This is not a maybe article. The mods I have performed work without a doubt. The MAIN objective on ANY RV is mileage. I have been working with what's known as a HYCO2A from"Eagle Research". This unit changes liquid to vapor (no liquid burns in an internal combustion engine) thus changing the feed to cold vapor. This is done by "bubbling" the fuel in a sealed cannister with a vacuum line just under the primaries on the carb. Using this system has increased the mileage & performance ( this also has a ford part # for police interceptors). You actually shut the idle mixture screws off! This is like having another carb feed separate from the main fuel line. I hardly even use the back barrels anymore. I have disconnected the choke as it's not needed anymore. (especially in florida) I have further modified the system to my own parameters whereby reducing parts cost. This IS NOT a bolt on system. You must do your homework on this as it's considered "Experimental" by our PTB. I have installed another car & the results are phenomenal. The first thing we noticed was an immediate decrease in engine & exhaust temprature by 10 degrees, the smell of the exhaust cleaned up also (no rich smell) This car is equipped with a 550 HP smallblock chevy roller motor. It's like the BEST of both worlds & 24 MPG! ( I get 13 MPG on my RV with this). I've invested $650.00 on two units & have NO regrets. This is not a sales gimmick. I have come across this & I want to share my good fortune with everyone so don't dismiss this as another junk add on IT WORKS GREAT!!!
Go to: http://www.eagle-research.com/ (http://www.eagle-research.com/) EAGLE RESEARCH & FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF.
This site also sells BROWNS GAS units & many other items of similar interest.
We also have knowledge about HHO Generators & they are usually good for a solid 6 MPG on GAS & deisel responds even better. Anyway I have two years perfecting MY version of the HYCO & I'm happy to report this endeavor. I hope some of you will show an interest as BIG OIL is taking too much of our money for their own profit I'm SICK of it! NICOLA TESLA provided FREE Electricity in the thirties & THIS is how far we have come!!?? Anyway check this out for yourself. If you have any questions I can be contacted for details concerning any of this material (among other things pertaining to RV mods as I've many other topics to relay & MOST can be done oc your own. I have suspension mods as well as upgrades & modifications to engines & transmissions. I have been a Full Timer for 7 years now & love it 55000 miles since being as such & I work on & build Old Iron vehicles & run a ONE OF A KIND AA/TF Dragster powered by a "HANDMADE" VW BILLET ENG making 4000 HP on 90% nitromethane (It has been 202MPH in 4.02Seconds with the parachutes open in the 1/8th mile here in Immokalee Fl. Truly a sight to behold!
Back to the matters at hand< I'll be posting more articles in the near future so absorb this info & don't be shy ask questions. I'll be happy to clarify any misconceptions or queries.
C YA!
GONMAD
How much does your RV weigh? Do you tow anything? If so what is your GCWR? What kind of mileage did you get before your upgrades? What do you estimate your total cost for the improvements that you made on your motor home? Do you have any photos of the upgrades? If so can you post them?
* Note that the author does mention that this topic modification is "experimental" and that readers should do their own research.
It is strongly advised that members do just that and seek independent verification of actual results, component quality, reliability, warranty and safety concerns.
Thanks - Mark
First of all I apologize for leading you to believe I was advertising. "I'M NOT" that said thanks for the input , as I say I'm NOT a business & I'm SICK of taking the standard accepted methods. If you are happy with 7 mpg ( which IS what I used to get) then stay happy with it. This is two years of MY research & development , my costs are mentioned in the text as well. All the parts necessary were bought locally & there is no kit. I did mention that this device has a ford part #. I have spent six years & over eighteen thousand dollars modifying my rig & have more do it yourself projects for the p 30. I LIKE to share info & have NO interest in capitalizing on any subject. I am a bucks down guy & I have to be creative in my endeavors. Everything on my rig I did myself I have engine mods, chassis, suspension a home made "panhard bar fabrication for the rear, exhaust upgrades, centramatic wheel balancer installation, Gear venders installation I have transmission mods for the 400 Turbo to help longevity & more. I have provided some pics in the photo section of some of the improvements & I'll send more as time progresses.
In summary I'm hoping I am joining a forward thinking bunch & if I'm wrong then so be it. I have been driving street cars with over 500 HP since 1969 & getting 13 MPG so it can be done. has ANYONE ever heard of the POGUE Carburetor? It got 125MPG in the fourties Why can we NOT do it now!?
There are BETTER methods out there just get off the THRONE & look.
C YA GONMAD
Hi Mad We do not want to scare you away. We are all interested in increasing mileage. Its just we are a bit sceptical. Thank you for your advice !! Will your syestem work with throttle body injection ? Frank
In responce to a question posed, Yes these work well with fuel injection provided you install an "EFIE" electronic fuel injection enhancer tied into your O2 sensor so it will not negate the Hyco ( you have to fool it NOT to richen it back up). Also you can get fancy with a mosfat device to control the injection pulse into milliseconds further increasing mileage.
At this point I highly recommend a hydrogen generator in the system as well OR install the HHO first. Generally on a gas engine it is very c ommon to see 4 to 6 MPG IMMEDIATLY We have an HHO unit from canada ( where they have been making them for over 40 years) installed on a highly modified small block actually getting 22 MPG without the Hyco. We're still getting figures for both units combined. So far it looks like 24 to 26 overall. I'll supply pictures of both units to clarify any misconceptions.
I'm pretty happy right now as I just returned from a small trip to town & I swear I hardly ever get to use the back barrels anymore & the engine can barely be heard. Another benifit is the engine temp drops 10 degrees as well as the exhaust smells cleaner & definitely cooler (the more complete burn IN the combustion chamber results on more power less money out the tailpipe. I hope I didn't bore you by running on so. I want to develop a unit like Stan Myers & use only water for fuel. We have a small generator running on hydrogen only & are trying to upsize everything to run an 8L. engine It takes money for the materials so it's a slow work in progress.
Thanks for your time' I'LL provide more later
C YA! GONMAD
hi guys I know when I went to trade school for auto mechanic there was an wright up in one of our magazines at school that a mechanic in the souther US reworked a rochester four barrell carb in a 1970 chev with a 350 cid and it cost him 40 dollars to do this and was getting almost 100 mpg without any power loss this quicky dissapeared and no long herd about this was in the mid 1980's. Is this what it was?i
I heard that there was a carb that ran on water many years ago, never heard much of it. Rumor has it the guy was payed off or something like that. One fact I know is that a good set carb. will get better gas millage than fuel injection systems. I had a 82 Monty with a 5.0L that I took a trip in that used less than 1/2 the fuel that the same trip in a 89 S10 blazer with a 4.3L did. And I was really pushing the car too, gunned it every chance I could.
QuoteI heard that there was a Carb that ran on water....
