So. MY wife and I were homeless last. Month. We saved what we could and baught a trashed 1984 winebago minowini 20 ft class c built on. A chevy g30 chassis. She runs kinda OK. There's a lot of work to do. Someone before us took a sawsall and chopped out the sink/oven left the. Lp lines and water lines Un. Capped the genset 3.0 muffler is falling off and. I'm struggling with EMMISSIONS in Denver Co. Mainly just introducing myself as I'm probably going to need a ton of advice... Wink wink smooches
:)ThmbUp All right finally a homeless person with some common cents. Get a roof over your heads. Get dry and warm so you can focus on your next move. Boy did you come to the right place. You'll find everything from frugal and thrifty to crazy excessive here. I'm betting there's a hole lot of folks here willing to guide you with frugal and thrifty in mind. Willing to coach you on how to repair stuff on your own and were to scroung stuff. There's not a lot on your rig that you can't fix yourself. Just take your time and be patient. What part of the country are you living in. Welcome aboard. Oh! P.S. Understand one thing. The only dumb question here is the one you don't ask. ;)
Uh, TJ, They said they are struggling with emission here in Denver Co. so I think it would be a good guess that they are in Denver? W% :)rotflmao
Welcome to the nuthouse and we will do all we can to try to improve your situation. What is your skill set as far as doing the work needed on both the vehicle and the RV? The original mufflers for those old Onan generators are hard to find and expensive when you do find them so you might want to improvise there. I have a stove and oven unit I would give you but I am in NJ so that is kind of moot point. I would cut the liner off clean and cap it so you can use things like the hot water heater and furnace. You can substitute a Coleman camp stove for the original, I used one of them for a year in a rental house that did not have a stove in it.
As Rick said, the original mufflers for generators are expensive, but there are other options. I used a garden tractor muffler for our genny, and I have read of people using motorcycle mufflers. I can imagine there is a pile of original equipment Harley Davidson mufflers somewhere.
Not homeless any more! Congrats!
Even if you have to keep all the emissions stuff in place to meet your state's requirements you should be able to get that running well with pretty straightforward work, mostly elbow work.
Making sure you have clean fuel is a critical first step. No engine will run well with contaminated fuel.
A simple tune up of the engine; air filter, plugs, cap rotor, wires will usually go a long way.
And the inexpensive but time consuming process of looking at every thing that makes the engine run well that might not be working so well after years of neglect. Things like, is the mechanical advance on the distributor working freely? You can fix a lot with just a little patience, puttering, wiggling and oiling, cleaning and reassembling.
D:oH! DUH! Didn't say I was the brightest bulb in the pack or the sharpest knife in the drawer. Alice I might not be the guy to take opinions from. ???
Being a Chevy it is going to have A.I.R pumps, or at least one pump and they have a habit of seizing up so be sure that is working since that will go a long ways towards geting you through emissions. Also check the hoses that go down to the vapor canister usually mounted down low on the passenger side of the radiator support. Make sure they are all connected and in good shape. Usually there is a vacuum diagram on the side of the air cleaner for the emissions lines to show their routing.
If you title it in South Dakota, can't you bypass the emissions tests?
Good luck and welcome to the best vintage RV site on the planet!
Kev
I posted Two times. Tried to include the pics of inside. The Pic was to big and. It blew my entire post. I wrote it by hand on a cell phone twice in the dark. After an hour and a half I got a little tried and went to bed.
I badly need a smog pump and quadrajet r4-m4mc. CaN anyone suggest a parts yard that might have parts. For this ol gurl?
