LP Leak at the tank valve

Started by Brianpaul77, May 04, 2015, 09:06 PM

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Brianpaul77

Another topic is turning into a conversation on this problem, so figured I'd post here with info and picture.  While I'm fairly capable and confident of doing a lot of repairs myself, I have zero experience with a RV propane system, and isn't something I really want to guess around about.

So my issue, when I turn the spigot on my LP tank to release propane to the system, it immediately starts leaking from the spigot, you can feel it on your hand as you are turning.  It continues to leak, getting worse as you continue to open it, then finally decreasing as you get it completely open, though it does still leak slightly while fully open, as confirmed by soapy bubbles.

Any insight into this would be appreciated, and sorry if this is a pretty basic fix for most of you.  Ironically, I called the local propane suppliers about my issue and they referred me to the local RV service centers, who in turn referred me back to the propane suppliers.  Nobody wants to touch this thing!

[smg id=7110 type=preview align=center width=400 ]

Oz

Oh boy.  And getting put in the rotating door by the service companies doesn't make it any better. 

First and foremost, you'll need to completely empty the tank.

From your description, you can tell where the leak is coming from exactly, and it sounds like a seal on the valve shaft, which should be able to be replaced.  So, if you remove the entire valve assembly, you should be able to take that to the propane people and get any and all new seals you need  (fingers crossed on that), and you can then replace the valve assembly.


1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

gpw9552

OZ put his finger on the problem.  If you don't feel comfortable with doing it, these are the people I use for parts and advice.


Lichtsinn Motors in Forest City, Iowa
(800) 343-6255

Brianpaul77

Quote from: Oz on May 04, 2015, 09:14 PM
Oh boy.  And getting put in the rotating door by the service companies doesn't make it any better. 

First and foremost, you'll need to completely empty the tank.

From your description, you can tell where the leak is coming from exactly, and it sounds like a seal on the valve shaft, which should be able to be replaced.  So, if you remove the entire valve assembly, you should be able to take that to the propane people and get any and all new seals you need  (fingers crossed on that), and you can then replace the valve assembly.

This is what I was wondering, if I would need to completely drain the tank.  I assumed as much, but was hoping for the other answer. :)  So then how do I go about getting this thing drained? 

Oz

I've had to do it myself, although with 2, 30 lb tanks.  I put them outside, away from anything, and opened the valves just enough to let the gas flow out at a slow rate so it would immediately mix with the air.  The tanks weren't full, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 and it took a couple of hours.


When I couldn't hear the gas any more, I opened the valves completely overnight.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Brianpaul77

Decided to call a few of the more rural propane suppliers.  Found one about 15 miles away that said they'd repair it, while still mounted on the RV, for about $25 plus cost for the new service valve.  Guy acted like it would be no big deal, and something they do all the time.  Makes me wonder why the local places aren't willing to touch it.

circleD

Keep us informed on what was replaced and how please.

Rickf1985

Quote from: Brianpaul77 on May 05, 2015, 12:28 PM
Decided to call a few of the more rural propane suppliers.  Found one about 15 miles away that said they'd repair it, while still mounted on the RV, for about $25 plus cost for the new service valve.  Guy acted like it would be no big deal, and something they do all the time.  Makes me wonder why the local places aren't willing to touch it.

My guess, Not enough money in it for them. well guess what, this outfit just got all of your propane business didn't they. Smartest cheap repair around. :)ThmbUp W%

LJ-TJ

Oh Rick, Oh Rick ,blasphemy! ;) CHEAP. Never. Frugal, Thrifty but never CHEAP. :)rotflmao CHEAP is not in the Classic Winnebago  vocabulary.

M & J

When we bought our coach, the tank valve leaked when open. Propane guy came to the house, replaced some O rings and charged $40. Down side was he had to bleed the tank empty first. Lotsa propane went back to nature.
M & J

Oz

Well, that's good to hear that you found a... um.. thrifty/cheap/frugal/... guy to do it for you!
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

1987minniewinnie

We have a 1978 Minnie Winnie class c propane gas leak that I just finished,a lot of the gas valves aren't  made fore motor homes and the complete valve cost about $60+ and is hard to remove,the seal is not replaceable but a valve service kit can be bought at Nash Fuel (www.nashfuel.com) this is made the RegO valves you can go on line and they show a picture of the kit so you can compare it the kit # 903-50 for 901c5 service valve this valve kit is only $22.50 free shipping the phone # for Nash fuel is 859-881-0509
MAKE SURE YOUR TANK IS EMPTY BEFORE MAKING THIS REPAIR IT IS EASY BE SAFE
   the valve is left hand thread turn clockwise to remove

Froggy1936

Reading these posts I think I will obtain a new shutoff valve and next time the tank is near empty replace the valve , Better than developeing a leak wile full , Valve is original I believe almost 40 yrs old  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

Rickf1985

I agree with Frank, mine is really hard to turn on so I am going to get a kit. Have to make sure the kit is the same for all though.

Froggy1936

I got a replacement valve,$45.00 But since mine is not leaking or hard to operate I am going to gamble on it and wait for failure time !  Frank  W%
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

dickcarl

Froggy, now that you've got the valve on hand you can bet you'll die without the old one ever going bad.
Mechanically challenged but willing to break, cross-thread or totally bugger up nearly ANY expensive component in the guise of repair.