There was a guy named Stan Meyers who ran his dunebuggy on water. He knew some of the guys at the firehouse I work at. He use to stop by the fire department with it all the time. He refused to sell out and died at the local Bob Evans. Prior to that he called the local police and told them his life was in danger, they didn't take him seriously. The community thinks he's was poisoned. His car was taken and his home was ransacked. Hm?
We had a pretty lengthy discussion on the H2O topic and there were a couple youtube videos showing the vehicle running, also links to the articles about his death. Official cause of death was poisoning. He died from it after having dinner at a restaurant.
Hello ALL! About Stan Meyer, He was visited by "OFFICIALS from Standard oil & others. They offered him a one BILLION dollar cease & desist for NOT revealing this technology to "PUBLIC DOMAIN". He declined them & stated he would do this anyway. His "Water Cracker" device actually disassembled ANY water & re-aligned the hydrogen & oxygen molecules for burning successfully.There WERE others who have done similar devices & met with the SAME fate. The term is "Suicided". & big oil ( JP MORGAN, BP, Standard Oil...The list goes on & I'm sure you get the picture. I won't get into the "Conspiracy theory" involved but ask yourself this question... Why are we still using 100 year old tech with carbs & fuel injection when there are plenty of OTHER options for powering vehicles than the IMPOSED norm Look up NICOLA TESLA The REAL father of electricity NOT Edison & see what he had designed way back in the EARLY 1900s. Everyone has a brain & do not let anyone scare you with "There's one born every minute" Be curious & I don't see any failures Just different ways to NOT do something. Success comes in CANS not CANT'S. according to Zeig Zeigler (Whom I've seen 10 times in my career) on success & failure. At 63 years I'm not happy with being relegated to "THE NORM" & I'll continue to step out of line & do something different. Isn't that why everyone IS different? Don't allow yourself to be trapped into just another brick in the wall. We chose RV's because we ARE different. Why stop there? As Always I've probably said too much already, That what I do. C YA! GONMAD
I stand behind everything you said 100% thank you some more insight as to what many do not know (myself included), and some who choose to just accept what is. I believe in questioning everything. I live my life doing things that people say you can't do or can't obtain. If I had the knowledge to build such a device myself I would share it with the world, probably would put a end to greedy oil companies and all those who stand behind them. Not to mention the cleaner environment around the world we would have. If we don't try different things we would not be where we are in this world today as humans. It's only a matter of time till fossil fuels run out. By then we will have a new (regulated and governed replacement) that will just have to pay to have like we do on any energy supply.
Rob
It amazes me when people people say something is bogus when the proof is right in front of them.
http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=Ah5AVqQXEqnRUq4J2QrjOHObvZx4?p=youtube+stan+meyer&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=fp-yie9 (http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=Ah5AVqQXEqnRUq4J2QrjOHObvZx4?p=youtube+stan+meyer&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=fp-yie9)
There you go, people... watch the videos of an actual water powered vehicle and also the additional ones, including the demise of Stan and mysterious disappearance of his vehicle.
Strange... he died shortly after refusing a $1 billion offer to buy out the rights to it.... Yeah, the big auto companies aren't stupid. They'll do whatever they have to in order to protect their ivory tower.
And... Google Stan Meyers. You'll find all you need to know about the vehicle and his death.
I personally think Stans' old partner did him in because he was mad at Stan turning down whatever offer was made to him..
As far as the HHO booster, yeah, it definitely works.
For those who need physical proof, take a trip to DON GARLITS Museum in Ocala Fl. There is a shining example of a "POGUE' Carb producing 125mpg on a Flathead ford I guess this dates the time period as not so new. The patents are registered & easy to duplicate. I'll send a pic of it when I find it. It's funny when you think everything is "IN our BEST intrest" only to find out otherwise. I was told in my younger years to "Seek the Truth" & I'll endure ridicule & Deny ignorance but I will not accept spoonfed BS & negativity. NO FEAR! C YA! GONMAD
Hello ALL! I just completed a 1200 mile trip to South Carolina & back. After removing the HHO unit & running on the NEW HYCO K. After repairing a few bugs in the running gear like the vacuum modulator hose collapsing at the trans & trash in the Carb (I overhauled it at a rest stop) My average mileage is 8.30 mpg measuring at 300 mile intervals. I TRIED to keep speed down to around 70 but my thrill seeking days are not over & passing slower vehicles is a snap as WOT operation is pretty impressive & the engine LIKES 77 mph. Vacuum is a steady 9hg. I rarely had to use the back barrels. Just run it at the tip in point & thats all thats needed for smooth operation around 71 mph. Still have major problems with the NEW sending unit I just installed so it was a gamble as to when to fill up.
The HYCO K did perform flawlessly & while mileage is UP I think this is more of a performance enhancer hard to duplicate by just changing plugs or carbs or mild turbo or supercharging. The overall power difference is defiantly worth it. The plugs are a light tan gray & clean. If mileage is paramount (which it is) I recommend a good HHO unit along with the HYCO. & the mileage will be back to where it sounds ludicrous. HHO provides a good 4 to 6 mpg on a gas engine & Diesels respond even better. My trip wasn't a success but I obtained good figures for my research. I should have used the HHO unit also. All for now. C YA! GONMAD
I remember my dad telling me about the Pough/Pogue? Carburetor in '83. When I did some research , I discovered that it did indeed increase mileage but with gas from the era it was invented in. This was before all the "additives" fuel companies began putting into the gas. Nowadays it would be difficult to achieve the same level of vaporization that the "P" carb achieved before the additives were used.
Hello All, I just finished my figures for the last trip I took. The mileage improvement was a solid 2 MPG WITH the HYCO 'K' than over previous trips. Although not a miraculous change alone but coupled with a good HHO unit it could be up to 4 to 6 mpg more if you can keep your foot off the go pedal. Make darn sure you keep clean fuel filters on your fuel system & the glass filters are WORTHLESS! Use a good RUSSEL or any cleanable filter that you can take apart for inspection & cleaning. The glass filters are good for stopping boulders & looking cool and better than nothing.
All for now C YA! GONMAD
At a typical 6-8 mpg for most people... A solid 2 mpg more is a solid and serious gas cost savings!
Never use a glass filter. Your asking for a engine fire if it breaks. I have heard of this happening and the guy lost a vintage Mustang from it.
Hi Mark, I haven't been to his site recently but I guess he's updated his website. He's actually drinking the water produced by the browns gas machine! He says the health benefits are remarkable. If you or anybody need information as to what you need for assembling a modified unit like the two My brother & I have done I'll compose a list. The BIG problem is the container as he no longer supplies them. I'm Happy to say the bugs are worked out & perform perfectly on both My rig & Bob's 55 chevy equipped with HHO. We're up to 22 mpg on his street car. It seems to work very well together. I hope all is well & have a good day! C YA! GONMAD
So, GONMAD, if I am reading this info correctly, the dihydrogen monoxide generator is adding hydrogen to the fuel mixture, thus needing less gasoline to produce the same amount of energy?
