How do I operate my furnace? - A major learning experience!

Started by perlgurl, April 02, 2016, 10:08 PM

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perlgurl


I bought a 1973 D18 Brave at the end of last summer, sort of on a whim.  The previous owner was using it as a "driveable tent" but has said that all the things worked (propane, stove, fridge, water, etc) except the shower when he bought it, but they never used those amenities and I neglected to ask about how to use them so now I'm fumlbling trying to figure out how to get my RV ready for summer use. 

I'm trying to understand the furnace.  I've got propane hooked up and working with two other applicances so I think my issue is either that I'm missing a valve or something else with the furnace.

I've got the 1973 Cheiftain manual and am using that, but the furnace section (see attached) is incredibly vague. It says under the "Lighting - Manual" , step 3 to "Turn gas on at LP bottle, main valve and pilot valve"

I'm confused by this.  The LP bottle is turned on and I can find the pilot vale on the furnace by I'm not sure what the "main valve" is or where it is located.

I also cannot seem to find a name on the furnace.  It's older and quite rusty looking on the outside......

I am looking at the forums and using the search to try to figure out what I'm doing wrong, but it's not clear to me yet so  suggestions/links to pdfs or youtube videos are appreciated!

LJ-TJ

Lets try this again. What's the problem? Have you got a picture of the furnace?

perlgurl

Photos of the actual furnace.  Second photo has what I believe is the pilot valve. I can get this to turn, but it's really hard and I had to use a leatherman tool.   

perlgurl

This is the LP turn on at the bottle in step 3, I believe:

perlgurl

My confusion is in the instructions in step 3 it says turn on the MAIN VALVE. I not understanding where or what that is....

SLEETH

main valve should be the tank valve

perlgurl

Quote from: SLEETH on April 03, 2016, 06:20 PM
main valve should be the tank valve


That's what thought and figured the instructions were just worded poorly. 

Darn, that means I have something going on with the furnace since I can't get the pilot to light. 

Rickf1985

I am not sure about that furnace but the valve you were having trouble with appears to be the main shut off for the gas feed to the furnace, not part of the furnace itself. And in the position shown in the picture the gas is turned off going to the furnace. There should be a furnace control valve somewhere between that valve and the pilot. Follow the copper line from there towards the furnace and see where it goes.

perlgurl

I've traced the copper wire.  I first pulled the shelf off the top of from above the furnace (it's in a closet) and was able to see the label on the top.  I'm still not entirely sure what type this furnace is (I need to go wipe it down so I can read it better), but the photo shows some directions that might be of help once I clean it off. 


Anyway, the copper runs from the unit (second photo), to the valve in the front (thrid photo, valve shown in "on" position) then under the fridge and to an outside access panel where it dead ends with another valve and what appears to be a fixture that should maybe go on a rubber hose (fourth photo).

I'm not sure what to do from here and I can't get the valve to turn so I'm thinking I'm going to put some wd-40 on it before I break it off. 

Suggestions? Or can anyone identify the furnace yet?
Any ideas on where this is supposed to go? 

perlgurl

Oh, there is the word Suburban on the outside panel where I think the furnace exhaust comes out, so maybe that is the brand name of the furnace!

TerryH

PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of what you are doing or trying to do, remember you are working in very close proximity to propane.
Ensure that the propane tank valve is closed before you even think of using any tool made of or containing or contacting steel. Ensure adequate ventilation is maintained.
I realize that this is a learning curve for you, but steel on steel can create a spark you won't see and can have deadly results.
We all want to help you here, not attend your funeral.
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

perlgurl

Thanks for the concern!

I am very aware of the fact that I'm dealing with flamable and explosive-able (I think I just made that word up).  I'm being super careful and keep turning the propane off until I'm ready to light the pilot. I think that is the best thing I can do to be safe.

I did clean off the labels and find better instructions on them, plus most of the model number.  One of the differences in instructions between what was printed on the label and what is in the 1973 Cheiftain (I have a 1973 Brave so I thought there might be a discrepancy) is the label said turn on the thermostat to low then try lighting it (the manula said keep it off). 

I'm also at a point where I'm not sure I can do much more on my own and may have to break down and either live without heat (I live in Alaska and even in the summer it get chilly in some places I plan to go, so that kind of sucks) or take it to the shop to be looked at. I'm done fussing with it for today though and propane and all valves are off. 

