Roadside jacking, blocking, emergency kit

[tmsnyder]

The thread regarding safely blocking up an RV has me thinking now about what to have on hand in the event of a flat tire or roadside emergency. 


I'm planning on buying a pair of bottle jacks just for the RV, these have the advantage of high capacity and small storage size.  Is there a better jack option that I should consider?  Mine's a Class A with tag axle which makes jacking up the rear a bit interesting.  And I can't find the original jack / lugwrench setup.


I'm also planning on bringing blocking along, made from a few 6x6's cut into 18" or 24" pieces.  And a few 2x6s cut up for making up shorter heights and creating a level base.   If I get pine instead of pressure treated they won't weigh as much.  I'm not a fan of jack stands, metal on metal is a slippery proposition imo.  I like wood.


Bulletproof wheel chocks are needed as well. I have to invest in these.


Other basic supplies like:  Flares.  I have a 3/4" drive socket set with breaker bar (and pipe just in case) and my regular tools (1/4, 3/8, 1/2" socket sets, wrenches, nut drivers, screwdrivers, and electrical stuff). 


And if all else fails I have AAA Premiere with RV rider.  Cell phone.  And lots of cash and credit cards.


Basically, what recommendations or insight do you have for equipment for roadside jacking and blocking up in order to change a tire?

[Gary T]

Get a torque multiplier. This makes removal of lug nuts easy.
I have that I got ebay for just under $50.00 with free shipping.
The name on box is tool luxe.
I spent a full day to removing 1 lug nut on my motor home, order this and did the rest in 4 min.
But be careful when tighten, as this can really over torque them fast.

[Rickf1985]

If you need a torque multiplier then the lugs were tightened WAY too tight. The torque varies by model but none of them are over 180 Ft. lbs. That can be accomplished with a breaker bar and a tree foot pipe with little effort. In a roadside flat situation you are only jacking up one wheel and you are not under the vehicle so all that extra blocking you are dragging around is costing you storage room and mileage. You should have the spare ready to go so you jack it up, pull the flat and put the spare right on. Done. You never get under the vehicle and it will remain stable because all of the other tires are on the ground. Chock the front wheels for a rear flat and the rears for a front flat. If you have Triple A then sit inside and make coffee and have them do the work, that is what you are paying for! They have air jacks, air wrenches and young backs.

[M & J]

How long is a "tree foot pipe" Rick?   I'm sure you meant three foot?

[Rickf1985]

You live in Kentucky and you have NEVER seen a tree's foot?!!! Hm?

[M & J]

Never used one for that purpose.

[Gary T]

Rick my travco has budd wheels and require around 450 lbs.
To break one lug nut lose took me most of one day. I order a torque multiplier and used as soon I received
it and only took four mins to do the rest. Only ways 25 lbs .

[LJ-TJ]

Don't know if this will work or not but here goes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tooluxe+torque+multiplier&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiB3bm3o-TTAhXm5IMKHeogDdIQ_AUICCgD&biw=1078&bih=582

[CapnDirk]

Seeing them on Ebay for $35-$40.  A must have for something with big tight... well, Ill leave it there.    :)rotflmao

[TerryH]

Or there is this, courtesy of a post from Dave a few years ago:

For the P30
5 lug 9/16" stud single wheel torque =  120lbs
8 lug 9/16" stud dual wheel torque =  140lbs
10 lug 5/8" stud dual wheel torque =  200lbs

A torque wrench is calibarated at a distance of 12".
100lbs of torque = 100lbs of force (weight) applied 12" distance from the center of the bolt.

If you double the distance (ie 24") then that same 100lbs of weight at 24" applies 200lbs of force at the bolt center.  At 36", 100lbs of force = 300lbs at the bolt.  etc., etc.

I weigh 150lbs, so if a sit on a breaker bar (galvanizd pipe) 36" distance from the stud center, I am appling 450lbs of torque to the lug nut.  I use a 48" bar so I do not have to apply as much force.  I also use a 3/4 drive socket set to ensure I am not stressing the socket set to much.

Dave

So, a simple piece of pipe, measured correctly and placed over your torque wrench is really all you need. Likely won't have to buy anything.
"Give me a lever and I can move the world"
Without Ebay.

[Rickf1985]

I could see have a multiplier for nuts needing 450 ft. lbs. but there are VERY FEW RV's out there that require that kind of torque. Granted, If you want ease of use then a multiplier is great but if not used carefully you can snap studs right off. And most people have never seen one so they do not realize you do not just put it on the nut and turn, there is setup involved. You need to be able to secure the reaction bar and then you need to turn the actuator handle while keeping everything aligned. To a mechanic it is second nature but to a non mechanic it could be daunting and or dangerous. I am a master mechanic............................. I have Triple A heavy towing and I will call them.

[LJ-TJ]

My Nuts are torqued to 200 ft lbs. Hm? Should be easy to get off.

[tmsnyder]

150lb?  wow, I can't remember being that weight, maybe when I was 16 or so.  Thanks but fortunately (unfortunately?) I won't need a torque multiplier, just a 18" piece of pipe which is in my toolbox and about 1/2 of my weight will be good for 180ft-lb


I'm bringing blocking along not just for a tire change, but just in case there's something requiring me to get under the coach.  But even for a tire change to get the jack onto a flat, stable surface and at a height that works since it doesn't have a very long stroke.


I've spoken to people from downstate NY, I knew what was meant by a 'tree foot pipe',   fuhgehtabouht-it!

[Rickf1985]

Well, Dat is a "different" Tree foot pipe" wit' a different purpose but you got the ideer.

[TerryH]

Would dat be a tree foot pipe wit tape on da handle for grip and a wrist strap so youse don't loose it?

[M & J]

Thats not Kentucky speak FYI.

[Rickf1985]

Would dat be a tree foot pipe wit tape on da handle for grip and a wrist strap so youse don't loose it?

Dat be Da one.

Mike, it is the northern version of "The big Stick".

[Gary T]

Rick your right about tighting the lug nuts. I have yet to figure on how to get correct torque
But I do know that I will take my motorhome to a tire shop and have them check for proper torque after I put wheels back on.

[CapnDirk]

Rick your right about tighting the lug nuts. I have yet to figure on how to get correct torque
But I do know that I will take my motorhome to a tire shop and have them check for proper torque after I put wheels back on.

That's the way I do it.  I'm pretty confident I can get enough torque on it to keep it from falling off until the next tire/truck stop.  After all, how often would you have to do it?  And many places will torque them down for free.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

My nuts are 300 -350 foot lbs, so us light weights need the xtra feet of so

[M & J]

Everyone should start using the term "lugnuts".......

[joanfenn]

I don't know if Dave is bragging or complaining W%

[Rickf1985]

I KNEW it was coming. W%

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

 W%