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1

Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by RonV on Today at 02:56 PM »

Ok pulled the carb and it looks like it has never been rebuilt because the idle mixture screws are plunged

Should I cut off the plugs like in the picture or just leave them on?

2

Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by BamBam on Today at 11:11 AM »

A lot depends on what your plans for it are. If you plan to pull time in it and you are doing a complete top to bottom rebuild then I would opt for a fuel injection unit. It is going to cost close to 1,000.00 compared to 400.00 for the carburetor but the advantages are instant starting, perfect air/fuel ratio at all altitudes which equals better gas mileage and longer engine life. And absolutely no issues with vapor lock. You are not going to gain any massive gains in horsepower regardless of what the marketing will tell you, 1-3 MPG at best. You will gain a much smoother running engine. I am just throwing this out there because it is expensive but if you are going all out anyway it is definitely something to consider.

A lot of people in the muscle car world have done this and are happy with the results. With this so called reformulated gas with alcohol in it has caused so many a problem for the carbureted world and this seems to be the only fix for the problem. Good Luck

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by Rickf1985 on Today at 10:27 AM »

A lot depends on what your plans for it are. If you plan to pull time in it and you are doing a complete top to bottom rebuild then I would opt for a fuel injection unit. It is going to cost close to 1,000.00 compared to 400.00 for the carburetor but the advantages are instant starting, perfect air/fuel ratio at all altitudes which equals better gas mileage and longer engine life. And absolutely no issues with vapor lock. You are not going to gain any massive gains in horsepower regardless of what the marketing will tell you, 1-3 MPG at best. You will gain a much smoother running engine. I am just throwing this out there because it is expensive but if you are going all out anyway it is definitely something to consider.
\
Here is one I was considering for mine


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30003/overview/
You will also need a supply of high pressure gas so either a high pressure pump in the tank or a setup like this.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpf-40004/overview/

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Projects / Re: 1975 Brave D 19 Refresh

« Last post by Oz on Today at 09:07 AM »

Read the reply posted to your question on the Forum Help board.


http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=15060.0

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Projects / 1975 Brave D 19 Refresh

« Last post by 800tundra on Today at 12:08 AM »

Sorry cannot get pics small enough To post and now Unable to delete post also .🤦‍♂️

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by RonV on Yesterday at 11:03 PM »

Keven read a lot of your post and all I can say is wow, when I bought the rv 5 years ago I had it checked by a friend who was a fleet mechanic and told me it was well maintained, being 0ver 30 years old might be time to start adding new parts and upgrading.
The boss my wife wants me to gut it and rebuild it for her needs...lol so I have some work to do.

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by ClydesdaleKevin on Yesterday at 04:16 PM »

I had a P30 for many years and many miles, so here is my advice:

The Quadrajet carburetor is arguably the very best gasoline carburetor ever made...and they are also the hardest to rebuild successfully and adjust properly.

After two unsuccessful rebuild attempts of my own...and then after buying a bad rebuild from Summit Racing...I threw my hands up in the air and bought a brand new Edlebrock 1411 and the adapter plate from Summit.  And I am so glad I did!  My gas mileage stayed about the same...but the power was smoother, and I had no further carburetor issues after that.  Not a one in around 30K miles.

Do a search through my posts for Edlebrock...lots of good info buried in there, including what I used for an aluminum plenum for a remote air filter and cold air intake.

So click "search" from the menu above...then type in "Edlebrock ."  Then in the window where it says "from users" type in "clydesdalekevin."  That will bring you up a bunch of links to posts I made over the years...and many hours of woe...that should answer just about any question you have about your P30 fuel system.

It ran great after that...for many many more miles...until the transmission cracked and I ended up the blessed new owner of an Itasca diesel pusher.   My 1989 Holiday Rambler had over 140K hard miles on her before I had to retire the old girl.   

Kev

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by Rickf1985 on Yesterday at 03:12 PM »

Take it off ad tear it down and decide at that point what you are going o do with it. That way it hasn't cost you a cent at that point. If all is is is all gunked up and you have experience at rebuilding carbs then go for it. If you insist on running something through the ports use the bristles from a stiff bristled brush. As long as they are not metal they will not destroy the passages.

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by RonV on Yesterday at 12:51 PM »

I like this forum, great people with sound advice.
At 65 years young rebuilding the carburetor will give me something to do, buying a new or rebuilt will save some headaches or guess work down the road.
I wish to thank everyone for their help and suggestions in helping me "Thank You"
To help others with this same problem I will keep notes on cost and links and pictures so the next person who has the same problem can quickly decide the cost on whats best for them.

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Chevy (GMC) / Re: 1986 Chieftain Problems After Sitting

« Last post by Rickf1985 on Yesterday at 11:23 AM »

Well, rebuild kits used to be 10-15 bucks. Now they are 30.00. And if you think you can rebuild a carb with a couple cans of cleaner and some brush wires then good luck. I specialized in carburetor rebuilds for almost 40 years, there is just a little more to it than that. the welsh plugs need to be removed and the bores cleaned and new plugs put back in.


Hey, It is your vehicle, your carb and your money. If it is not all white and fuzzy inside then I would suggest you get yourself some Berrymans 0905 carb cleaner and a good size ultrsonic cleaner and give it a few thorough washings through there. Or just the 5 gallon bucket and soak it in there. That is what I did for 40 years. If you are not going to strip out the throttle and choke shafts then go with the Berrymans 0996 since it will not harm the shaft seals. It will not clean as well as the 0905 though.
But by the time you buy all the chemicals and rebuild kits you could get a new quadrajet 800 from Summit or a 750 Edelbrock from them.


And a little hint here, do NOT go poking metal wires into precision aluminum holes!! You will no longer have precision holes.