Quite right Sir!
Most people believe the gasoline is what makes the engine run when it only serves to ignite the Oxygen & hydrogen already in the air we breathe. The more complete the combustion IN THE CHAMBER the more power it produces. The engine temprature will drop as a result while power goes up. The dihydrogen is but one of the gasses that can be produced. We are currently working on assembling a "HYDROSTAR" generator. Here's the link:
http://www.stoptherobbery.com/HydroStar%20Hydrogen%20Generator%20Schematics%20Plans.pdf
This unit is closer to what Stan Meyer had built before his untimely death at the hands of big oil.
It produces parahydrogen as well as dihydrogen. This gives the user the option of tuning the octane so to speak by mixing the two. This is also more of a fuel source than an add on. It is more complex than just an HHO unit & requires a toroidial coil be hand wound & is time consuming & will test your patience Most of the add on's increase the PPM of combustable mixtures while the hydrostar IS a fuel production unit in itself & can be used in conjunction with any other fuel. These devices are NOT that complicated & anyone that can read can benefit from them. BE curious & never be afraid to ask questions!
I question reality every day!
And YOU have a good day as well Coachman500.
C YA! GONMAD
Cool, if I had the time and $$$ I would absolutely LOVE to test that HHO generator for my trip from WA to NY..
I'm very interested in it.
Hello All... I am going to advise a change in the type of sealer to use 'inside' the Hyco. We have switched to JB weld from the 5200 we previously used. The aforementioned will swell after time & lose sealing ability. The JB will not do this hence the change. Thanks for your interest. C YA! GONMAD
I just saw this thread for the first time and I have to admit that after 45 years as a master mechanic I am skeptical. I see you mention several times a Ford part number but never saw the part number. That might help to clear things up.
I haven't found such a number either, but a good friend that owns a car lot said he bought part of an old police car fleet that had them on. He went on to say they knew nothing about them so they removed them all & trashed them! He recognized it right off. I would also venture to say this item wasn't to be widely known about by the general public. If it was then everyone would have one & negate the whole "ADVANTAGE" of having it. I'll also tell you running without it is something you WILL miss. If you REALLY want the old part numbers try writing to George Wiseman at Eagle Research as he might be forthcoming with it. I feel My design to be BETTER the the old design due to the hardware innovations & upgrades. I am currently working on a clear acrylic canister so the masses can SEE it working to believe it!?
I suggest everyone with a carbureted engine try the ENHANCER It's so simple to install & the results are IMMEDIATE! It costs to buy the water line kit for an ice maker fridge & a little time tuning it. If done right you'll do it on everything. Thanks for the interest, I appreciate curiosity...it's good for the soul. C YA! GONMAD
Okay, I'm game to try this, and maybe even the HHO. Got more info, like free plans and pictures?
Kev
Just to clarify, I'm all onboard with trying out a Hyco and hydrogen gas gen...but not onboard with the other system of winding my own several miles of coil, which is the only free plans I've seen so far.
Any free plans for a Hyco and HGG?
Kev
Gonmad which books did you order from eagle when you started this project/ I want to do this and want to get the right books. Thanks! :)
Unfortunately this info isn't free & protected from piracy by copyright law. One must purchase everything individually as a separate account. I recommend pooling resources with like minded friends. I purchased the book on the 'Carburetor Enhancer' & also the book 'Hyco 2A Manual'. We are going to purchase a BROWNS GAS Generator. This unit in MY opinion could revolutionize welding as it's properties are somewhat over the top for the ones who stick to old conventional thinking along with wood burning subs. (Read into the research into drinking Hydrogenated water for health purposes). The main problem is finding an appropriate container for the Hyco. What we're using is a 5" PVC pipe coupler & related fittings from a good plumbing supplier. I do not think Eagle sells a good container anymore. That was THE MAJOR stumbling block but not anymore with this container. Also I changed from a three way soleniod valve to a two way because of my re-routing the feed line & the return line. On mine the return ilne is constantly open providing a constant supply of fresh gas & the Hyco drains dry after the key is turned off, leaving no liquid inside. I also have dry break quick disconnects on everything. I'll post some new pics on my gallery. As always... GONMAD
Thank you! :)
I may be coming off as a little harsh and skeptical but to be fair here is what I will do. I work in the maintenance dept. of a university and am on good terms with a NASA engineer here that is working on alternative fuels. If this is a feasable concept he will know or be very interested in proving it out and he has the resources to do so.
NASA engineer?!
So all this IS rocket science?
As a matter of fact it is, http://climate.nasa.gov/energy_innovations/847
Creating Hydrogen from water is actually not that new of a concept. Whereas the bus in the article is being refueled with Hydrogen, the Hydrogen itself is being made on site using the same process as Gonmads' associates use. There is in fact sound science behind all this.
Fredric
The manufacture of hydrogen is as old as time, you do it every time you boil water. This is the basis for the fuel cell. The problem is making it portable and self sustaining. I have not read the latest articles on the systems being offered here but I have read up on, and tested, many systems going back 40 years. None worked as advertised. Yes you can gain a tiny bit of power or mileage sometimes but the cost of doing so is just not worth it. The cost per mile is substantially more than stock. That is what you have to consider, MPG vs. cost per mile. To the best of my knowlege the man I am talking about is not a rocket scientist but he does have degrees in mechanical and chemical engineering so I am sure he will be able to verify if this will work or not. Plus this is right in the field that he is working on. He will have a definite interest in it if it does work.
I try to find my own answers & generally don't depend on what the current 'EXPERTS' ( like those two Corporate sponsored boneheads at Mythbusters) have to say. I think changing rear gears works to an extent. But I opted for a Gear Vendors over/underdrive & it works flawlessly. The total I spent on a GOOD HHO gen from 'Water 4 Gas' & SAV FUEL in Canada. They have been producing them for 40 years now IN CANADA! A lot of big rig Trucks up there run them. It was $1100.00 a full seven years ago. & not any more than to acquire more potassium. A CONSTANT 4 to 6 MPG is what it's producing. I have a total of $1000.00 in the HYCO research & it works just fine now that I have a GOOD container. I have NO job & did this despite that fact. NOTHING IS FREE!!!! Go BUY the plans & THEN the Voodoo goes away. I'm no rocket scientist & I know that ROCKET fuel IS HHO! If anyone tries something with a positive attitude the results are generally positive. I suggested pooling recourses to lessen the burden on everyone. I can't 'by law' reprint the plans or I would. I 'AGAIN' recommend doing YOUR OWN research Trying to make the world a better place is like swimming upstream sometimes, but the Salmon make it & WE'RE supposed to be the 'Intelligent' species on this Prison Planet, but I digress. Any more questions? C YA! GONMAD
I know from my catapults that a small change in design and someone else can sell them. I want free plans before I try this'. You already said you had to modify things...lets see what you've got in your own words and pictures, and there is no copyright infringement.
