Classic Winnebagos & Vintage RVs

Well I have located a doner veh for the Transmission 4L80E with all the electronics BONUS It also has throttle body fuel injection + many other parts Serpintine drive belt w rotory A/C compressor Power steering pump with remote reservoir Square headlights tinted door glass etc etc.  The veh is a 1995 Chev G30 ext Van. w 240000 mi in the odometer Let the butchering commence  Frank

Are you swapping the engine too, then?  Or adapting your existing engine to TBI?

I swapped a 4L80E from a 1991 V2500 4x4 Suburban into my 1990 V2500 4x4 Suburban.  It required a swap of the trans and all its mounting components (crossmember, front & rear driveshafts. . . ), and the ecm and complete wiring harness, because the ecm controls both the engine and trans.  Fortunately, almost everything on the engine just plugged into the new harness.

The reason for the swap was the 1990 3/4 ton was the last year that got the TH-400 trans, and the 1991 was the first year of the 4L80E.  I honestly don't think I've seen any improvement in fuel mileage, but even so, I like having the overdrive and lockup torque converter.

Anyway, I like doing this kind of stuff, and have a little experience, so if I can help in any way, don't hesitate to ask!

Tommy

HI Tommy I plan on doing the Tranny first with all the wireing and controls . Then later the intake with the TBI . this eng has 300,000 mi and mine has 100,000 w good compression and it does not use any oil and has new crank brgs & oil pump  I keep you in mind when the s--- hits the fan Ha Ha   Frank

Hmm.  Something you'll need to think through, then, is how the engine & trans controls in the computer work together.  I've never heard of anyone using the transmission & ecm without running the TBI system. 

I do know the trans control portion of the ECM relies on the TPS (throttle position sensor), and am guessing it uses the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor, too.  So somehow you will need to devise some way to provide those signals.  A map sensor is easy enough -- it just needs a manifold vacuum source.  And I'd bet you can find a TPS to attach to your Quadrajet carb somehow. 

Without all the rest of the engine sensors and outputs connected, you can be sure to live with a check-engine signal, and it might go permanently into "limp home" mode.  I don't know if that will affect the trans control, though.

There may be more I'm not thinking of, and maybe you're already ahead of me on this stuff, but I thought I'd toss it on there, just in case it's helpful!

Tommy

Hi Tom. I am just starting to learn these syestems, And i see i need a 95 Chev manual (as all my 77 stuff does not apply) I am beginning to realize that i will have to do both mods as they are interconnected so much I also see my Shifter is another problem (B&M Floor) I think i will have to change the steering columns to get the 6 position shifter (wich luckily is a cable hookup) This veh does not have cruise so i will also have to update wiper T/S control Since i will have to overhaul the 4L80E (due to hi miles and replace convertor) I think i will just strip this veh. for now and wait till later to transfer. As the winnie is in fine operating condition now!! and its Traveling season  Frank

There is one other option An  Aftermarket transmission control setup with wireing and computor it is a bit pricey but probably resaleable when done with it  . Frank

Well Transmission is on the floor . This stuff is not as easy as it was 50 yrs ago!!  :)clap

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Intake TBI is on the bench along with serpintine belt parts im not shure 1977 cylinder heads have all the neccessary bolt holes for mounting these parts ? The cylinder block is ready to remove also.  And im going to pull the differential (wich is a posi ) not shure it is the same either but once the hull goes to the wrecker its gone. Frank

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You're off to a good start!  This may be a little late, but take lots of photos as you go.  They'll help you when you're ready to reassemble.  If you work like me, that may be months from now, and memories get fuzzy. . .

Tommy

Thanks Tommy, I am taking a lot of pics and i see that this has become a monster with mant tenacles all the way to to the speedometer assy and main wireing harness / steering column / fuel lines etc. 1 Question I have duel exaust w headers where should i install OXY sensor L/S -R/S or both   The original was near the tranny after the ex pipes came together into 1 pipe info i have seen says it should be within 12 in of ex port ?

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The best answer is to put the O2 sensor where it will read "both" sides, but since you have dual exhaust and a system with one O2 sensor, just pick the one where you can get the best location in terms of accessibility, wiring etc.  And closer to the engine is better than farther away because that is not a heated sensor, and the sensor needs to be hot to work.

