[/color]Enjoy Your Autoformer Knowing You Are Doing Your Part For The Environment."[/color][/color]https://hughesautoformers.com/autoformer-university/how-does-it-work/
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

Ok, Here I copied from the manual you sent. You will notice that if the voltage drops below 90 volts the unit will go into bypass mode. This is the lower limit of most AC compressors anyway so basically it is not going to help you too much. The compressor will not like running at 95-100 volts but that will not damage it but 90 volts will. Hey, for the price you paid see if it works. If you have gone through that many AC unit then you have nothing to lose, besides another AC unit. D:oH!


Is the park voltage over 115 volts? Check the park power. See Measuring the Park Power on Page 11. The unit switches to by-pass mode when over 115 volts. It will boost when the park power drops below 113 volts. The Autoformer only gets its instructions to boost or bypass from the park power. It does not read or recognize the voltage inside your RV. If the park power is really low (reading below 90 volts), the Autoformer will not have enough power to work and will go into by-pass mode (and will not boost).

ClydesdaleKevin

I'm going to give it a shot and see if my AC units survive a few years at Renfaire campgrounds...lol!

I got back late from my materials run, but tried the leveling jacks:  No voltage getting to the control unit that has the on/off switch and indicator lights.  I checked the fuse and it was good, so I'll have to troubleshoot the wiring when I get a chance.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Rickf1985

The fuse was good but did you check to see if there was power to the fuse? Power or no power would tell you that you need to look before or after the fuse.

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: Rickf1985 on February 12, 2019, 09:20 PM
The fuse was good but did you check to see if there was power to the fuse? Power or no power would tell you that you need to look before or after the fuse.

I plan on taking the cover off today and checking the input voltage.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

So one thing that was bothering me was the lack of a light in the Norcold fridge.  I did some research, and it turns out that the light kit for the Norcold 6100 series refrigerators back in 1995 was an optional accessory.  The fridge comes pre-wired for the light, but mine doesn't have it.  Optional?  Geesh!

Anyhow, I looked up the part number, and it is unobtainium!  It is an obsolete parts kit and no longer made. 

But I found one on eBay!  It should be here on Friday...lol!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

Because I was busy with catapults, I didn't have time to troubleshoot the leveling jacks...but I did replace all four switches in the fancy brass and glass side lights.  There are two in the bedroom, and two in the living room...and all 4 had bad switches.  Now they all work and all have LED bulbs.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

I'm going to go look at, and probably purchase, 4 aluminum and stainless solar panel tilt mounts today that I found on Craigslist.  Wish me luck!  They look like just what I need/want for mounting smaller (80-120 watt) solar panels on the roof of our Itasca!







 

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

So the site keeps going down, but I got more stuff done.  The same guy that sold me the solar panel tilts is going to sell me 4 100 watt Kyocera monocrystaline panels, new and in the box, for 300 buck, which I will be picking up next week.

I also installed the light in the fridge.  what in the world was it optional?  What kind of cheapo greedy idiots ARE Norcold to offer a fridge light as an option?  Anyhow, it works great.

I also scored a roof rack basket (64x40) for the Jeep on the cheap...which is where the spare tire is going to go.  I got it assembled in the workshop today, but it is cold and raining here, so installing it will have to wait.

I was going to troubleshoot the 12 volts going to the leveling jack control board and the furnace, but my negative lead on my Fluke died totally...so I ordered a new set of leads today and will fix the leveling jacks and furnace once they arrive.

It is raining cats and dogs here in Gold Canyon, AZ!  And MAN is it cold outside!  50 degrees, rainy and windy.  BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

My new test leads for my Fluke should be here today, so I can troubleshoot and repair the furnace and the leveling jacks this week. 

The roof basket for the roof of the Jeep came out great!  I used the factory U-bolts that came with the rack to attach it to the factory roof rack...and then butted up my Yakima roof bars to the front and back of the basket, and used 8 more U-bolts I bought at Ace Hardware to attack the basket to the Yakima rack as well.  It is now super strong and will easily hold the weight of the 33" spare tire.  While I was at it, I figured out a neat way to install the Hi-Lift jack and my trail shovel to the rack basket sides that is strong, but also allows a quick release setup.  It looks sweet!  I'll take and post some pics soon.  I also bought diamond plate armor for the rocker panels under the doors and for the bottom of the doors.  I primed them last week, and today I'll be painting them flat black...and installing them sometime this week.

And that is it for now!  We are going to take the pups out today to the local "ghost town" and then for a picnic.  And of course a long walk.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ClydesdaleKevin

So the guy I was going to buy 4 solar panels from (one 100W panel and three 90W panels) flaked out and wanted to charge me almost 2.00 a watt.  So I just ordered 4 brand new 100W HQST monocrystalline panels off of Amazon for 99.00 each with free 2nd day shipping.  The customer reviews look great!



Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.