I know this for a fact.
Kev
Here's a link to the photos he has posted. I think some of them are applicable to the topic. I browsed them and I follow the HHO idea with interest, but I'm not really all that into the topic from a technical aspect.
Just passing along what I see. Maybe there's something in these photos that will pique interest or you'll have questions about.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=mgalitems;u=2895 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=mgalitems;u=2895)
The author did say he would provide a list of components in his early post.
I must remind everyone about my last trip to SC & having fuel filter problems. My trip UP was terrible with inclement weather & slow traffic on Hwy. 27 past Sebring. My return trip was clear weather & I managed up to 8.30 MPG WITH the HYCO ONLY. I wasn't being frugal with my right foot either averaging from 65 to 88 MPH for the most part, you know "keeping up with traffic". I would imagine keeping my speed down to Bluehair speed might have made a difference in mileage but I could not help myself & mileage suffered as a result. I did NOT use the HHO on this trip to get accurate data on the ONE device. I run my generator off of another tank so as not to affect overall readings. I think I actually got 12.4 mpg after falling off a cliff...no wait that's my wood burning submarine.
I KNOW about patent & copyright laws. As I have said in the past to look at my Picture Gallery & see for yourself how to build the HYCO. I'll send more pics of the altered system I use to clarify any scary hocus pocus & maybe some magic beans if anyone has a cow to trade. My goal is to inspire everyone I can to look for yourself & just maybe we can resolve conflict. WE should pull together to come up with possibly NEW concepts or Ideas for our maladies concerning these magic mileage figures. IF no one dares to take a first step then failure isn't even an option.
I have been in the engine business my whole life. Can you build a conventional 454 and get 12 mpg in a class A....No. But as many times as i have seen these cold vapor systems bragged about every time they were independently tested the rusults are the same .They do nothing but waist money.
AHHH! Humor... Thanks!?
I'm with Motorpro... show me 3 independent test results performed under strict laboratory conditions by really smart people in white coat with PHD's.
Ok. I'll make this thread even more interesting.
Having owned a few Fieros, I remembered this car built by Smokey Yunick.
Fill your hands
http://www.gafiero.org/docs/SmokeyYunick.pdf (http://www.gafiero.org/docs/SmokeyYunick.pdf)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg8oJXcWjnE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg8oJXcWjnE)
Dave
In it's course, I think this topic has degraded into a lot of irrelevant static. It has started leaning toward a pi$$ing contest of "BS vs no BS" and is going off into to using military vehicles to modify conventional RVs, diesel conversions, building big block Chevy gas engines that just as doubtfully get 12 mpg, copyrights, gas mileage in 1980s VW Rabbits... pretty much everything except doing what the author reasonably presented for you to do with it in his opening post!
Let's focus on providing info on and asking questions about the system and remember this:
HHO systems theory and development have been around for a long time and they units have been made and the car manufacturers are producing working models... the future is clear that the system will be developed and perfected... Just like machines that could fly (It'll never happen, right?), a manned rocketship into outerspace (it's only science fiction, right?)... and driverless vehicles (impossible!, right?).
If you do not have a thorough knowledge of how the system works, have used this particular system along with the described modification, or are in direct contact with someone who does or has, then generalized statements saying it doesn't work are not valid. They are opinions without support. The only basis for skepticism so far has been from the failure of sub-developed units made in the past. Is that where it should be left? If so, I guess we'd still be using horses and buggies, we'd have never gotten off the ground, propeller aircraft would never have been replace with jet aircraft... the list goes on and on. So, if you want to disprove it, then specific techno-mechanical reasoning must be provided as to why.
On the opposite side of the coin, the author must be prepared to support the claims with verified, independent documentation and technically correct information. The claimed experience of one person does not a fact make without supporting information and data. And if everyone would go back and read the original post, he did say... find out for yourself, and to feel free to ask questions.
I suggest you do that.
Hey Kevin....
DEISEL FUEL!!!!!
UNFAIR TAXES!!!!!
Hehehe, I had to do that.. :D
Sorry Mark. I followed your link to all of GONMAD's pictures and descriptions, and feel like an idiot...lol!
And now I'm intrigued all over again! This actually looks like an affordable experiment that might actually work...the premise is sound anyway.
Okay...so getting back on topic. Let me see if I understand correctly how the HYCO works.
The basic premise is that gas is fed to the carburetor normally, right? But is also fed to the carburetor through the overflow ports by the enhancer. Do I have that right?
Okay, so the enhancer is getting fed by the HYCO, which is basically a container that bubbles the gas into vapor.
That vapor then gets fed into the carburetor overflow ports, right?
So a couple of questions. What feeds the gas into the HYCO unit? Did you add a secondary fuel pump, or is it being fed by the electric fuel pump, the mechanical fuel pump, or both?
I see in the pictures that there is a float in the HYCO, which I imagine is there to keep a constant level of fuel in the HYCO for atomization, correct?
What is creating the bubbles? Is it just the fuel pouring into the HYCO through the tube ends that have the spurgers on the ends, or is there another element I'm missing?
Why is there a tube running to the vacuum port on the carb? Is vacuum used to create the bubbling in the HYCO, or is the vaporized fuel also being fed into the vacuum port as well as the carb overflows?
Another question I have: The purpose of the air filter in the pictures. Is that small air filter a part of the HYCO system?...What is drawing the air into the HYCO from that filter, the manifold vacuum?
And you ran aluminum tubing on your headers to preheat the vaporized fuel from the HYCO. So I'm guessing the fuel goes from the tank, to the HYCO, into those tubes to preheat the vapor, which then goes to the little valve, and then to the carb? Is preheating the mixture necessary, and are you currently using the preheated mixture? Just wondering why it gets preheated at all, since its a cold vapor system, correct?
This unit actually looks like it would be easy and inexpensive to build, so like I said, I'm intrigued all over again and am really thinking about trying it! It doesn't look like anything but the air cleaner is getting altered very much, and everything looks like its reversible back to stock without major expense, like a new carb or anything...so it very well might be worth trying! And you all know how many miles we put on our RV!
I'm game to try this idea since it looks doable on a budget, especially since GONMAD has already went through a bunch of prototypes and has hammered out some of the issues already.
And to GONMAD personally...if I purchase the book...its only 18 bucks...from Eagle Research, that clears away the legalities of copyright. Once I purchase it, can I ask you more specific questions either in email or PMs to see what you did differently, and to see what parts you used and where you got them?