Tommy

one other item to remember is that the water pump for a serpentine belt motor is reverse rotation. you can't interchange them with the older motors eventhough it will bolt right up

jkibert There are water pumps for both directions C/W & CC/W you only have to make shure you use the correct rotation The cooling syestem does not care as long as pump moves the coolant A C/W pump turning CC/W will not move any coolant The 1995 pump will work with the serpintine belt but the 1977 will not  Frank

Thanks to Franks post on Kevin's Quadrajet thread, I saw this book that might be helpful for this conversion.

http://www.cartechbooks.com/gm-automatic-overdrive-transmission-builder-s-and-swapper-s-guide.html (http://www.cartechbooks.com/gm-automatic-overdrive-transmission-builder-s-and-swapper-s-guide.html)

Dave

Thanks But I already have it.  But now i am useing a 4L80E  instead of a 700R4   Took it apart today and first look at parts inside Most of them look like the day they were manufactured . There was a very minimal amt of shavings on the magnet in the pan I have seen way more wear on trannys with 60,000 mi on them   i may even gamble on the torque convertor !!  Frank

I get the feeling that this tranny was just rebuilt recently (the veh sat for 3 yrs)  All the lined clutch plates (5 sets) I can still read the Raybestos name and part no on them The steel plates do not yet show wear patterns across full surface . Both bands are like new The only possible problem is the rear planetary drum where the reverse band rides shows some wear (less than .002) The frt pump shows no wear. I may get away with just gaskets and seals   Fantastic -  Frank

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After rechecking needed parts (a complete rebuild set is $1700.00)  Looks like gasket,seals,bushings,Thrust washers , fluid, assembly lube,wider frt band & a new spacer plate for the valve body will be about $400.00 Frank

400 is better than 1700!  Keep up with the awesome posts and pictures!  Complicated things, transmissions!...looks like when I took apart a grandfather clock once when I was a kid.  My folks weren't too happy about it...

Kev

After a visit to the local Transmission shop (for a second opinion)  i was able to cut the parts down to $250.00 So i also ordered a 6 ton press from Summit (New) $110.00 This will be a big help in replacing bushings instead of useing a hammer.   Valve body and frt pump good . Brazed a fitting into the pan for the temp gauge sender. Painted case. Waiting for parts !!!  Frank

[smg id=4242]

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Lookin' good!

Can I send you a couple of transmissions I need rebuilt?  Ha!

Tommy

If I was anywhere near you, Frank, I'd be over at your house volunteering every day to help you...so I could learn a little bit about rebuilding transmissions!  The most complicated things I've rebuilt are old VW aircooled motors, and they are WAY less complicated than that there transmission you are rebuilding.  Awesome job!

Kev

Rebuild Rear planetary This is low & reverse. New press removed old pins with ease. Frank

The pinion free play (.009-.024) Allowable I had .030 on 239783 mi unit This planetary is 1st & reverse gears New are very expensive and used are unknown wear. The rebuild kit from Sonnon was $35.00 The hardest part was staking the new pins they are very hard steel. By the third one i had a good syestem. after rebuild the avg end play was .015  Started reassembling units  Still waiting for an updated 34 element sprag to replace a 16 element (second gear)  Frank


[smg id=4243]

Holy crap!  That looks even MORE complicated than the grandfather clock I took apart when I was a kid...which, after a butt whooping from my Dad and the threat of being grounded for life, I did manage to put back together in working order.

That's just fascinating, Frank!  I do love gears and the way they work...looks like it would be a lot of fun to rebuild one if I had the tools and a garage to work in.  AWESOME!

Kev

The Only thing I can recognize out of the whole works is the can of Coors.   i??   Y!

Ha Ha Ya missed the mixed nuts cans !!

Thats most likely because they are now Mixed Nuts & Bolts cans  :)

Nah ! Washers and screws Frank

Well Trans. is allmost ready for transplant. Have to pull frt pump back out and install thicker shim end play out of spec by .006  But i need some advice on modifying the TBI intake manifold to fit my 1977 Cly heads Due to transmission electronic control unit (for determining gear applications) Needs info from engine speed / load (from TBI ign distributor) And temperature sensors / Manifold vacuume etc. So it has to be a TBI & Trans at the same time along with the wireing and speedo/ gauges/ steering column transplant. Plus i have some maintenence to do Replace L/R tail pipe ( i think i can use the one from the van) Another plus Stainless exaust parts. and modern hangers Also time to recoat roof. Cost of Trans so far $650.00  Frank

Looking good!  :)ThmbUp

Kev

Well i was able to use the overthe axel part of the van tailpipe (the hardest part to manufacture) Had to repair muffler, outlet broke loose removing old tailpipe, Nothing is easy, but turned out well.   I dont know what i am going to use for a gearshift It looks like useing the van steering column wont work as the angle between the two vehicles is very different .Project is on hold till after August Trip planned and this entire wireing harness swap will take a wile Frank

Looking good, Frank.

Awesome, keep the updates coming!

Tommy

I haven't seen any recent posts and was wondering how the project was coming.