Ps I'll try to stay on replies better
On. Side note thank all of you for the tips and welcoming. I'm all stressed out over EMMISSIONS but I saw an inspector Monday said he would pass me if I got the. Smog pump back running and got the. Smoke to stop pretty sure a carb rebuild would help the gassy smelling smoke
In any case you guys rock!!! Be back later. Think I'll spend. Today hunting old parts
Skill set wise my family business was roofing and construction till I was around 21. Went to college for CO. Puter science. I've done 12v cable installation and some trouble shooting. I
Thinking cabinets etc will be. Much like drywall and insulation just use. Lighter. Materials like thin paneling and small screws. I hate staples. The lp lines I'm going to treat like brake lines.. Put on fittings and flare them. Then seal with plummets tape. I don't like the. Idea of permanently soldering caps in. FIRE BAD!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on December 01, 2019, 08:41 AM
Uh, TJ, They said they are struggling with emission here in Denver Co. so I think it would be a good guess that they are in Denver? W% :)rotflmao
Welcome to the nuthouse and we will do all we can to try to improve your situation. What is your skill set as far as doing the work needed on both the vehicle and the RV? The original mufflers for those old Onan generators are hard to find and expensive when you do find them so you might want to improvise there. I have a stove and oven unit I would give you but I am in NJ so that is kind of moot point. I would cut the liner off clean and cap it so you can use things like the hot water heater and furnace. You can substitute a Coleman camp stove for the original, I used one of them for a year in a rental house that did not have a stove in it.
Ah, you fell for the old 'make a great big post, spend a bunch of time on it, and lose the whole thing b/c it timed out or the picture was too big' trick. That one never gets old on this forum. My favorite is when the font gets real small for no apparent reason.
So the way I get around that if I'm going to add a pictuer is. After writing I highlight the letter. Past it to Note Pad. Then I send the letter and the photo. If it gets rejected and comes back wiped out. I go over to the note pad, highlight it, copy it, then go back to the site and past it in the box. BUT I DON'T include the pictuers this time when I send it. After that I just try to send the pics on their own. Hm?
Is the smoke black? If so it might just be the engine is running to rich? Hm?
You say it smells gasy? Is it missing on one cylinder? Before you get too deep into the emissions stuff make sure the engine is mechanically sound. I would normally recommend a leakdown test but I am going to assume that you are not in a position to be buying tools or test equipment even if it is cheap. If you want to send me a phone number by PM I may be able to help you out a little better by going over some things in real time instead of bouncing back and forth on here. The propane lines need to be single flared to 45 degrees and no tape. As for where the stove was you can flare the line and install a valve so that you can just add a section of line later on and have a shut off valve for the stove. Or you can flare it and get a block off plug that goes on there in place of any other connection.
I found a via le core M4mc carb and a. Rebuild kit for. It. Won't be here till the 21st. Need an electric choke converter gaskets and a bucket of carb cleaner. The. Smoke is blue but it hits. On all cylinders I am considering an intake manifold and exhaust manifolds or at least a new gasket on each side. But I'm. Thinking to run a. Few cans of seafoam through the oil tyranny and fuel to see if I can get some of the crud out. She. Runs real nice and hauls balls. And stops on a. Dime. I think it's more of an engine that sat for 5 years thing and. Just needs tlc
Quote from: AliceKelly on December 04, 2019, 05:25 PM
I found a via le core M4mc carb and a. Rebuild kit for. It. Won't be here till the 21st. Need an electric choke converter gaskets and a bucket of carb cleaner. The. Smoke is blue but it hits. On all cylinders I am considering an intake manifold and exhaust manifolds or at least a new gasket on each side. But I'm. Thinking to run a. Few cans of seafoam through the oil tyranny and fuel to see if I can get some of the crud out. She. Runs real nice and hauls balls. And stops on a. Dime. I think it's more of an engine that sat for 5 years thing and. Just needs tlc
How old is the gas? If it has also been sitting for 5 years, that might be a part of your problem...even if the old gas is mixed in with new gas that you added to the tank.
Kev
If the gas is five years old that is a real problem because that was ethanol gas and that can explain a lot about things like bad fuel pump and probably degraded lines and the smoke although blue smoke is oil and Chevies are famous for bad valve seals. Adding new gas to the old or Seafoam to the old will not helop, you need to drop the tank and get that old gas out of there. Ifyou have an electric pump then hotwire it to run all the time and run the tank dry into cans and dispose of it. I would not go spending a lot of money on intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Believe me you do NOT want to try to get those exhaust manifolds off! Do the valve covers have the bolts around the edge or through the top? That will tell me if it is a Vortec engine or not, I think it is too old and if it is too old then the chances of an intake manifold leak are slim. NOW, if you are talking about an oil leak on the sides over the exhaust that is Valve cover gaskets.
