Trying to get my old Norcold working again

Aaarrghh · February 19, 2016, 08:50 AM

Hi, this is my first post! I've been working on my TARDIS for almost a year, and have finally got 'round to the fridge. I've read the Q&A about burping. Someone wrote, "the method to try prior to putting the effort into removing and burping it is to simply plug it in and let it run this can take anywhere from 3-10 days...." and I wonder if I should try it. On AC, the tubes get hot but the fridge fins stay room temp. Is there any danger to trying this?

The fridge hasn't been used for at least 12 years. It is a Norcold model 776EG3. I've had trouble finding information about it. Even the guy at Camping World didn't have that model# in his computer!

The gauge (in the photo) seems to show good pressure. Is that an indication the cooling unit is OK?

joanfenn · February 19, 2016, 09:00 AM

That is odd I punched in that number on google and came up with info from sears direct. Could it be a replacement fridge for RVs sold by sears?

jeno · February 19, 2016, 09:32 AM

Unless I'm mistaken that gauge is for the propane gas pressure

87Itasca · February 19, 2016, 10:45 AM

That is your leak detector gauge. The test is to shut off the propane valves at the fridge, furnace, and hot water heater, then move the black pointer to where the red dial reads. Then shut the valve on the tank, wait 5 minutes, and check the reading. If it drops any, you have a leak that needs to be found and repaired.

Aaarrghh · February 19, 2016, 11:51 AM

Thanks for the info about Sears Direct. They show parts diagrams that will be very helpful.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/776eg3/0761/0413140.html
It may have been a replacement, especially if other parts houses don't list that model.

I'll try the propane leak test. The red dial is for "inches of water" and goes from zero to fifteen. It currently reads 12. The black is labeled "ounces per square inch" and reads up to about 8 and a half. Does sound like propane pressure.

Is there any way to tell if my cooling unit is OK? It doesn't seem to be rusted badly.

Rickf1985 · February 20, 2016, 10:07 AM

Are you making sure the RV is perfectly level before using the fridge? If it is not level you could burn up the tubes. Or this may have already happened. The only way to check it is to have it level and get it running. If the tubes are getting hot then it should cool if the gas and fluid is moving in the tubes while level.

DRMousseau · February 20, 2016, 10:36 PM

YES!!! A reasonably level unit is important!!!
If not reasonably level, the "boiler" can become overheated, and can result in irreversible internal damage that can cause blockages.

IMO, these refrigerators are really "cool"!!! Many are perplexed by fact that heat is used to obtain freezing and cooling temps, AND with no moving parts!!!

All you can really do is make sure everything is reasonably clean, and there are no obstructions in the vent or any accumulations of debris anywhere,... then jus "fire it up"!!! They either work inside, or they don't!! Sounds like you have adequate LP pressure too. If you can get it to heat, by either electric or propane, than the external systems are functioning and that's about all you can really do with 'em.

I've known some who have experienced such blockages on failing or damaged units as described above,... they'll fired 'em up, and if cooling isn't significant by the next day, they will resort to gentle tapping to hopefully loosen the blockages. They may, or may not, begin to flow,... and they usually don't continue to function reliably, and may fail again on the next cooling cycle. At this point, they don't expect it to work at all the next time, when they need it to, and it's really time to replace sealed cooling unit,... there is no repair!

After 12yrs of sitting unused, it's kinda hard to say if it still works,... but they often do!!!!

Aaarrghh · February 22, 2016, 06:54 AM

Thanks for all the good advice. Frankly, I'll try anything before plunking down $450 for a replacement cooling unit.

I tried again to start it on AC, but now there's no heat!. The owners manual (yes I have it!) lists some things to check about that, and as far as the cooling unit goes, it says to take it out and lay it on its left side for a day, to mix the ammonia and water. I still need to clean the gas burner and try to get gas not air.

One other question is, is the board still good? Several years ago I had repairs done to my generator, and didn't realize till too late it was putting out way too much voltage. I had to replace the board in the furnace to get that working again. So I need to at least pull the board and see if there are any fuses to check.

Y'all have been very helpful. I've been refinishing some of the wooden cabinet doors while thinking about the fridge. I have a much better understanding of the unit and what I need to do.

tiinytina · February 22, 2016, 09:33 AM

it does sound as if the ammonium perchlorate has settled and has clogged something up. Our old unit sat unused many years and would take 3-4 days to cool. We removed and did attempt to "burp" it turning it every day for a week... but it never did start working properly... ours was $1200 to replace with a matching new unit and we ended up having to remove the door and door frame to get the old one out and new one in. but I can literally turn it on and it will be cooling within an hour for lock and load time.