Well the plan has changed Spent the winter overhauling the 95 engine im going to swap engine and trans as soon as the weather breaks !Purchased an engine stand & a crane The engine & trans are both ready for swap Will also have to change complete wireing harness and instument cluster Have already dropped fuel tank and and changed vent into a return line Have a new elec fuel pump with higher pressure 9-13 lbs needed for TBI Will have to make up some new air conditioning lines for rotary compressor 95 eng has serpintine belt Will see what driveshaft modifications are necc after units in place The 95 engine was in remarkable shape inside the most worn part were the camshaft bushings and the cam journals No wear on crank and main bearings looked like new The pistons measured stock and clys were in good shape ! Replaceing cam bearings is an experience without special tool( $185.00 for a 1 time thing ) New oil pump & water pump So now im just waiting will start on dash soon Can work inside with elec heat till sun returns . Frank

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A few more Made a timing mark tab for setting timing from the bottom as the top is very hard to see afterv installation  Frank

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Looking good Frank!

Kev

Crane works perfectly Transmission attached   Now to find convertor bolts ?

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Well Cold weather work, (with furnace running) Started on replaceing Dash wireing And modifying dash to house 1995 speedo cluster. Updateing all additional wireing that has been patched in over the years. Will have to splice in some 77 wireing as unable to use 95 steering column (too many differences) Wipers,ignition & heater, A/C Turn signals & dimmer + cruise will be original.  95 fuse panel is installed, Waiting for a 95 wireing book to arrive Ordered on E Bay  Frank

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Dont know what happened to these pics with ^^^ ? This is the 95 harness and fuse panel installed

Hmm Seems it will only show 1 pic even with 3 added This is the 77 harness with dash removed
?

Good Lord! ???

Had to make brackets to hold 95 speedo cluster Bolted to original holes in dash & nuts held in place (for reinstalling gauges from frt after dash reinstalled) With old faithful JB WELD   1St design   Frank

Wowsers!!!   Very impressive!!!!!

Frank you got way to much time on your hands or should I say you had to much time on your hands. :)rotflmao

Wow, what a project!

For anyone considering a 4L80 swap in the future, I understand that early 90's GM diesels used a stand alone computer to run the OD tranny and can be easily used for a swap.  Another option is the Megasquirt tranny controller, more of a DIY project but much cheaper than the standalone aftermarket units.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gpio-board-c-77.html?osCsid=dd3fa1c61394db7dbb4acf4b20d563c5

Engines, I'll tear them down & rebuild them all day long, some I can build probably blindfolded... Transmissions? Nope, no way. I wouldn't have a clue what to look for, nor how to put it back together. Although, it is a skill which I would have loved to have learned.

Well a couple nice days and progress ! Most of underdash 95 harness installed & wipers headlights and ign starter hooked up (due to the 95 haveing a starter relay built into it ) Im haveing problems with hooking up 77 Ign switch I cannot find a correct wireing diagram for the 95 G30 Van with 4L80E control unit . So till i get engine harness installed cant diagnoise wireing connections Also Winnebago brought all the tail t/s stop back up  & starter wireing into the cab thru a hole in the floor I think im going to tap into the 95 harness under the hood or at the rear As i have complete 95 harness .

I have had a problem for a long time that i could not find a cure for . During a rain i would find the pass side floor damp (driving or parked)  After removing the Radiator overflow bottle i found the rust holes under it Also on the other side i found where the squirell got in last winter and built his nest and chewed my speaker wires on the rear shelf . A hole in the bottom of the fresh air duct work . So ill have to do some body work wile site is open . Also have to move rear cross member back 3 in and if 95 driveshaft does not fit will have to have 77 shaft shortened 3 in Both frt motor mounts that i replaced in 2008 need replaced again . Rubber has broken loose from metal . I am also going to try to use 95 rad overflow bottle and aluminum radiator if they will fit . Frank     This sh-- aint as easy as it used to be !! Hm?

I thought i was not going to have to remove the frt bumper . But when it came time to hook up engine the crane would not go back far enough, Also had to remove 1 of my stabilizer jacks .  Now i have a rear engine 1977 Mini Winnie  Frank  :laugh:

 The TH400 Turbo trans , A perfectly operating Quadrajet And Alternator & starter  are for sale  trans have 101720 mi on it  Trans works pefectly and fluid is pink   As most of you know the only reason for taking itout is an update Not for any problems If interested send me a PM or contact @ vwmech  AT comcast  DOT net Frank  Also spare (new) starter and a couple alternators even an 100A model 