That's not very good news. When I got her she only had a gallon to get me to the station. Since then I've run 2 full tanks through her. So if the. Smoke won't stop with a new carb and seafoam she needs more serious work
Ok, That's a different story. If you know it only had a very little in it and you have since run two full tanks through it then don't worry about bad gas. Todays gas with ethanol in it is very aggressive at cleaning. which means stock up on fuel filters because you will probably need to change it every couple tanks of gas for a little while until all the gunk is cleaned out. If the smoke is blue and I am going to bet it smells like oil I will say you need valve seals.
Ya I watched a couple videos on valve seals. I've done head gaskets and the seals are easy and cheap but taking all the crap down to get the heads of is a other story. I'm almost thinking wounder about what the cost would be if I baught complete heads and gaskets and paid someone else to just drop new heads on. Another suggestion I got was run thicker oil and add oil sealer n hope it's enough to pass. Admittedly the oil is sooper old now. At least 5 year old oil. Hadn't gotten to changing it or flushing the tyranny yet.... Should I at least change. Oil before ripping her guts apart?
You don't have to pull the heads to do the valve seals. You can do it with air pressure and the right tools or you can cheat with clothesline and a cheap valve spring compressor. How many miles are on this?
19000 surprisingly. I saw something saying to try sooper thick oil. Plus this oil is at least 5 years old. Possibly a lot more.
I'm thi king every tube. Every seal. Every rubber part is dried out and messed up.
I will agree on all of the rubber parts but oil does not go bad like gas from age. What could happen is you could get water in the crankcase from condensation in that climate. If the oil was not milky after running then you don't have water in it. An oil change is always a good idea on any used vehicle though. All rubber should be replaced, hoses, gas lines, belts, tires. with that mileage the engine should be in good shape mechanically so stop thinking of taking it all apart. Clean oil, new plugs and wires and a new PCV valve. With that mileage the air cleaner is probably not even dirty but I would replace it, they may have gone to Burning Man!!!! Can you say dust on steroids!!! :)rotflmao If the valve covers have to come off be sure to check the drain back holes for gunk but I doubt it with that low mileage.
Check your plugs and see which one is burning oil. Maybe it's just one or two. Change those valve stem seals and run it some more.
Oil's cheap. Try Dave's suggestion of changing the valve stem seal / umbrella(?) in place on the head with the air pressure holding the valves closed while you work on them.
I looked for an emissions waiver for you, can't believe they require emissions on a vehicle that old, but they do. You can get a waiver for a few things such as economic hardship but not if there is visible smoke from the tailpipe, which if you are burning oil, you won't be able to get that exemption.
But there are a lot of counties that don't require emissions in CO. If you are homeless, how do you document your address? Could you open a PO box in a county that has no emissions requirement?
Then you could deal with the oil burning as you could manage, or don't. Oil is cheap, and if you are in financial trouble you're not going to be driving it anywhere anyway b/c that cost a bunch of money in fuel. You're just going to park it and live in it, maybe drive a few miles now and then I imagine you won't be polluting anything.
You hit the nail. The air filter is perly white. And the plug wires cap n rotor look similar. But all the vacuum lines going to and. From the carb look dry and cracked. Use there's a. Mouse nest on the intake choke side. I should start by sealing up all the vacuum leaks. Get myself a mile long spool of vacuum tubing
Thinking about this, could it be the modulator valve on the transmission? If they start leaking, there will be transmission fluid being sucked up into the intake. That creates a lot of smoke out of the tailpipe.
Yeah it could be tranny fluid, that's another option. It would show up in that vacuum line, right? Easy to check to see.
If it is engine oil, first thing would be to change the oil and get something a little less likely to end up past the rings and valves. I like Rotella diesel engine oil, 15w-40 I think it is. If someone put 10w-30 synthetic in it, that would be more prone to getting burned by the engine.
Completely forgot the modulator! I have seen that happen before. At the back center top of the intake manifold there will be a metal vacuum line coming up from the transmission usually to a red rubber connector but not always red. Pull that off and see if there is oil in it. If there is or if you can't see go under the vehicle and towards the back on the side of the transmission you will see the metal tube with another rubber tube connecting it to the transmission. Pull that one off and if it has been sucking oil up there then it will run out of the tube.
