Installed an Edelbrock 1904

Started by tarifachris, June 17, 2017, 03:58 PM

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tarifachris

Since I needed a re-manufactured Quadrajet anyway, I decided to buy an Edelbrock 1904 Quadrajet...

I was reading so many horror stories about remanufactured quadrajets (filled with parts from different quadrajets),
that I didn't mind to spend 320 USD for a remanufactured prestine Edelbrock.


I just drove 1300 miles from Phoenix AZ to South Padre Island TX, and this thing is the real deal!
It feels like I installed TBI fuel injection...
I drove last year the exact same route with my old quadrajet and the difference is incredible. It is the same
casting, but the internals are different - even the vacuum ports are not on the same position and it has a much
stronger accelerator pump. The stream from the primary jets looks like fuel injection!

Fact is I didn't had to downshift one time the hole 1300 miles!!! Last year I did the 5 - 7 degree grades in second gear with 40 mph
and this year I could still accelerate on the grades.

I drove 99% of the trip with cruise control - maybe not good for fuel consumption, but much safer to drive. I didn't have to accelerate downhill
to catch the next hill - instead it coasted downhill 60mph and uphill 57mph...

Anyway if anyone has to change his carburetor I can recommend this one... Now I have to figure out how to change the springs in my governor
from my transmission to change the shift points...



Rickf1985

The problem is that they have not made that carb in many years. I also have one of them. They stopped making them around 05 from what the guy at Edelbrock told me. Just not enough demand for them.

circleD

I believe that I put a 1911 on my 454 to replace my quadra jet. It drives great now.

Rickf1985

Edelbrock 1411 is their modified and very successful version of the old Carter AFB carburetor. It is a fantastic carb because it is infinitely adjustable and most of those adjustments can be made without disassembling the carb.

circleD

Yea, it's nice. Able to tune it easily.

tarifachris

To adjust my idle mixture screws i hooked up my vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum - great tool to analyze the health of
your engine (look at attached pic)

I am happy that my engine had the appearance that it is still in good shape, but I had trouble to adjust the idle mixture screws...

When I started the engine in fast idle at 1200 RPM I had 21 hg vacuum - when it went to PARK idle at 800 RPM it went
down to 18 hg vacuum. With adjusting the idle mixture screws i could run it to 19 hg vacuum at 800 RPM.
Strange wise if i go to 1000 RPM the manifold vacuum is exactly 21 hg.
Is this normal?

Rickf1985

Perfectly normal but too high for idle, it will be hard on the transmission going into gear and cause a lot of trans heat sitting in traffic in gear. Idle should be around 750.

tarifachris

O.K. thank you. I thought the target is 600 RPM in gear - which I have thru a 200 RPM drop from P to D...

This makes sense...

ErikTande


This thread is making me want to throw a new carb on.   There's a used 1411 near me too for $50....

MotorPro

Remember the 1411 will not bolt on the stock intake manifold without an adapter

Rickf1985

"Needs accelerator pump, cleaned up and rebuilt. That can add almost the price of buying a new one considering the condition of most carbs I have seen with that condition. Keep in mind you will need to buy an adapter to run that carb on the spreadbore manifold. See below for a new one. Great carbs but I see a pattern of you starting to throw parts at this thing and that is bad. You will get yourself into a position where you do not know what the real problems are because you are changing too many big items all at the same time. You need to diagnose the problem and take small steps to repair it, not throw a ton of different parts at it and hope it works.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1411

circleD

It's not just a bolt on and go addition. There are some threads by me and Clydesdale Kevin. I had to use some of the brackets from the old stuff and modify them. Then your air cleaner is higher making your PCV hose an issue and the other one on the driver side. Bit it's worth it.

ErikTande

Quote from: Rickf1985 on July 02, 2017, 08:56 AM
Great carbs but I see a pattern of you starting to throw parts at this thing and that is bad.
I've put on new tires, a fuel pump for the generator (it didn't have one) and 2 fuel filters.   I linked that carb to see what everyone thought.

I wouldn't call that "throwing parts at it."  I'm just doing maitenence to make sure it can handle a roadtrip.   Just wait until I get the itch to throw small turbo on this thing and run a little boost to help climb hills.   Then you'll see throwing parts at it.  :D ;-)


I just like asking a lot of questions and I don't know jack about carburetors : D

Rickf1985

Do your research on how to turbocharge a carburetor, You will find there is a WHOLE lot of fabrication involved due to having to pressurize the entire carburetor body. Oh, And stock up on head gaskets. W%

circleD

Instead of a turbo, get a Gear Vendor for the transmission. It works wonders on these rigs. Yes it's pricey and some custom work but wow.
The 1411 and Gear Vendor makes drive like a regular truck.

tarifachris

I always wanted a air/fuel ratio meter... So I bought one second hand at ebay - 210$. Not cheap, but a great way to test my Edelbrock carburetor!

Tested it on my fuel injected car and no surprise it runs in every RPM range at AFR 14.7!

Right now my RV is in storage - so I tested it in N without a load.

I didn't wanted to weld a bung for the O2 sensor in my exhaust - so I used a exhaust clamp.

At Idle                 AFR 15.3
At acceleration    AFR 14.0
At 2000 RPM        AFR 14.3 - 14.5
At 2900 RPM        AFR 14.3

Looks like I run slightly lean at idle and have to adjust the Idle mixture screws!
Next year I will test it on the road and under load... And log AFR with RPM...

I will report back then!

Rickf1985

I can ASSURE you those readings are not accurate!! No way is a big block Chevy with a carburetor running that lean without misfiring. If that probe is only as long as what I see in the package it will be picking up outside air being drawn into the end of the pipe from engine pulses. The standard emissions probe is about two feet long. And on some pipes like 2 1/2" duals I would have to put a shop towel partly into the end of the pipe to keep it from drawing air in and create just a tiny bit of back pressure so there was nothing but exhaust in the pipe.
If you want an accurate reading on the A/F ratio you will need a wide band O2 sensor and gauge and it will need to be mounted in the pipe as close to the manifold exit as possible.