TerryH

Happy to hear you are cautious.
First test for propane leakage - the nose knows.
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

LJ-TJ

Ok, If you go to the members area you'll see a title Furnaces Manuals. You can down load the manual for your furnace. It is a suburban and by the look of the Model Number it will be one of the following.NT- 12S   NT- 16S   NT-20SNT-24SP   NT-30SP  NT-34SPNT-25K   NT-30K   NT-35KNT-42T. The last picture with the spade end on it looks like it is in what was once you generator bay and that line if you follow it back underneath will go to your gas tank. It use to supply fuel to your generator. If you smell propane. Take a spritzer bottle with dish soap and water and carefully spray around the different joints and valves leading to the furnace. If you see bubbles then you have a propane leek. Try to tighten the fitting or you may have to replace it. Hope this helps some. Hm?

SLEETH

soap & water is the way to go=the bubbles tell all

Rickf1985

In order to light the pilot there is going to be a button or possibly the indicator wheel itself which will have to be held down while lighting the pilot. Once the pilot lights you will have to continue to hold the button for 15 to 20 seconds as the thermocouple heats up sensing the flame. If the line is full of air when you go to light the pilot you will see your match flame blowing around but not lighting, you will have to be persistent, a butane firestarter is good here, no matches to burn out. If there is air in the line it will take a while to purge out. Do NOT hold the button without the lighter in position or gas will build up in there. You will not like walking around without eyebrows when it lights off! If it will not light in a couple of minutes then something is wrong.

LJ-TJ

 :)rotflmao Hehehehehehehe Good points Rick. D:oH!

perlgurl

There is a "pushing with lighting the pilot" button (you can't see it very well in the previous photos since the red cover is gone so it's just metal now, but it's pointed out in this photo)  that I've been pushing while trying to light with a butane stick lighter.  I've held that thing with the lighter in there for a really long time to no avail. I also don't smell any leaking.  I've got a pretty sensitive nose so I don't think it's leaking, in fact I don't think it's getting any propane at all!  I'm perplexed by this copper tubing that comes from out of the furnace past the main value to the outside panel that is attached to nothing (attached again here). 

I found another manual for the furnace last night and it's didn't help me figure out that copper tubing that goes out to nothing, but I'll check the files to see if it's the same.  I'll try the soapy water test later today too. 

If I knew what I was doing I'm sure I would be done already, but the learning curve (and fear factor about blowing myself up) is steep on this. 

perlgurl

Red button for lighting pilot.

perlgurl

Why does this go nowhere? I think it might be my problem and I'm thinking it is actually supposed to be the source of the fuel, but is is normal to have propane tanks on both sides of the RV?

SLEETH

looks like a water drain of some sorts

legomybago

That's an automotive radiator drain pet cock on the mystery line.....I doubt anti freeze comes out of it..... :P
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

Froggy1936

Hi, If you open the valve on the line to no where what comes out ?  Gasoline or Propane ?  If Gasoline it was a fuel line for a Generator. If Propane it was for a hose to an outside grill !  The model no sure looks like NT16 S  Are you sure that the missing red button is the one for lighting the pilot ? If so you can use a piece of wood to hold it in (easier on the finger) No light , a possible problem is a plugged pilot flame hole They are very small (caution do not enlarge it) Requires removal and compressed air to open if plugged Best of luck Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

Rickf1985

That was probably a hillbilly add on to hook up a grill to the system, that connection is not safe in a propane system. That is not your problem, it does actually look like it is a water valve! A hint on the other valves in the propane lines, the handle will tell you whether the gas is on or off by the direction it is pointed, it the handle is inline with the tubing then the gas is flowing but if it is turned 90 degrees to the tubing then the gas is off. Picture the handle as an arrow. Make sure all the valves are open.

On edit, I did not see Franks post until after I posted this about the gasoline line to the genny. I was assuming you had traced the line to the propane system. Anyway you know our thoughts on that. As Frank said it may be clogged, Propane spiders, They love the tiny passages in propane systems for some reason. Yes, They are actual spiders but I doubt they are actually called that. :D They do not bite, or at least I have never been bitten and I have had them on me plenty, so you may need to get it apart and cleaned. Those heat exchangers can rust out also so that has to be inspected too, or at best be dang sure you have a new CO detector before using the unit.

perlgurl

It's pretty dirty in there and I'm thinking my next step is to pull the whole thing out, open it and clean it before reassembly.  I can clean the pilot flame hole then too. 

Wish me luck.  And yes, the propane is turned off :)