Took out the instrument cluster because the fuel, oil pressure, eng temp do not activate and the voltage gauge only moves a little bit and not to full charge. New alternator and batteries.
On the back of the cluster is a plastic circuit board that has some broken copper circuits. I checked the voltage coming into the plug and get 23 volts on two and 11 volts on one other line. All of the others I get no voltage in. Checked the fuse and it's ok. Where can I get a new instrument cluster or even just a new plastic circuit board that's attached to the cluster or panel if you will.
Thanks
Mickey7
Pictures help. We love pictures.
And welcome to the nut house. I'm normal, but watch everyone else.......
"I'm normal"
And if you don't believe him, check his avatar!
Make sure you have a good clean tight connection on all the contact points on the circuit board.
Is this what you had in mind? Hm?
http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/winnebag.htm
OK I can't figure out how to add a picture but it is labeled P30oldw.jpg on the above picture you posted. On the back of that cluster is a plastic circuit board that is breaking up due to age and is not allowing the signal to get to the gauges. I searched the internet and can't find anything. There are two sets of numbers stamped on the back of the circuit board (6248 & 6375). There is another number on the side of the Cluster (UPP 25083880) I went to the local RV repair place in Chula Vista and gave the guy all these numbers and the VIN and he hasn't responded with any information.
If I could find a salvage yard that would have a replacement (that worked) that would be cool.
Mike (Mickey 7)
You need to find out where the 24 volts is coming from. There should not be that voltage anywhere in the motor home. The only way to get it would be to run two batteries in series instead of parallel. You may want to check all of your battery wiring. The fact that you are getting 23 and 11 volts supports that even more since one battery with 11 volts in a series setup would give you 23 volts. Or two low 12 volt batteries.
Mike:
When you are typing a message in the text box, just below the box is attachments and other options. Click on that.
You might want to check this place in Centralia Wa. Reviewed by "The Nomadic Fanatic" He has a LOT of videos on YouTube of his full time adventures.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW7Walg1slE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW7Walg1slE)
might find something here. https://www.millsupply.com/stepvan-parts/electrical-2/dashboard-gauges/ (https://www.millsupply.com/stepvan-parts/electrical-2/dashboard-gauges/)
Thanks Rick, I found the part I needed and ordered it and it's on it's way. Thank you very much...
Mike
Be sure to let us know if it solves your problem, what the part number is, and where you got it from in case someone else runs into this issue.
;)
OK I received the part in the mail today from Mill Supply ($50). I installed it and the instrument panel lights work, parking brake light works, Alternator light kinda works (could be a bad gauge). Fuel still doesn't work but I'm still glad I bought the part though because the old one was shorted out and broken. Part number was 25 184106. Thanks for the heads up on Mill Supply. I'm thinking the fuel might need a new sending unit. I'm gonna check out You Tube videos to see if there is a way to check to see if it's bad or good. Someone mentioned it could be a bad ground but I don't have a clue about how to check for that.
Thanks again
Mike
You are going to have to get access to the top of the gas tank where the sender is to check either the ground or the sender unfortunately.
I'm working on Fuel pump and sender myself. The fuel pump and sender share the same ground, So if the fuel pump is working the ground should be good. The sending unit plugs into a flat 3 prong connector that should be accessible without lowering the tank. On my particular unit the plug is near the drivers side rear corner of the tank. The 3 wires on the sending unit are colored Gray, Purple, and Black, Gray is power to the fuel pump, Purple (the middle wire) is to the fuel level sender, Black is ground. You can check to see if the fuel gauge itself is working by unplugging the connector and then shorting the Purple and Black wires momentarily on the gauge/chassis side of the plug ( you will need a second person to see if the gauge moves.
His gauge is already pinned so I think he might find a short in the wire between the front and back. The early ones are a bit different since they do not need the pump to run for the injection but it sounds like the wires are the same. Does your fuel pump run through a oil pressure safety switch?
Quote from: Rickf1985 on October 21, 2017, 05:56 PM
His gauge is already pinned so I think he might find a short in the wire between the front and back. The early ones are a bit different since they do not need the pump to run for the injection but it sounds like the wires are the same. Does your fuel pump run through a oil pressure safety switch?
Ah, I missed the part about his gauge being pinned. The sending units are (supposedly) the same from about 1985 through mid-90's. I don't believe mine is hooked into the oil pressure safety switch.