I'm thinking seriously about trying this...hey, anything for more power and better fuel economy, especially since this looks pretty affordable.
Who knows! If it works out, I might follow your lead and try an HHO! Just one experiment at a time though...lol!
Thanks! And again, my apologies to GONMAD and Mark.
Kev
Smokey Yunick was a hero of my Grandpa's....One of Grandpa's Hudson race engines he had under his bench was possibly built by Smokey..He never knew for sure...we will never know :(
Kevin, in a nutshell, no gasoline goes through the HYCO. THe HYCO generates Hydrogen Gas by using electricity to separate the hydrogen from the water using electrolysis . The Hydrogen in turn then gets sent to the carburetor to augment the Gasoline vapor.
I think (and GONMAD correct me if I am wrong) the fuel savings is that you either have a more efficient burn in the piston chamber, or you can reduce the amount of gas your using due to the Hydrogen augmentation.
Not sure about that, Frederic. The post is titled cold vapor, and if you look at all his pictures, there don't appear to be ANY electrodes in the HYCO. Although I could be wrong. It looks more like a set amount of fuel goes into the HYCO shut off by the float, and then gets highly aerated by the spurgers, turning it into a vapor that somehow makes its way to the carb.
HHO generators use electrodes and water, but the HYCO appears to be a totally different animal, aerating the gas violently to create vapor.
I could be wrong, and can't wait for more details from GONMAD! I've got a lot of questions about this system, and if it works in the RV, I'll put one in the 85 K5 Blazer as well, with its carbureted 350 engine...although I'm not sure how these would hold up to heavy offroad use...lol!
Again, it appears to me from the pictures in GONMAD's album, and the title of this thread, that a HYCO is a gasoline aggitator that furiously froths up the gas to turn it to vapor. And I'm not sure I'd want to run electrodes into gasoline...lol!
Kev
"Where does all the air used to "froth the gasoline violently" go? If it is contained, it would build pressure, if it is vented, then you have a fire and explosion potential (as well as the enviromentalists hanging you by an organically grown rope for releasing hydrocarbons into the atmosphere.). If it is all routed to the engine, is the additional air accounted for in the fuel/air mix ratio? I've torn down engines that were run lean before... the excessive temps can do massive damage. from melted pistons and valves, burnt valve seats, warped or cracked heads, or cracked manifolds.
If the fuel air mix is enrichened with additional fuel to account for the additional air, how does that factor into the mileage savings? Is the gas vapor alone the only source of enrichment? and if so, what measures are taken to ensure the A/F ratio in the combustion chamber remains at least 14:1? Any higher than that can cause excess heat, knocking & pinging, and engine damage under anything but a very light load.
"The stoichiometric mixture for a gasoline engine is the ideal ratio of air to fuel to allow all fuel to be burned with no excess air. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric airâ€"fuel mixture is about 15:1[1] i.e. for every one gram of fuel, 15 grams of air are required. The fuel oxidation reaction is:
{\frac {25}{2}}O_{2}+C_{8}H_{{18}}\to 8CO_{2}+9H_{2}O
Any mixture less than ~15 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture; any more than ~15 to 1 is a lean mixture â€" given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane). In reality, most fuels consist of a combination of heptane, octane, a handful of other alkanes, plus additives including detergents, and possibly oxygenators such as MTBE (methyl tert-butyl ether) or ethanol/methanol. These compounds all alter the stoichiometric ratio, with most of the additives pushing the ratio downward (oxygenators bring extra oxygen to the combustion event in liquid form that is released at time of combustions; for MTBE-laden fuel, a stoichiometric ratio can be as low as 14.1:1). Vehicles using an oxygen sensor(s) or other feedback-loop to control fuel to air ratios (usually by controlling fuel volume) will usually compensate automatically for this change in the fuel's stoichiometric rate by measuring the exhaust gas composition, while vehicles without such controls (such as most motorcycles until recently, and cars predating the mid-1980s) may have difficulties running certain boutique blends of fuels (esp. winter fuels used in some areas) and may need to be rejetted (or otherwise have the fueling ratios altered) to compensate for special boutique fuel mixes. Vehicles using oxygen sensors enable the air-fuel ratio to be monitored by means of an airâ€"fuel ratio meter." -Wikipedia
I just read the opening chapters of the books GONMAD recommended...you can read the opening chapters for free.
I'm still getting my head around all this, especially on how the actual system works. How fuel is fed to the HYCO, and how it gets to the carb specifically.
LOTS of questions now that I am seriously considering this. The opening chapters give a glimpse into the sound science behind it, and GONMAD is actually using it with good results.
If it really is as simple as it appears, I'm willing to at least try it...maybe first in the K5 as a tester...and see how it works.
It appears though that there would be 2 books to buy at 18 bucks each. Once for the Carb Enhancer...something about rerouting vacuum lines to create a pressure in the float bowl...and the main one about the HYCO2A.
Still not a major investment.
To even THINK about a major investment like a Gear Vendor, I need more power to make it even barely worth it.
So lets start with the HYCO. It will be my first experiment once GONMAD responds, followed by a HHO gen...and if that works out, MAYBE I'll consider the expensive Gear Vendor.
Kev
Where do we get all this electricity to cause this reaction ??? And at what cost....the harder the alternator works the less MGP we get.....we can get drinking water out of ocean water too but we need a power plant to get the power to do so....therefore we its too expensive ....with "current" technology....
Again, getting back on topic, this is a fuel vaporizer/atomizer that sends vapor to the carb, if I'm understanding this right. NOT a hydrogen gen with electical input of any kind.
I want to know how the HYCO works before going further into the HHO gens and whatnot.
Kev
All joking aside this would be great but its doubtful this is viable....if in fact it was, there would be an IPO and many wall street fat cats would be stealing even more money from you than they did yesterday.