Opps forgot Also have a complete overhauled with all new electric parts HEI distributor  and a couple electric fuel pumps for carburated veh and a brand new Mr Gasket adjustable fuel pressure regulator Also an assortment of new and used fan belts , and a almost new (approx 3000 mi Rad clutch fan )  Frank

Well i got the fresh air duct repaired (stopped the squirell entrance) And repaired the water leak behinde the overflow bottle  and painted with rustolium rust restorer then  siliconed all repairs and seams , top coated shiny black . Install 95 eng and trans (12Hrs) just to get it mounted incl reposition trans x member and redrill bolt holes . Now i have a problem with rotary A/C compressor IT WONT FIT ! Two options no dash A/C   I Have roof unit and generator But that will destroy fuel mileage (the main reason for all this work) or modify dog house to make room for the compressor , This will require relocating acc pedal a few in to the left towards the brake pedal Requring left foot brakeing as right foot will be trapped under brake pedal MANURE COMETH !!But at least its in there and i have my garage space back . Decisions Decisions !! Frank

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Any way to relocate the AC compressor bracket?  Seems easier to relocate the compressor than to modify the doghouse and pedal arrangement.  It almost looks like you could flip it the other way around, although you might have to shorten the belt...there's always a way!

Kev

Curds & whey, milky Way anyway This just aint my day ! :'( The bracket is a 1 piece casting that goes all the way down and also holds the powersteering pump. i?? I hope i can find a serpintine belt that will work without the A/C compressor mounted till i collect more ideas.  $@!#@! Work will progress without concern for A/C for now still many other projects to be done .  :'(   have to have it running by May 20 for time to road test and Trap pond is in July then Ohio in August !  :(  Frank

I'd hit the junkyards. There must be another small block Chevy serpentine setup that is more compact.

After more thought I am going to check with chev Dlr parts dept as to any other brackets that would move compressor towards center of eng If there is no such animal i will modify original mounting bracket Easier than changing body of veh Frank

I did a little internet searching and it sounds like the 4.3 V6 brackets will also work. Check out a 4.3 bracket setup from a Astro van. The A/C and alternator are switched side to side on those. Other ones to look at are Camaro and Caprice setups but if width is a problem I don't think they will be any better. The S10 and Blazers also had a 4.3 V6 available so that might be different. Good luck!

P.S You might want to check out post #22 on this link. He is using a 2006 4.3 setup that seems pretty compact.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=426867 (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=426867)

Thanks for the connection Wanna These guys are the ones that are into all things Chevrolet Swaps using mismatched parts from all years & models I see ideas here that i need Thanks again Frank

No problem, hope it helps.

If you need some measurements I have access to a 2005 1500 4.3 V6 route truck at work. It looks the same as the 2006 setup with A/C on the DS and alternator on PS. It appears pretty compact to me but A/C lines will probably be an issue for you.

 I had to have my 2 piece  driveshaft shortened 3 in (there were no other frt shafts of correct length)Due to center mount the difference is only in the front shaft  The closest place i could find was Collis Truck Parts in Northampton Pa  www.collistruckpartsonline.com (http://www.collistruckpartsonline.com)  610-837-7268   They have been in business for 65 yrs and estimate they have 4 Million Tons of spare parts in stock There driveshaft area has over 100 thousand driveshafts all hanging from racks Very impressive !!This would be a good sorce for hard to find parts  Frank

Frank,
I believe thats http://www.collistruckpartsonline.com/ (http://www.collistruckpartsonline.com/)
not
http://www.collisiontruckpartsonline.com/ which results in server not found

Dave

Even tho winter has returned (35o at night & 50o daytime temps).  I have been doing some work inside ,And after 77 yrs learning about aluminum welding ! I had to fabricate a bracket for the cruise control cable and i have a lot of aluminum scraps sooo ! I have also decided on cutting and welding the A/C bracket as there are none that would move it far enough over, I had to switch valve covers to get the oil filler pipe out of the way and away from dog house wall on L/S made those brackets from steel & used a piece of washer drain pipe with hose clamps after cutting filler pipe curves out. Turned out well. Also had to add a heated CO% sensor to exaust syestem . (for FI operation ) All the wireing is in except drilling the hole in the floor to connect the control unit wich lives under the L/F seat . Cannot use the 95 floor mats as its dog house was larger . Now to figure out how to connect the starter, Wich now will go thru a relay wich is controlled by the computor  As soon as i get it mounted Frank

Oi vey!  Complicated, but its awesome that you are figuring it out!  Great problem solving skills!  You are almost there!

Kev

Looks like your "to do" list is getting shorter. I've never welded aluminum but did pick up a welder that can do it a couple years back though.  Maybe time to learn.  Hm?

