Removing the engine clutter, AIR, smog, vacuum lines

Started by JerryP, March 22, 2015, 06:22 PM

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JerryP


Got a little start on the engine compartment.


Got the top smog pump out, it was locked up tight, no belt.  pretty easy job.
WOW, removing that pile of junk pump opened the compartment up, and belt tightening for the compressor, and alternator took about 5 minutes.
Much easier to reach everything
Took off a few other parts down the line until I got to the manifold for the exhaust manifold. Not sure how I am going to address that, may have to cut it off, and weld a plug over that 1 inch hole.
Got a good look at the vacuum lines, and not sure where to start with those.
Saw several cracked ones,
I would love to just rip all the vacuum lines out, and redo the the 2 or 3 necessary ones, but I do not know where the lines go, yet....













Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

JerryP




Cheated a little until I get around to plugging the manifold



Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

tiinytina

Yea I think I had a pix in my gallery of the PILE of AIR parts taken off.... and shortly after that was gone holes plugged blew a HUGE hole in the manifold as the spark module mount cracked off the distributor.... and well.. just the excuse to invest in a BANKS header/Torques....   so no AIR and Banks and I have artwork under Gone and she sounds like a pack of Harley's... and way more room to work on everything.. and no melted plug wires since either....at idle she prowls forward if in gear...
Tina
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!

FastGlassman69

I have vacuum lines running to my new vacuum advance, cruise, transmission and heat riser everything else is gone and she runs great! I will be putting the original hose back on to the air cleaner till I figure out a better intake system as with the weather change and no hose , it seems the milage is down from what it was coming down here to fla. Oh Jerry nice hose plug setup you have , I was in a rush to get on the road and the PO had the right side air tubes plugged , so I put one of those giant tin sharpies in the left side with a hose clamp , LOL! It's holding up fine but don't think i'll be able to write with it! Bobby :)clap

JerryP

Do you know of a link to info about removing the vacuum lines.
I assume I need to hook the carb, distributor, cruise, and transmission, up, but I am not sure where the actual origin of the vacuum system is, and where they would hook into.
Is it fitting located on the intake manifold, between the carb, and the distributor?? it has a metal line running back to the tranny, and the distributor vacuum runs off into I do not know where, Would the distributor just hook into the intake manifold??
I does not appear to be a hard job, I just do not know what hooks where??


Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

Rickf1985

That is one of the vacuum supply sources, the other is ported vacuum and is on the carburetor. There are also other vacuum lines on the carb that control individual items. You will have to get hold of a vacuum diagram to see what can be disconnected and what cannot. I left the vapor canisters hooked up since they do not affect the way it runs and disconnecting them is opening a can of worms.

Froggy1936

Jerry in your picture of the air filter There is a diagram pasted on the filter housing that shows the beginning and the end of all the vacuume hoses  That is your map  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

JerryP

Been looking at it, A little hard to decipher some of it, and I am  not sure what the acronyms are.
Of all the work I have done on engines, I never messed with the Vacuum stuff, other than to fix leaks.
Does not help that it has been a few years since I did so much work, and those I did rebuild, and such, were all pre 70s vehicle, with nothing but the essential stuff.



Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

cncsparky

The only vacuum lines left connected on my '87 chassis were the distributor, transmission, and the vacuum cannister mounted on the radiator support.  And of course the PCV valve to carburetor base.  My cruise control apparently doesn't need a vacuum reference.
All are connected to full manifold vacuum, my distributor was modified for this however.
-Tom

FastGlassman69

All of my vacumm lines are hooked to full time vacumm on the manifold t, have had no problems and runs great! I am going to eliminate the heat riser when I get home as it really isn't needed. I put a adjustable vacuum advance on but haven't played with it yet. Runs good so will get to that when I get home. Just changed the plugs, the PO had AC 1 plugs in it , put AC44's in so we will see. Bobby

JerryP

Thanks for the comment. :)clap :)clap :)clap :)clap

Been looking at the full manifold pressure versus the regulated issue, and was not sure what to do. That is what has stopped me from moving forward with the vacuum system mods.

Do not much care about the dash climate controls, as they do not work anyway.


Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

Rickf1985

You will care about the dash climate controls when that big azzed windshield steams up inside!!!!! That is when you really wished you have fixed the engine A/C that everyone told you not to worry about! You need dry air to clear the windshield and the only way to get dry warm air is when the A/C is working. That is why it always comes on with the defrost whether it is hot or cold out. The dash climate controls work off of one manifold vacuum line.

JerryP

Oh I am already in the process of fixing the dash AC, for just that reason.
Fogged up windows irritate me to no end.
I really dislike turning on the heat in warm weather to clear a windshield, because the AC does not work
When I built the new heater core, AC coil box, I did not put in a fresh air opening for that reason.
I never use outside air in my vehicle, but did make a spot in case it turns out I should have.

That all said, if the dash climate controls are simple enough, I may keep them. None of them seem to work right now, other than on-off, which ironically makes the radio come on, when the motor is off, and the key is out...which means they tapped on/off for either the radio, or fan, into the other's power..... Hm? Hm? Hm? Hm? 
Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

FastGlassman69

Oh yeah Jerry, forgot the one vacuum line for the climate control. all my controls work but the MH needs a new compressor, condenser and lines, etc. They will be working by summer. Boy putting the intake hose back on made a difference, we'll see if the milage picks up. Used the defrost this morning, I suspect it would have worked much better with A/C working! Bobby

JerryP

Went crazy with the label maker yesterday, and tie wraps too.

All the pollution stuff left behind, wiring connections, vacuum hoses ect, that I disconnected got a label, and tie wrapped down securely, so i would not forget, nor would it entangle, and I would not have to wonder what it went to later. Labeled a few other things I have learned about also
Actually had to unplug the whatever it is electrical switch that plugs into the air cleaner housing that causes the Check engine light to come on. Labeled it, and tie wrapped it down.
Engine ran good before, runs remarkably awesome now.
Had a nice evening with the dogs at the park.




Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

FastGlassman69

Glad to hear your rig is running better Jerry. Just came up out of Florida taking the scenic route north , lots of hills and with the cruise on 55-60 getting 9.25-9.75 averages, I love it! These motors sure seem to like cold air, on the way down to Florida my milage suffered as the temperatures went up. While in Florida I put the plastic hose back on the air cleaner to above the radiator and saw immediate differences in milage! Have a Great Day! Bobby

tiinytina

the 454 likes "Cool" air it however hates cold damp air.  with no AIR and Banks headers I average about 7.4 no matter what it seems 55-60 driver, mountains 6.3 and I log every tank of gas since 2006.  Snorkel attached to front RAM air intake.  I tried a naked KN assembly but a winter trip MD to NC leaving in a wet 32F snow storm i got 3.2mpg.  the KN assembly had no port for the exhaust return so she was icing up and not happy camper. LOL...  KN filter in OEM air filter assembly to RAM. 
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!

Rickf1985

I agree with Tina, If you are from the deep south you can get away with straight cold air intake but once you get below 40 degrees with damp air you will get carb icing and that is bad.

JerryP

As a UL pilot, I want nothing to do with carb icing..
You run around, looking for the problem, and by the time you get a look at the carb, the ice has melted, so you are clueless with an intermittent issue... in an aircraft, that is dependent upon whether you survive the engine out landing
Jerry P
89 Winnebago Chieftain 23RC
A work in progress

jeno

took the topone off mine to. did you take the lower one off?if you did can you tell me how you did it the bolts are coverd by the pully. thanks

Rickf1985

Remove pulley, three bolts if I remember correctly.

tiinytina

Banks headers have the hot air return to carb....   engine out landings are a PITA even simply practicing... PIC in training.... skid marks not optional....  When Gone iced up foot to floor 40mph tops, engine rough did not describe.  3.2mpg filling up tank... yup.    Hot air return makes the 454 much happier for the most part.... 
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!

jeno

yes i think you are right thank you. once i get that out what is the best way to mesure for new belts? oh and whats the best way to hold the pully still while getting the bolts out ? thanks

Rickf1985

The belt sizes are listed on here somewhere and the best way to hold it is to leave the belt on till the bolts are loose. If the belt is already off loop it around the pulley and pinch it tight against the pulley with your hand and hold tight. Otherwise a strap wrench around the pulley will work.

jeno