Please, Please, Please, "Prove me wrong"
Okay, so I stand corrected as to the power plant. I'll get back to HHO when we get back to that.. :D
Gentlemen, Thank You. The HYCO is a stand alone VACUUM device. nothing electrical happens inside. Vacuum is pulled off the top & connected to the port in front of the primaries & you will completely close off the idle adjustment screws The float is for replenishing the vaporized gas drawn into the engine. At no time is any pressure present gas boils in a vacuum & that's part of the principle, I'll explain the enhancer first. A control valve is for regulating the volume drawn into the carb from the vacuum source ( either the PCV line or separate). I like to isolate all the lines so as not to pollute the effect of the devices IF possible. All Carbs have bowl vents for pressure balance & overflow precautions etc. A slightly smaller tube is used to allow the vent to work as intended when the engine is shut off, but while the engine is operating a vacuum is applied to the bowls to 'pulloff' a slight amount of hot vapor always present in the bowls at the top. The valve is only opened slightly 1/4 turn is roughly correct or thereabouts. If you open it too far the engine WILL immediately shut down. Close the valve some & try snapping the throttle open until the engine doesn't quit & it'll be good. It's important not to close off the normal function of the vents If the vent tube is 1/4" then use a 1/8" tube for each bowl. LEAVE ROOM FOR IT TO BREATHE or failure results. I sure everyone is fully capable to perform this mod. You'll feel,smell & hear the difference. This system is a stand alone & can be utilized on ANYTHING with a Carb. The Edelbrocks & Carters need to have the pull tubes re shaped to fit PARTIALLY into the vents. Holleys are no problem. DO NOT BLOCK THE VENTS! This MOD makes the bowls a part of the engine environment & NOT outside ambient air conditions. ( WE even have this on our Lawnmowers & portable generators). This HAS to be in place FIRST & only the n can the HYCO can be installed. The Enhancer is not hooked to any fuel source. I hope I haven't caused any confusion here & the results ARE immediate if done properly. It;ll make a big block anything tremendously responsive & or "ZIPPY" It helps to have your vacuum advance hooked to a timed vacuum port I use an advance curve kit in the distributor. I use one heavy spring & the medium spring & it won't usually detonate. I also set timing to 10 degrees initial & 34 degrees TOTAL & I run regular gas with no "PINGING". I'll also share something extra. GM HEI is a very good ignition & versatile There is a module with 5 plugs on it & the extra plug is for a KNOCK sensor You can use this for a high gear retard to pull the timing back 10 degrees. I use it on systems with N2O or boost. It is usually hooked to WOT switch & should only be needed if you have a high compression engine. OR NOT! The use of the preheater made the whole system unstable due to varying temperatures as the engine heats up & we no longer use it. It wasn't dangerous just unnecessary. Parts that are not there cant break kind of thing. Once again my purpose is to enlighten & inspire & not to cause anyone trepidation. IF this sound like BS then please turn your attentions elsewhere & have a good life. This for the greater good & NOT monetary gains except at the pump. Good day ALL... GONMAD
Okay. So the preheater doesn't get used so that simplifies the system a bit.
How well does PVC hold up to gasoline over time?
And what about the small air cleaner thingy? Is that also a part of the HYCO?
I'm still trying to figure out exactly how this thing froths up the gas. Is it the fuel pressure coming through the spurgers creating the vaporizing effect? I can see clearly in your transparent demo model that it works, but how does it work? So if I understand this correctly, the vacuum line in front of the primaries is drawing a vacuum FROM the HYCO, sucking the gas vapor into the carb circuit? And I'm guessing the carb's vacuum effect is drawing more vapor out of the HYCO though its vents? Or does the big vacuum line somehow have something to do with agitating the fuel? And back to my other question, what is feeding the fuel to the HYCO? Is it just Teed into the fuel line, or does it have its own fuel pump? And if its Teed into the fuel line, is it before or after the mechanical pump that it gets Teed into?
What is causing the spurgers to actually operate? Is it the fuel entering the system via the fuel pump pressure, or is the vacuum line somehow doing it? And if its the fuel line and the float shuts off the fuel, wouldn't that immediately stop the agitation process, which would stop vaporization, or does the vapor get drawn off fast enough to keep the fuel flowing and agitating? And if its the vacuum doing the agitating, how is it doing it? Not sure I'm understanding the HOW of how it works.
Thanks!
Kev
Okay again. Now that I've looked more closely at the pics and descriptions, I now understand that the Carb Enhancer isn't hookup at all to the HYCO and is its own system, although I have no idea how its supposed to work. It goes into both carb vents, then to a valve...and then to manifold vacuum? What is that supposed to do? You said it draws off the hot vapor from the bowl...what else does it do and why? And how safe is it for gas vapor to go into the hot manifold?
So if the Enhancer pretty much has nothing to do with the HYCO, how does the HYCO feed the carburetor the vapor? Through the big vacuum port in front of the the primaries? And how does the vapor get made again, without drawing air into the system at the same time?
Or is the HYCO in line with the fuel system, and the aerated fuel is being fed directly into the carburetor's normal fuel inlet?
I'm not getting it. If the vacuum line in front of the primaries is drawing a vacuum off the HYCO, then doesn't that get sucked into the intake manifold, bypassing the carb altogether? So what, its drawing air though the air filter, into and out of the HYCO via the spurgers and aerating the gas, and then into the intake manifold?
Where does the fuel then go from the HYCO? I know the vapor is getting sucked away by the vacuum, but there is a fuel pickup tube in your HYCO pictures fed from the bottom of the HYCO tank. Does that go directly to the carb fuel inlet then? What about the bottom fuel feed?
I'm confused. Please tell me step by step how the fuel goes from the fuel tanks, to the carburetor, with all the steps in between...and if it splits off in its journey, please paint that picture for me too. I need to know how the fuel get to the HYCO, to the carb, if there is any crossover, and how the vapor gets to either the carb of the manifold.
Simplify this for me please...lol!
Kev
Kevin, GONMAD bless his heart embellishes his posts and that makes it difficult to glean the pertinent information from what he is telling us. That is not a flame.
I went back through the entire thread and pulled the information less his other verbiage and he clearly states how this process works, what is needed and how it is connected.
One item I missed previously was how the fuel is vaporized. No power, electricity, heat, etc is used. He uses vacuum to cause the fuel to boil. Manifold vacuum. The canister is a vacuum chamber where the fuel is introduced. Think back to high school physics. To lower the boiling point of a liquid you introduce a vacuum. You can get water to boil at room temperature.
The vaporized fuel is then introduced to the carb through the bowl vent. What I havent figured out is how the vapor is drawn from the cannister without disturbing the vacuum.
If you have a printer, copy and paste his posts to a single document, remove his embellishments and then gou will get a very clear image of this process.
Cool, literally... The Fuel is COLD boiled.. So the "EEEK! It's gonna esplode!!" fears are alleviated..
From what I can glean from what GON wrote, once the vacuum is at the point the fuel boils off, and I am guessing the vacuum doesn't have to be very strong as gas already has such a low boiling point, it's just matter of maintaining and varying the vacuum depending on what needs demand..
Whereas water has a initial boiling point of 212 degrees Fahrenheit at 1 atmosphere of pressure (sea level), gasoline has an initial boiling point of ~90 degrees F. (BTW, Don't confuse BP with Flash Point), so fuels' BP in a vacuum depends on the vacuum itself, I.E. the mmHg level.
My brain hurts, so I am going to pause there..
That's how I feel when Dave talks about electrical things... D:oH!