Hi Wanna, I got some aluminum brazing rods H2000.  This stuff is fantastic for brazing aluminum (small /light stuff).  It can be done with propane or mapp gas.  Also works on large castings but you have to use oxy/acetlyne to get enough heat. The hardest part is that aluminum does not turn red it just melts and collapses @ 1218o.  This H2000 melts at 730o so you have some room to work in.  The brazed joint is stronger than the original metal I got some aluminum flux filled wire for my MIG and have to practice some with that.  But glad i have been pushed into this phase of manufacturing, learning a lot, purchased a Mapp outfit $65.00 rated @ 1200o this should do the trick. The oxy/ acet is tricky due to wile you are watching what you are repairing, the flame is destroying due to so much heat You have to use a cutting torch or a rosebud tip I only had the cutting tip Hm?   And all those times when i said wow if i could just weld aluminum this would be possible Now it is  :)clap Frank

H2000?  Will remember that the next time I want to weld up pin holes in a water heater.

Dave

I used it to fix cracked side covers on an old motorcycle. works really good. Just have to wire brush what your applying it to really well.

Opps,Sorry Dave its HTS 2000 & you have to use a stainless steel or brass brush. It has a hard time sticking if not brushed first, and you have to heat the material till the rod melts from contact with work not from the flame ! Its tricky due to small space (in temperature) that you have to work in. You have to get the work area above 740o but you cant go over 1215o or the aluminum just disinigrates. On the size of the casting i was working on,  i had to go to the oxy acetelene with a large tip ! (THe Mapp gas goes up to 1200o but the amt of metal was too great for it ). That was a little easier than the cutting torch wich made way too much heat ! Two people would be easier 1 to heat area and keep moving wile the other directs where heat is needed and applys rod . I also saw on line another product that uses a flux looked real easy joining 2 pieces. With this they reccomend tinning each piece first before trying to join together. I tinned a fish plate also and used that to join the parts rather than a butt weld. Its a learning thing like soldering pipes  The beginners kit is $55.00 Frank D:oH!

I had dabbled with a Mapp gas version back around 2005 but never got the hang of it.  One of those things that practice makes perfect.

Dave

I forgot to give ya the address New Technology products emailinfo@aluminumrepair.com  713-935-9292 Frank

Well The compressor mount is installed with the compressor, Plenty of clearance now, also have to reengineer rear brace to manifold bracket. I also added bolts and nuts to the fishplates in case weld fails.  Next higer,pressure elec pump and fuel lines.To the engine, Alsao have to mount the remote power steering resivour and power steering cooler from the 95 van.Frank

Heres the result of cutting two castings to make one that would allow room for the compressor !

Nice!!

Good work!  :)ThmbUp

A little more progress Installed the remote power steering resivouir (anyone with the original 77 setup will appriciate this) Also the P/S cooler from the 95. Replaced original electric fuel pump with higher output (for TBI) fuel pump and filter New House batterys & solinoid May as well have everything new at once !!    My son noticed That the angle on the A/C compressor is not correct (engineers dont ya love em) So after i get everything else done ill go back to the *@&** A/C again this feature has cost me over 2 weeks extra time already I will have to modify the compressor now as i am not going thru remaking the bracket again  !!  Frank

Almost there!

Kev

For reference:
Not sure what you got however the picture of yours looks like the one I have which is a 130 gal 14PSI electric fuel pump that I regulate down to 6PSI.   One thing about that pump is it is VERY VERY noisy.

Dave

This pump is from Mr Gasket The one i took off was from Holly they look identical . You cant see it from the picture but i have it mounted on a Chevrolet rear automatic transmission mount wich is bolted to the frame  .It is a block of rubber about 1 1/2 in thick . The holly was not very noisy  But my dual exaust thru very small mufflers (cherry bombs) make a lot of noise anyway . And i am hard of hearing too !! Frank

More Progress up to about 89%  TBI & Transmission computor installed (lives under L/F seat) made new transmission cable mount  and modified 3 speed lever (will not have access to manual low) But could not locate a floor shifter for 4L80E Install radiator support and plumbed in rad and trans cooler ..... A/C lines to be mfg And wireing to be completed Then install fiberglass frt end After initial road test (to make sure i dont have to do it all again )  :( :'(  Getting very tired of all this work !!!  6 to 8 hrs a day for the last 6 mo  ???   Frank

Looking better all the time though!  :)
Dave

Your doing a great job. The first drive should make all the work worth it. :)ThmbUp

Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on May 22, 2013, 11:32 AM
For reference:
Not sure what you got however the picture of yours looks like the one I have which is a 130 gal 14PSI electric fuel pump that I regulate down to 6PSI.   One thing about that pump is it is VERY VERY noisy.