Yes I like all these suggestions. I'll check modulator. Change to thicker oil. I'll check and or change the fuel pump just in case it's. Leaking. For tomorrow. IL going to empty my poop for. The first time. At the flying j. Yay! See yall tomorrow. And thank you all for the great advice. Smooches
Also is the transmission fluid level low?
Just a quick update. Starting the quadrajet rebuild tomorrow and going after the exhaust on the onan genset 3.0. Wish me. Luck. Will keep you updated
On that quadrajet, make sure the welch plugs under the main jets have been sealed with JB Weld or epoxy. That was an area of concern with these carbs since they tended to leak at those plugs and drain the bowl when sitting. If you have to seal them just be careful that you do not put so much on that the baseplate will not fit back on. Do a couple test fits and look it over before gooping them up.
Everything went nuts today. Just as I woke up I got a notice that a lady on Craig's list I had offered 150 to for her 3650 watt genny had finally accepted my offer. My mouth hit the floor. It's digital and has runtime memory. 90 total hours run time. Almost pooped myself trying to drive across half the State to get it before she changed her mind. Came with a cover tools extra fuel cap and extra filter and a weather cover and a cargo carrier. Got it home put cargo carrier on and much to. My disappointment the bumper sagged so bad it looks like the whole thing is going to fail off. Yay another thing to fix. OK so some. Mild welding isn't a huge job. But then my favorite inverter blew out... ( not the one built in). The genny runs great charged the crappy batteries in about an hour. Makes me think I need some deep cycle marine batteries and maybe get 2 more to run in series.
Still a big day over all. I have tie downs. Holding the carrier up and lashed to the ladder and spare tire. Don't think it's a good idea to rely on those two places for long.
Haven't started the carb yet. Every time I get a suggestion it seems like 10 more pop up and bite me in the butt.
Oh ya I got some. Carpet to lay on my cold bare plywood foot too. Think I'll wait to tack it down until I'm done with the carb which seems to be a couple days untill I finish. I got a bucket of carb cleaner and am going to soak it for a day before reassembly.
Stupid question : does one ever get caught up restoring these old girls or do you always play catch up finding new stuff to fix every time you move? Love ya all. Thanks for that carb tip Mr. Fox! I have a real bad history with jb weld. Will epoxy work?
Epoxy will work, but JB Weld is nothing more than epoxy with a fancy name. Caught up?! Yea right. The only ones that ever get caught up are the millionaires that can afford to pay a restorer to do the job for them or someone who has a very large garage and a ton of resources to work with, including time.
:D Well if they do. Once they do they don't hang around here long. Shoot no matter how perfect we get them there's always something to tinker with. You WILL get all the major stuff fixed but there will always be some thing you'll want to do a little different or better. :)ThmbUp
Still didn't get to the damn carb lol. Sometimes wish the world would die for one day so I could get things done... Smooches
Do not tackle that carb until you have a full day to do it. That is one of the tougher carbs to do as far as the sheer number of small parts so you don't want to rust the job and forget something.
Couldn't sleep last night at all so got in the upper bunk and slowly tore the carb down and threw all the little pieces in the can of choke cleaner to soak clean. While it's. Snowing tomorrow I'll gently clean the surfaces of the three plates get everything ready and clean.
It was surprisingly clean everywhere except the. Float bowl. Hoping it cleans up with choke cleaner. It's really important it not flood lol
Love yall. Be. In touch. Wish me. Luck
It is not the visible surfaces that are the problem. It is the passages that get clogged with varnish and gunk. You will need to be sure you pull out the idle mixture screws, but before you do run then until they stop very gently counting the number of turns. This will be your baseline setting for reassembly. If you already took them out without counting.............. well throw it out. :D :P Just kidding, you can set them at two turns and that will get you running and you will have to adjust them from there. You will need to blow carb cleaner through every passage in the carb that you can find and I strongly suggest you do that outside! Once the carb comes out of the bucket you can spray it down with the carb cleaner spray to get rid of the stuff from the bucket. If you have access to a compressor then you can rinse it with a hose and blow it dry with air and that way you save the carb cleaner spray for the passages.