Thanks Gonmad, You answered most of my questions about the system. I was under the impression it used air from some source to blow bubbles thru the gasoline. Not that it was a vacuum system that kept the gasoline chamber under negative pressure. I am aware that gas (or any other liquid) can be made to boil at room temperature, if you can reduce the pressure enough. This is how A/C systems work too. When the freon passes thru the orifice tube, it goes from a high pressure to a low pressure... which causes the freon to boil and change from liquid to vapor. This change of state is what allows freon to cool... see here: http://www.saburchill.com/physics/chapters/0103.html
To make sense of all of this one has to step back and learn/re-learn how a carburetor works. The air bleeds in conjunction with the emulsifier initially atomize the fuel prior to be entered into the air stream by the primary venturis. The atomized fuel/air mixture becomes vaporized in the vacuum region below the throttle plate.
He said the idle mixture screws were closed. The high vacuum at idle would produce more vacuum in device, higher vaporization so higher concentration of vapor injected to air bleed. However, there is also much lower main feed at idle which is why you have the idle circuit in the first place. I believe he is also using manifold vs ported advance vacuum. This drastically changes idle timing.
This device performs early vaporization of a small portion of fuel which I believe is then feed into air/fuel mixture via the air bleeds. This is the air supply that is used by the emulsifier tube.
In order to increase fuel mileage you have to increase fuel/air ratio (14 - 17 to 1). I think that is a large part of what this is device is attempting to change by introducing vaporized fuel into the emulsifier tube air bleeds. I am doing a little more research on this.
Parts of this that are getting missed on everyones radar is that GONMAD has also said in this thread:
He has only indicated he has measured a 2 MPG improvement with this device
He has re-curved his distributor. Usually done to improve HP performance.
He has not said if he has changed the vacuum advance curve also which affects MPG performance.
He has installed a gear vendor unit which in itself can increase gas mileage.
Not sure what other modifications he has made to his engine (headers, etc.).
So, be careful trying to compare his MPG improvements to a stock engine.
Additionally, in many states, any modification to the fuel system will result in failing emissions requirements. Do no get yourself in a legal bind. Many manufactures experimented with lean burn systems in the late 70's. It was emission requirements that drove them away from that.
Dave
I see what you mean Mark. ???
Lol, J/k
Hope I didn't scare everyone away. ??? Did not mean to. Sorry if I did.
Nah, I can usually follow along till you get to the big words...lol j/k
:D
Greetings to ALL, I just returned from my trip & I'd like to supply some info that might clarify a few things... or not.
First look up Carl Benz Fuel vaporizer. YES THE Mercedes BENZ guy. HE designed one in the 1890's & used it on a motorcycle!
Second. Here's a link for another site with results.
http://www.lawbright.com/energy/vapor.htm (http://www.lawbright.com/energy/vapor.htm)
http://www.lawbright.com/energy/ (http://www.lawbright.com/energy/)
I'm almost sure there are more websites on this subject & I surely hope someone has the books by now & boy I'm impressed with the amount of speculation concerning this subject. However the full schematic & component diagrams are in Wizemans books. It's NOT that complex & needs to thoroughly read & understood before much can be accomplished. Here are some pics of the enhancer in MY pic section.
Once again I am not in this for profit & am bound by copyright laws so you MUST have your own books. They weren't too expensive & well worth it.
I'm not just an engine re builder but an engine designer as well in the fact that the engine in the BRE RACING ENGINES DRAGSTER is a design of our own.
http://www.billetracing.com/ (http://www.billetracing.com/)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1VkAUblKmY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1VkAUblKmY)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY6KPeR9iXs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY6KPeR9iXs)
WE MAKE OUR OWN ENGINES from BILLET. It makes 4000 hp on Nitro methane. I know it's not for an RV but I'm NOT a backyard bumbler or parts changer. I respect the accolades of my fellow RVer's & hope to clear up any misconceptions regarding this matter. I DO have my own white Labcoat if that will help any. Good day to all
Gonmad,
Do you still have the VW Dragster you ran in 2006? Did you drive it? If I am ever in the Fort Myers region, it would be an honor to meet you.
Don T.
Quote from: ClydesdaleKevin on February 08, 2014, 09:55 AM
Okay again. Now that I've looked more closely at the pics and descriptions, I now understand that the Carb Enhancer isn't hookup at all to the HYCO and is its own system, although I have no idea how its supposed to work. It goes into both carb vents, then to a valve...and then to manifold vacuum? What is that supposed to do?You said it draws off the hot vapor from the bowl...what else does it do and why? And how safe is it for gas vapor to go into the hot manifold?
So if the Enhancer pretty much has nothing to do with the HYCO, how does the HYCO feed the carburetor the vapor? Through the big vacuum port in front of the the primaries? And how does the vapor get made again, without drawing air into the system at the same time?
Or is the HYCO in line with the fuel system, and the aerated fuel is being fed directly into the carburetor's normal fuel inlet?
I'm not getting it. If the vacuum line in front of the primaries is drawing a vacuum off the HYCO, then doesn't that get sucked into the intake manifold, bypassing the carb altogether? So what, its drawing air though the air filter, into and out of the HYCO via the spurgers and aerating the gas, and then into the intake manifold?
Where does the fuel then go from the HYCO? I know the vapor is getting sucked away by the vacuum, but there is a fuel pickup tube in your HYCO pictures fed from the bottom of the HYCO tank. Does that go directly to the carb fuel inlet then? What about the bottom fuel feed?
I'm confused. Please tell me step by step how the fuel goes from the fuel tanks, to the carburetor, with all the steps in between...and if it splits off in its journey, please paint that picture for me too. I need to know how the fuel get to the HYCO, to the carb, if there is any crossover, and how the vapor gets to either the carb of the manifold.
Simplify this for me please...lol!
Kev
You maybe got your answer already, as I see this is a little over a year old, but just in case you didn't.
What the carb enhancer does is take vacuum and port it to the float bowl chamber to reduce the atmospheric pressure acting on the fuel in the bowl. This in turn reduces the amount of fuel that flows from the carb into the comb chamber.
Think of it in an opposite manner. If you put a 100 psi compressed air source where you are putting the carb enhancer, how much more fuel would flow out of the carb to the comb chamber.
So reduce the pressure in the float chamber and reduce the amount of fuel flowing out of the carb. Plug the float chamber vent where the carb enhancer is plumbed and no fuel will flow out.
What this does in my opinion is lean the fuel mixture, and I'm not sure I want to do that on my motorhome just yet. Leaner will in most cases make hotter temps which could cause damage, I'm not saying it will, obviously the 1983 Honda has been running forever with the Carb Enhancer.
I think I might order the manual anyway because I'm very interested in the idea and may employ this on my carbed 1972 El Camino to see what kind of improvements can be seen.
Alright, I bought the book and according to George, this process does not lean the fuel/air mixture, but reduces the amount of liquid fuel going into the engine.
Still reading, interesting, glad I bought the book.
sounds like a interesting Idea. Vaporizing fuel definitely saves fuel, that's why diesel with direct injection are so good, the inject with 3000psi or more.