Dave

Well i have progressed to where i have the pump wireing in Tried it and OK (i had to go back to the pump and put my hand on it to verify that it was running) Hardly any noise at all Also tried starter wireing cranked (without spark plugs) had 60 lb oil press on starter on mechanical gauge !! Also had spark & injectors spraying fuel,Tail light wires about all thats left till start up !!  Frank

Great to hear.  Exhaust system runs along same frame rail on mine which introduces heat.  I have mine mounted more outboard which is not as rigid as a frame rail so that may be resulting in the noise issue.

Dave

Serious snag all of a sudden Developed a short Wireing to ign swith started loosing smoke wile cranking Luckily starting batt is low (i dont want to charge it because i want to see output from alt when it starts) If its to low for starting after plugs installed Mom Will take care of it they are on the charger all the time I knew things were going too smoothly Frank $@!#@! $@!#@! $@!#@! $@!#@!

Sounds more like just a minor hick-up compared to all the stuff you have accomplished.  Dave

The bigest problem is I AM TIRED its been a long hard journey Being old is not compatable with a young mans work anymore  And any hicups are a real PITA !! But stiff upper lip and all that BS I will complete this or else !!But for right now (wile the sun is shining for the second day in a row) i have to solve my roof water leak that keeps wetting my rear cushion were i will sleep if i ever get back on the road Frank  :laugh: W% i?? :)rotflmao

You're almost there, Frank.  Pretty soon you'll be back on the road with a quieter, better running engine, more power, better fuel economy, and a dry rear cushion...lol!

Can't wait for the first road test!

Kev

Well a little more progress All wireing completed Seems short was old ign switch ? All accessories wired in to Aux fuse panel and new switches installed in dash . Had to replace 1 defroster hose (old one fell apart) Had to buy 6 ft to get a 3 ft piece @ NAPA only ones who carry it. I will get back to dash A/C later its taking up too much time. Tomorrows plan is finish installing dash ,spark plugs & wires Then .......Start up  W% At least thats my plan.  N:(  Also diagnoised no AC operation  on refrigerator Found AC heater was shorted out  $60.00 part Spent the end of last season using propane only  Roof still leaking also  $@!#@! Frank 

Also with 95 setup all dipsticks and fillers are upfront now I installed the 95 overflow resivouir also !Frank

Nice!  With the dipsticks and fillers all upfront, you won't have to keep pulling the doghouse to check everything at each stop on your travels.  I sure wish the dipstick for our transmission fluid ran to the front!  Its a pain in the butt with 2 dogs and a cat to pull the doghouse every time we stop...nevermind the heat that pours into the rig when we remove the doghouse. 

Kev

Kev I had solved that problem long ago. I cut a hole in the top of the dog house and made a cover out of 3/8 in thick plexiglass (painted w primer) Then made a clip to hold it down with a bolt that had to be loosened to remove it I could ck ATF easily or add fluid without removing dog house also it was enough of an opening to do limited visual inspection Would be great to check for percolating carb or seeing a leak . It was even enough room to set timing if necc !  ;)

Great idea Frank!  Wouldn't work on ours though.  Its rounded and carpeted.  I supposed I could engineer some sort of hatchway, but it wouldn't look nearly as clean and nice as the one you set up.

Kev

Houston We Have IGNITION !!  60 lb oil press cold 30 lb at idle hot . Took 4 hrs to install spark plugs and wires Had to remove L/S frt wheel to install L/S plugs, rear one has to be tightened with a open end wrentch on the end of plug socket as header wont allow extension into socket not enough room for a universal either. Also had to remove oil filter to get arm between headers and block . The 3rd plug on the R/S has to be tightened with a offset box wrentch from underneath . Torque on spark plugs Ha Ha Ha !!  I bought the most expensive platinum plugs hope i never have to replace them !! Installing the wires another PITA !! Still have to adj timeing install driveshaft & speedometer tie up loose wires etc . Install fiberglass frt end and bumper/ driving lights then state insp and road test !! Today is 1 mo past scheduled finish date !! Frank

Woohoo!!!!!!!!! :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp

Kev

Dash Done Ck. all gauges operational incl tach timing set , No leaks , Time to install Antifreeze . Driveshaft installed .Decided to install fiberglass frt end before road test (unfamiular with local lawmen ) And sticker is expired No need attracting attention ! See gauges engine is running!  Frank

Awesome Frank!  I can't wait to read about the road test!


Kev

Looks like me and wanta winni are going to road test about the same time All frt end assembled New carpet installed ! just have to put it on the ground adj the new 1995 square headlights and the new fog lamps get it inspected then make a local road test if all goes well a trip to Raystown will be next ! Frank  :D :D :D :D :D :D Will have to add pics after posting as its not allowing them with post AGAIN !!