Just a note, For all persons useing professional Carburetor cleaner DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS INTO THE BUCKET OF CLEANER ! It is a grease and oil remover and will pull the natural oils out of your skin instantly ! ( talking from experience ) A part fell out of the basket ! opps :( Bad decision ! Choke cleaner will also damage hands but no where near Carb Cleaner !Frank
Your talking about the old Chemtrol stuff Frank. :D Yup, that stuff would clean a carb in about ten minutes and take your skin off in one. You can't get that formula anymore. You can't get any of the good stuff anymore. N:( The stuff they make nowadays is the same part number but it is water based instead of lye based. But stil, it will do a number on your skin and it is also absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream so get some of the thicker nitrile gloves from Harbor freight. Do NOT use the latex ones, they will not hold up to the cleaner in the bucket and will disintegrate with the carb spray.
I'm taking time with a soft toothbrush hitting anything that isn't shiny yet. Been letting it soak. The float valve assembly has me a bit worried. It was oxidized with white rust I figure most of it will dissappear in a day or two lol.
On a side note I've looked all over for parts to my chassis. Is there any way to find crossover parts to an 84 g30?
The G series is the same as the vans so you should not have any problem finding parts. Just look for 3/4 ton van. I have it pulled up here in Rock auto for you.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1984,g30,5.7l+350cid+v8,1047811 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1984,g30,5.7l+350cid+v8,1047811)
I think I found what I needed. You see I need a smog pump but a new one is about 150 with shipping. I know there must be an auto yard where I can find that pump as I'm sure chevy threw one on about all 350s in that Era. I just didn't know what other. Makes had the same pump. So I searched the manufacturers numbers from rock auto on gm parts direct and looked under. More to see the years and models. Now maybe I can find my parts in other trucks etc. Aperently all k class blazers that year all c10-30 1500-3500 and of course g10-30... Thank you rick
You will probably find that most of the cars with V8's all used the same pump also.
I did the rebuild on carb and it ran however I didn't get a chance to let her warm up at all. She had a tiny fuel leak where the line connects to carb. I'll just replace it tomorrow and give it another try.
I double checked the oil and tyranny fluids for gassy smell. Surprisingly the trans fluid was bright purple like brand new. She doesn't leak a drop. The oil was oil and it didn't smell bad either.. And I don't have a vacuum trans kick down. Mine is operated by a cable mounted next to the accelerator on the carb.
So I'm moving on to oil and electric choke smog pump Then valve seals. I don't see any of the above as. Much problem. It's just a matter of time till I hit whatever is making it smoke. I should also note that the smoke in my opinion is very light. So when I do the. Oil I'm going to try using 15w-30 and. Miracle oil or Lucas oil additive. I will likely have all this done before 1/1/2020. Wish me. Luck.
Don't put two additives in at the same time, you have no idea if they will play well together and if they don't it could be real expensive! Remember, oil right out of the can has a whole package of additives already in it. And if the transmission oil is purple that means someone went to the expense of filling it with Royal Purple synthetic, pretty expensive stuff! That would tell me that whomever owned it planned on keeping it alive for a long time and I would bet that the engine oil is probably also synthetic. You can use whatever oil in the engine you like but I strongly suggest Rotella 15W-40 due to it's higher zinc properties to try to keep the cam and lifters alive. regular motor oils have eliminated zinc since it is hard on catalytic converters but it is necessary for sliding metal parts like old style tappets and cams.
I meant I would use miracle oil first if I could find it and use Lucas if I couldn't. Me don't mix things. Lol fire bad! Thank you once again for the Rotella tip. I'll chance the ruel tube today. Then off to date night with my wife. Woot star wars movie.