But there are way to many variables. You could probably built a water injection system for half the cost and also get 2 mpg or better. Not because you would be burning water, because you could advance the timing and burn very lean without burning the engine, but as soon as the water system fails you kill that poor engine.
I like the carb enhancer, because the cost is nothing for most folks. I've the hose/tubing in my tool box and I'm sure I have some kind of valve and if not should be able to buy one for 5 bucks or less.
I bought the manual and after reading more I do want to try it on my motorhome.
Unlike the water injection, there is nothing to run out of and if you don't want to use it for what ever reason, you can de activate it in about two minutes (depending on how you set it up)and you're on your way again.
I have a big trip planned in May so hopefully I'll get it done for that trip. I have a number of other things that will take priority, I just bought the MH in November and have not had much of a chance to whittle away at my squawk list yet.
Hello to all,
It's been a while since any interest has been posted & it's good to see it. First off, the 'enhancer' pulls the vapor off the areas over the boiling fuel IN the carb & is equalizing the pressure within it balancing it with the environment at the engine. It is NOT a sealed system, you have to leave a small amount open to the atmosphere or ambient air pressure. If you have ever looked at any of these aftermarket racing carbs you will see the fuel in the bowl boiling from the heat generated by the engine.This vapor is pulled into the engine at the point connected to the manifold or the carb vacuum takeoff. The metering valve is only opened up slightly for it to operate. This part MUST be in place first & then you can go on to the HYCO.
Secondly, I changed the system so as to fill it(the HYCO) with fresh fuel every time it's started. If you look at the bottom fill block you will see on it a fill line, you'll also see the RETURN line hooked to it as well. This allows the fuel to return to the tank when engine shut down occurs. This is done to also pull a vacuum on the main fuel tank (you must run a non vented system at this point for this to work properly). Another benefit, the need for the super expensive three way valve is eliminated & a much cheaper two way valve is used instead. With the system setup this way you must wait (upon startup) for the HYCO to fill before you start your engine. This only takes a few seconds. This method assures you of having fresh gas at startup every time. I use a holley electric pump set to 3.5 lbs. as a lift pump to the manual pump at the engine with a relay off the keyswitch for activation. To start the engine at this point, after the fill light goes off I mash the pedal to the floor, let up & crank the engine. I don't need a choke anymore & this is the normal starting procedure for just about any engine so it should be second nature at this point. So far with My unit set up this way there is no maintenance & it's been working FLAWLESSLY ever since I installed it. The power & mileage is like that of a hot rod & squeezer all in one.
In short.. Go BUY the books necessary to clear up ALL misconceptions about how everyone THINKS it works. I'm SURE thirty or so dollars won't kill anyones pocketbook for this knowledge.
I'll make up a detailed instruction diagram & schematic on how I modified the system for MY application.
While I'm here I'll enlighten everyone about what my brother & I are doing for our HEALTH. We have at our disposal HHO generators. With these units we are treating distilled water by inserting the output hose from the HHO unit to the bottom of the distilled water jug for twenty or so minutes. This creates highly activated water which I've been drinking for approx. nine months now I my health hasn't been this good for quite a while now. A few years ago I suffered 6 widowmaker heart attacks in one morning dieing in the chopper on the way to the hospital. They told me to "Take it easy for the rest of my life". I can't live with that kind of directive & decided to improve my health myself & now i feel at least twenty years younger. I'm sure the hydrogenated water has everything to do with it. Go to the section at Eagle Research regarding BROWNS GAS & watch the VIDS. All for now folks. If ANYONE has any questions feel free to contact me in this venue.
I wish good health to all & try to make someone smile.
GONMAD
Hello Again to ALL!, I have a new addition to the HYCO usage. On a 454 suburban we use for heavy towing is a HYCO unit installed only the output from the HHO Generator feeds directly to the air inlet of the HYCO. This makes a form of Peroxide (which burns readily). The difference is quite noticeable & power & mileage figures aren't available yet but is estimated at 12 to 15 mpg. Considering it weighs in at 7700 lbs. with no overdrive. It WILL pull a 12000 lb. trailer with ease now! I'll provide pics on how it's done so as not to cause confusion. A newer type HHO unit much cheaper than our previous unit (around $290.00 WITH a PWM pulse width manager) is the device in use now. It makes 7 liters per minute & more than enough for a hungry big block. I'll give a link to the supplier for simplification purposes. It's hot here & the snowbirds have flown home. Plenty of time to do research & sweat! I wish good health to ALL & I'll be posting again soon. C YA! GONMAD
Please do update us with the comparison data on mpg before and after. Also, I don't know if you did anything to document hp and torque before installation, but it would be great to have solid data on these as well.
You've done an awesome job of explaining the principles, the methods, and the mechanics of the system and I appreciate this greatly as it's always been a topic of extreme interest.
I know in the past I siad I have seen these type of things and they did not work. There is a lot of interest in this and several members have said they were going to put one together. Did anyone actually do it and what are your findings?
Gonmad, I am curious if anyone has put one of these systems together for a Jeep that runs at off angles? Does the unit have to be level or close to it all the time?
Hello Rick, in regard to the unit operating at angles I haven't had the opportunity for that instance. I plan to try my HYCO on my LS6 in the Nomad soon as I received a Dominator custom modified by a good friend that sells collectible carbs & Pro Mod carbs. Pretty cool stuff.
With the float assembly on a guide shaft it has to be on the level. I'm looking at another option by attaching a Holley center hung float bowl for the refill cutoff. This would eliminate the fragile float assembly & one less electrical circuit. At this point it wouldn't matter how steep the angle is, just have the float bowl face forward. Things have been hectic around here lately & truing to catch up with research is trying at times. but My Brother has been working on a way to lessen the cost of materials for the HYCO. I'll be back with more pics & info soon. It's nice to see an active mind at work. Thanks for the correspondence & I'll be back. GONMAD
I am going to be retiring soon and I will have time to work on a project like this. The down side is the low fixed income so it would have to be manageable price wise. But if it works and get me better mileage then I may be able to travel more.
Hey Kevin... I was just reading your post & you are correct in the flow process so far. The K&N filter IS for cleaning the incoming air to the HYCO. I quit the pre-heater as it created a variable not wanted at this time. however it might be useful in the colder climates, I don't know. All the parts are available at most any well drilling supply house & or good hardware store. I re routed the fuel system to drain the fuel from the main cannister back to the main tank via the return line off the fuel pump. This change negated the need for an expensive three way solenoid & is replaced with a standard hydraulic 12 vdc two port solenoid like the one for a line lock (roll control) (I blocked the return fitting on the mechanical pump). This assures fresh fuel every time you start the engine. It only takes a few seconds to fill initially. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. You won't be disappointed with the results! GONMAD