Cannot post pics Camera set at smallest size VGA 640x480 but that = 164 KB and max is 150 KB Will have to go to colledge to learn how to use other method someday !! Frank

Got the Winnie State Inspected and road tested it 100 Mi All seems good leaving for Pittsburgh Fri will report on fuel mileage and difference in RPMS (Approx 1000 RPM less @ 55 MPH )After trip.  Only thing not completed is the dash air just ran out of time it will have to wait. Along with a slight modification on oil filler pipe, Its in the way of the air intake wich i am going to run up to a hood scoop During round 2  Frank

Congrats - Good luck on your trip

Nice job Froggy...have fun with it.

Well Bad News ! on the trip to Pgh yesterday on the turnpike i noticed suddenly the trans was staying in 3rd gear longer than previously after downshifting  Then i noticed the tranny temp climbing above 180o (where it had been running all day ) Then RPMs started climbing and speed was dropping off There was a pull off spot about 100 yds away wich i pushed to make wile trans started loud buzzing crawled into pulloff and stopped transmission cooling hose had developed a small leak and lost fluid . Jumping ahead now i have damaged 1st gear its hesitating and banging in  I belive this is either frt cluch or a band  So i will be redoing the trans instead of attending the rally i was so looking forward to  Sorry TJ i have your compressor on board BUT Sh-- happens  Frank

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Did you have to tow it home?

No i was able to make a temporary repair Used a piece of the original unused fuel line and the good part of the original hose . Luckily my son was in Pgh and on his way home in north Wales He dropped off 12 qt of fluid so i was able to continue to Pgh  I found out that this trans is capable of starting out in 2nd gear (for driving in the snow)  So i am going to try to make the jam at Jims in ohio then return home to make repairs Fingers crossed Frank P.S. Good Sam & AAA cannot tow on a limited access highway  I dont know if they will reimburse for a turnpike commission tow or not .

That sucks!

Well all is not bad. After a local roadtest,  i added a container of Gunk Transmission medic and performance improved almost immeadiatly. The hesitation on first gear engaugement improved tremendously. I now beleive that instead of burning the forward cluch plates i just glazed them, and the solvents in the additive is cleaning them off. I was able to make it to Jimco,s and i feel sure i can make it back home where i will pull the pan to inspect for material on the filter. If there is a lot i will pull it out and do  a complete teardown . If there is none just a fluid change will be the next step. Results of 4 speed W OD avg MPG went from 9.2 to 10.6 and RPM @ 58 MPH dropped from 2900 RPM to 2200 RPM  This not best yet as all roads traveled are very hilly  Frank

That is good news! Hopefully, no internal damage. Mileage improvement sounds good. :)clap

Well the adventure continues I was on my way back to north Wales via Pittsburgh to make some visits, When i noticed veh slowing down I was able to pull off roadway immeadiatly. Stopped checked fluids ck for leaks, etc. All was ok ,but trans fluid had the bad odor of burnt clutches , restarted put in reverse absolutly no engaugement just noise tried forward had a slight feel of pull but did not have faith in going any futher. Called Good sam Tow truck arrived 2 hrs later and towed back to Export (19 mi) I was able to pull back into parking place So now to Raise veh high enough to remove transmission and open it up It went 526.9 Mi since fluid loss and major slipping on Turnpike in July I was hope ing to make it back home to do repairs but fate intervined Luckily i was not on the Turnpike this time. Frank

Yipes..  Hope it's an easy fix..

Ughh, sorry to hear this.

Spent the day Raising the beast 1 1/2 ton NO !3 ton NO !Had to use both to raise ea side of the rear   The 3 ton handled the frt no prob . Filled all air bags to 90 Lb Hope its high enough gathering wood and lifting took 6 hrs ! Raining now hope to get it out tomorrow Frank

Ouch!  Hope it works out well for you and doesn't cost you too much.