I have another dumb question. Is there much difference in changing winnebago dually tires from. A. Car? I imagine I'll need a 1/2 impact and jack stands and a jack. It's keeping me up at night imagining doi g one. I don't have a jack or anything. I'm thinking I want one of those old jeep bumper Jack's. The. Giant ones that go click click. You see them on the back of jeeps all the time. And a long bar to jack it.. Feel free to tell me what I'll need for a safe change. (besides a hard surface) I'm afraid of those bottle Jack's. Their just so unstable. Or do you jack the whole side of the Fram up?..... Never done a dually
You need a jack that goes under the axle or front control arm. That is too heavy of a vehicle to try to jack up by the bumper. You will need to use a bottle jack or a screw jack. They are the same thing but different in operation. If you block the opposite end tires front and back of the tire then it cannot roll off the jack and you are only jacking up one side so the other side on the ground will keep it from going sideways. You don't have to go a mile in the air, just enough to get the tire off. A jackstand is also a good thing to have for safety to put under there in addition to the jack once it is in the air. As far as the lug nuts, you don't really need an impact wrench, a large breaker bar and a socket and extension will work just as well. And they do not need batteries or air.
I picked up the 20 ton bottle jack from The Hammer Store (Harbor Freight) specifically for doing chassis work on the RV. Normal price is about $30 but I think you can use their 25% off coupon on those since it's not a "floor jack". That coupon is good through tomorrow. You could make the argument that because you're just changing a tire and not really getting under the RV that a jackstand isn't necessary, but I'm not a fan of that argument. For that, I picked up the 12-ton jack stands. I figure that the Hammer Store's 12 tons is about equivalent to about 6 US tons, so they're probably pretty safe. They are intensely heavy, though.
I found with the bottle jack that it needed to be cribbed up quite a bit in order to lift my coach past its suspension travel to get the wheel all the way off the ground. I carry around several stacks of 1x6 boards that I cut into 10" lengths for putting under my leveling jacks so I stack those under the frame rail of the coach until the bottle jack fits with as little clearance as possible and then start lifting.
You might consider this too dangerous, but I have also used the leveling jacks to get the wheels off the ground before. Again, a couple bits of the 1x6 under the jack pad and it was able to lift the coach just enough to get the tire off the pavement. I've heard that using the leveling jacks in that way is dangerous, so make the risk/reward calculation on your own and be prepared to live with your decision.
It's all very much just like regular car parts. There isn't that much difference between what you have on the motorhome versus a car. A G30 chassis is just a regular pickup truck chassis design at its base (modified to fit a van box) and many of the parts interchange with consumer-grade trucks. My P30 chassis shares parts with the C/K2500 and 3500 and probably your chassis as well. Plus, this truck design didn't change all that much for a couple decades so they don't really do anything fancy anywhere, just very basic stuff. Here's where it gets different, though: It's freaking heavy. Everything is so much heavier than your normal automotive part and it will really exhaust you. I'm 44 years old and in good physical condition with no joint or muscle problems but when it's time to hang the wheel back on the studs, I am just spent! If you can fit a decent electric impact into your budget, I'd recommend it - I can't imagine how tired I'd be if I had to turn all those fasteners myself!
Thanks guys. City came through few days ago with new signs saying no parking over 7000 pounds. Looked at my title and we're only 5000. But that brings me to the point. I baught 3 ton jack stands. I hope they hold if I need them. It's kind of amazing how quickly 20 feet of space gets filled. I was hoping to go with pneumatic tools some day. Maybe someday I will figure out some clever way to his a compressor
Haven't done anything yet. Just posting to say I'll get back to it after xmass. Merry Christmas everyone. See you in a few days
Have a great Christmas. :)ThmbUp
Merry Christmas tj merry Christmas Mr Fox. Merry Christmas to all
Nothing has happened. It's. To. Cold to even pop the bonnet. Prolly a few. More days
So I ha E a whole new problem. I rebuilt the quadrajet and it seems OK. All the vacuum lines are tight connected or blocked. If I cover the Choke or cover it she dies so I'm sure it's not a vacuum leak. I've had to set the idle a little higher than I like and adjusted the idle air flows.
When I screwed them in tight I didn't hear the engine change rpm or anything. I actually removed one while running and it barely started running bad. Screwed it back in and. It's same idle in all positions.
Any thoughts?
You had to set the idle higher than you like? What was it doing at idle? Running rich or lean? It sounds to me like one of the separator gaskets is not sealed. If it was running rich and you increased the idle speed then now you are getting out of the idle circuit and the mixture screws are not going to work. You didn't over tighten the four hold down bolts did you? That can warp or even crack the housing. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with a Qjet rebuild and it is pretty hard to pin it down without being there to actually see it.
