How hard is it to replace kingpins?

Started by Thenoob, October 27, 2015, 09:37 PM

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Thenoob

Last thing on main list

How tough are these kingpins to replace? I do have a fair amount of play when jacked up and although I'll grease the chassis tomorrow, I know the stock pins are still in there and should be changed out.

I think I have the correct part number, I think I can tackle it but I'd like to hear from folks who have sworn yelled and screamed their way through this process.

Thenoob

Big reason I ask
Is the manual says one thing, and then there is real life

xerofall

I had my mechanic do it since I'm not mechanically inclined. He said to buy the brass ones, not the nylon ones. He told me it was "a bear" to replace, probably because of the age. Sorry I can't assist more.

Elandan2

After moving from BC to Ontario, I had to have the motorhome inspected.  The king pins had to be replaced among other repairs.  The garage doing the inspection said that they couldn't use floating bushings (nylon) and pass the inspection, and had to put in the bronze type.  The problem is that they have to be "line reamed" after they have been installed.  In this case, they have a mobile repair truck do the work.  BTW, the garage doing the inspection was a heavy truck repair shop and do this all the time.  So after all that explanation; I would find someone who can do the job for you.  Rick
Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Thenoob

Yup I've visioned a lot of swear words and banging metal.

I might still try it.  It's been the last thing on my inspection list, although I've "passed" it's been strongly recommended by me mechanic to tackle it.

Thenoob

Guessing my 2.5 ton floor jack is not going to cut it for lifting the front? I've got big 6,000lb stands but how much does the front of this rig weigh?   Or I guess how big of a floor jack are you guys using?


MotorPro

Before you get the parts and rip it apart be sure you have a shop lined up to hone or ream the bushings.

gadgetman

If it is a old dodge chassis you will need a reamer where you do the job as the bushings are in the straight axle.


If you use the delron plastic bushings you wont have to ream anything. I used the metal bushings in mine and bought a 90.00 reamer for them.

1990HR


I bought a 20 ton jack and 12 ton jack stands to work on the MH. A lot cheaper than a funeral or emergency room visit.

Thenoob

Holy crap!

That's a big jack! And stands!  It is a dodge chassis.  If I remember correctly front end 4200lbs? My two 6 ton stands can handle that all day , maybe I'll jack with a 3 ton jack one side at a time.

legomybago

You don't "need" a 20 tonner in your case, but they are nice...That's what I use also, only because the rear of my FMC is really heavy, and the jack points are in front of the rear tires.
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

Rickf1985

I use a 12 ton and a 20 ton jack. You will find real fast that pumping that little jack at max weight is going to be real tough. And I don't like trusting these jacks at the max rating, I want fudge factor! You are going to find that unless you have the right bushing drivers and a portable press it is going to be a nightmare job. If you are careful and very patient you can get in the hole and cut a slot in the old bushing so it will slide out but do NOT cut into the housing! Getting the new bushing in without damaging it without a press might be tough. Sometimes they go in smoothly but other times they have to be pressed with a lot of force. It can be done, I have done it, when I was much younger and could swing a hand sledge for hours. The potential is high for damaging the new bushing that way though. You would be money ahead to take it and have it done.

TerryH

Quote from: Thenoob on October 28, 2015, 02:52 PM
Holy crap!

That's a big jack! And stands!  It is a dodge chassis.  If I remember correctly front end 4200lbs? My two 6 ton stands can handle that all day , maybe I'll jack with a 3 ton jack one side at a time.

Please take this as meant - advice only. The last thing anyone here wants to read is that you are in the hospital, somewhat flattened.
Jack stand ratings are for dead weight - not dead body, but weight. Means if your stand has a 10" X 10" base that is totally flat on the ground and you lower the rated weight on to it centered exactly over the center point you are fine. Raise one side of your vehicle and lower the weight angled on to the jack stand (which was manufactured in China) you have far exceeded it's capabilities.
A 3 ton jack should be able to lift 3 tons in a straight lift. Your RV has it's total weight distributed over 4 points - front and rear tires as contacting the surface they rest on. Raise (jack) one of those 4 points transfers a portion of the remaining 75% of the weight to the jack. Also adds an angle to the raising point which will proportionally reduce the lifting rating of your jack and will reduce it's stability.

Bottom line - if your front axle weight is X pounds - double that for your jack stands. If your heaviest axle weight is Y pounds - double that for your jack.
Use adequate blocking under the jack and ALL jack stands. Ideally 12 x 12 with plywood screwed and glue to both sides to prevent splitting. Block your offside tires.
Again, advice only. Having your unit fall while you are underneath is not the best way to loose weight.
It is not our abilities that show what we truly are - it is our choices.
Albus Dumbledore

DaveVA78Chieftain

[move][/move]


Thenoob

Roger that
I've jacked up plenty of cars/trucks etc... Bigger rigs always trip me out.

thanks for that link in going to digest all that Info

rushenge


For what it's worth, a heavy truck repair shop in St. Paul, MN recently replaced the original kingpins on our 1972 Dodge M300 with just over 80,000 miles. The Brave is smaller than vehicles they normally repair, but one of the owners said he was interested in doing the work, and they are located just 1.5 miles from home.  As a warning, he said they normally budget 8 hours to replace kingpins on a semi or coach bus.  Shop time is $85 an hour.  On the Brave, both kingpins where stuck and difficult to remove.  Identifying and finding the correct parts took some time. NAPA did not have a replacement kit locally, but O'Reilly Auto had a kit on the shelf.  In the end, they me charged 12 hours for labor - that included an inspection of the front steering and suspension.  Total cost was $1,020 for labor plus $86 for parts.

I've done everything else on the Dodge, but for me, having a shop do the the king pins was worth the money.