Kev

Luckily my son stopped by on his way from Toronto to Philly and we pulled the trans out sat 9 hrs to remove . Had to remove engine dip stick tube and r/.s header, dissconnect l/s exaust @ header flange (Trans too wide to lower between exaust pipes ) Remove heat shields on ex also And unbolt rear cross member and slide (hammer) back 4 in  . Luckily we had a section of bowling ally to put down on the stones to make jack operation possible. With heavy cardboard for creepers . In the rain And down it came . It is very heavy about 250 lbs with convertor . Now veh has a mixture of sae and metric bolts . Had to go purchase metric tools to update toolbox in R/V . Its on the bench so Mon will dissessemble and clean . Frank

Well due to aggrivation mostly updating was delayed . After tear down found major damage (a lot from tow i beleive as driveshaft was not disconnected ) The forward and direct lined clutch plates were no longer lined ( this most likely was from original fluid loss most likely) The major damage, Frt pump bushings spun in there housings, Overdrive planetary totaly destroyed, forward clutch drum overrun clutch totally destroyed, Input shaft overheated to point of sealing rings being frozen into grooves,  These hard parts were not damaged for a long time, as there was very little metal in the pan on the magnet . Another reason to beleive major damage was from tow 19 mi. Luckily my grandson has a friend in the trans parts business and he was able to get me the necc parts New,used, rebuilt For $670.00 along with parts from other suppliers total in parts was $940.00.  This incl update to wider second gear band, Teflon coated frt pump gears, And pressure booster kit. + Fluid 13 qts I am now home in North Wales 360 mi road test, Trans worked flawlessly, Still have to redo fluid line connections to aux cooler, heavy duty rubber hose was too strong to slip on far enough for double clamps & now i am paranoid of fluid leaks.  MPG Alleg Valley to Valley Forge @ avg 60 MPH, was 10.2 MPG There were a few bursts up to 80 MPH Cant seem to avoid idiots . Engine has only used 1 pt of oil, on original break in fill, Time for first oil change . Personally i would rather have my Quadrajet back FI has very little omph !!  And the adventure continues  !! Looks really good as it goes by at 60 MPH though ! Frank

I don't know if youve thought about it, but upgrading from a 7 vane to a 13 vane pump will help increase line pressure and reduce slippage. Since its already in pieces it not an expensive item.   It's a common upgrade in the 700r4/4L60/4L60E trannys.      John

Ouch!  That was a pretty penny!  But at least you were able to fix it, and your gas mileage sounds great!

Kev

Hi John. Its already back together , And it does not use a vane pump. It has a gear pump. The pressure booster kits main purpose is to limit hi pressure in reverse (wich has caused cases to break )  It incorporates a bypass feature . Yet increases lower speed pressures in all gears. It worked very well my RPM,s @ 60 MPH dropped from 2800RPM with the Turbo 400 to 2100 RPM with the 4L80E  in 4th gear lockup . This trans will downshift to 3rd gear and still stay in lockup wich gives it direct drive in 3rd & 4th (no convertor) I am very happy with the trans swap , But not so much with the fuel injection. With the Quadrajet @ 60 MPH W cruise control i could pull 16 in of vacuume  With the FI at same speed w cruise i can only get 11 in of vacuume. Now this may improve as rings seat better The engine only has a little over 1000 mi on it  Frank

The latest update pertaining to engine (1995 rebuilt 350 W FI ) RPM with 4LE80 4 speed W OD & convertor lockup After engine break in & first oil change Latest Trip info.More info 4:10 gears W 8.75 x 16.5 tires  The 95 donner veh had 16 in tires  Frank

   
• @ 55 MPH = 1975 RPM
• @ 60 MPH = 2100 RPM
• @ 65 MPH = 2200 RPM
• @ 70 MPH = 2400 RPM 

Previous 3 speed Turbo 400 RPM @ 59 MPH was 2900 RPM

   Due to running for time I was not able to get best MPG.
                       

Hi Frank,


I wonder what kind of mpg you would get if you just changed to throttle body EFI w/o the OD?   Maybe run it in D (or 3rd) not OD for a few trips to see what the effect on mpg was with just the EFI conversion. Maybe you did this?


Todd

Hi I have not tried driveing in  3rd gear only, I did not install a OD lock out switch , And I do not have a 5 position gearshift (no manual low) I used the Turbo 400 floor shifter  I could not change the steering column for the 4L80E shifter ! But even WO the OD i would still get direct drive thru convertor lockup so it is not a feasable thing to do Plus i never have time to do a MPG check with purpose .  I just get no,s from normal traveling . But overall it is not worth the cost or effort ! My only reccomendation is if you want to update you have to go up to Port injection , also an Allison 6 speed might help Frank

The 6 speed would hurt more than help unless you put lower gears in the rear. You need to keep the engine in the power band or you will start to bog it down and that is worse than overspeeding it. Once the rpm gets below about 2500 rpm with a heavy load you are going to lose mileage.

That's what I'm thinking too.  Without driving it around in 3rd gear as if overdrive didn't exist there's no way to know the difference the  EFI made, if any.  Even though the wrong shifter is being used, can't you just back off one click on the shifter?  Running in 3 or D  is common when towing with a truck that has OD.  Just one click down on the shifter and the motor should be doing ~3000 rpm at 60mph, right in the heart of the torque curve.