I found that almost all the bolts were loosened a bit and tightened a. Little but nowhere close to over tight. I used a 1/4 ratchet to make sure I wasn't over tightening but I'll have a look
Ps it was running a tiny bit lean. If I give it about 1/3 choke it idles almost perfect
You need to back out the mixture screws just a hair. You need to do it evenly though. Back one out until it idles better but no more than a half turn and then go to the other one and do the same thing. Once you get a good idle you will need to run the screws in until it just starts to drop off a tiny bit. This will be where you need to be for an emissions test. Once you get your sticker you can back the screws out for the smooth idle. Or you can leave them as is, it will not affect performance. The hold down bolts need to be tight but not real tight, Kind of hard for a lifetime mechanic to explain. Hm? I just know the feel.
Checked all the bolts and screws. None were tighter or looser than a couple pounds over finger tight
Here's something though. When in gear she idles. Perfect. Took her to flying j / pilot to dump black tank and was seriously impressed. Her fuel usage went down by a ton. Went about 15 miles used less than 1/8 of a tank. (last time with old carb she took a full quarter of a tank) I'm reasonably pleased with the results.
When setting the idle screws I went all the way in and turned them 3 full screws out. I adjusted the fast idle up... Now thinking to back the fast idle screw off a tiny bit. Still I'm really happy and she doesn't smoke at all... Especially when she is nice a d warm.
Haven't changed the. Oil yet looking forward to putting in a quart of miracle. Still she doesn't make any internal noises Knocks or pings. Jumps to 55 without having to push her at all. ( I'm assuming her favorite speed is 55 due to age).
I'm going to go try a test on 1/8/20 to see where she scores on emissions test. She. Might just pass if I warm her up good first. If not I have several options and I'll know what needs to be done from the readout she gets back. I'm thinking she will pass though and. I might not need the smog pump cause I'm not asking for the waiver yet. If she fails terribly ill put a. Pump on. If it's a. Little ill change. Oil
Either way I'm pretty pleased with her.
For sure change the oil and filter and air filter before you go for your emissions test.
the fact that you can turn the screws all the way in without it stalling is a problem. Unless you have the idle WAY up. At a 550-650 idle it should stumble at about 1 1/2 out and stall before you get all the way in. You need to be sure you don't turn them in tight, just snug but that would not cause this issue. You are getting gas into the idle circuit somehow past the mixture screws. Back them out 3 turns and then turn the idle speed way down and then try turning them in a little at a time on each one and see what happens.
On it senor Rick 😁
Sorry I been out. Tomorrow is supposed to be a descent temperature so I'm going to pull the carb and reset all the screws and check all my seals.
When I'm done I'm thinking I want to put some bolts into the. Front of my frozen air pump and try turning it backwards with a ton of wd-40 and see if I can t free it up.
As for the carb I been driving around with it in it present state a couple weeks. It seems to run well and still no smoke. Even less after she runs a while. My only concern is idle speed when not in gear and mpg. The fuel consumption went way down after rebuilding the quadrajet but I'm thinking I used around 7 gallons for 18 miles.
I could be wrong but I think that's still a little high. The other thing is she idles on like 1 second after turning off and she backfired one time. After I'm sure the cab isn't the problem any more I'm thinking point plugs and timing
Any pointers you might have about freeing the smog pump will be hugely welcome
Smooches
Those smog pumps are problematic from the start, if your's is locked up I don't believe you'll be able to get it freed up and working reliably. Try Amazon or RockAuto for a replacement.
Hi the usual reason for Run on is idle to high ! Timing to high can cause higher idle. And it is impossible to use that much fuel in that many miles without a leak Frank
In a Minnie you should get at least 10 MPG unless you have a real heavy right foot. You should not be taking the carb off to make adjustments? They have to made on the vehicle with it running. Idle speed is a simple screw adjustment on the side of the carb. You cannot set the mixture screws with it at high idle. did you check to see if the secondary plate was closed all the way when you rebuilt it?
Aknowledged. Working
On a side note I baught 5 year classic liscense plates today. Woot 5 years no emissions!!! Thank you all for the great advice
:)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
:)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)clap Well done