This is more of a seed than anything to help out others.
Drove motorhome 100 miles home after purchase, tried starting a few days later and poured gas on the ground. Replaced hose at filter and electric fuel pump on rail behind battery box (not stock pump). Tried to start, blew another hose, and replaced all hoses in that area. No fuel to carb. Discovered stock pump in tank dead, Bit large caliber bullet and decided to replace tank pump and all hoses (imagine trying to change a partially full hot water tank laying sideways in your houses crawl space). Now I'm going to have gas! Not. On to the fuel pump relay (yes I did check the pump operation prior to re-loading the tank) :) This relay is prone to failure and not available. Checked power in on 5 second delay cranking circuit... good, checked power in from oil pressure switch for run latch... good. Neither sent anything out the fuel pump leg. Jumper power to area of relay that would send power to the fuel pump.. nothing out Huh? Decided to open relay...
You can see that the circuit trace AND solder blew like a fuse likely from the load of the frozen pump. Way to go GM, no fuse on the pump?
Nice find and fix!
Thanks, too bad so many went into the garbage. I read my self half blind on why the fuel pump would not work, and so many people due to lack of availability rewired for something like a 4 prong headlight relay and a momentary switch to prime. This necessitated cutting off the original 5 pin straight plug. A lot of work.
I'm toying with putting in an inline fuse on the pump line, would rather replace a fuse than a relay. I would like to see someone else open up a failed one to see if this was the problem that caused the part to have a high failure rate. Since they are all machine made, it could be. It was not the failure of a component on the circuit board but the copper trace and solder.
I have a 86 winnie c30 chieftain. I suspect the fuel relay switch is bad, but for the life of me I cannot find the sucker. Any suggestions where I should look?
Thank you!
Actually I just found it, now to remove and find a replacement. I read where this part is discontinued, any help on a suitable replacement is greatly appreciated! :)ThmbUp
You can replace with a standard 109 relay but lose the prime feature and no start shutoff feature. Or contact these folks and have your original repaired (they repaired my wiper module) http://www.fsip.biz/
Bill
Quote from: Robear on September 23, 2016, 09:48 PM
I have a 86 winnie c30 chieftain. I suspect the fuel relay switch is bad, but for the life of me I cannot find the sucker. Any suggestions where I should look?
Thank you!
Actually I just found it, now to remove and find a replacement. I read where this part is discontinued, any help on a suitable replacement is greatly appreciated! :)ThmbUp
If you are going to throw that one out can you mail it to me? I will pay the shipping. I am curious to see if it is a common failure as CapnDirk found.
If it is then maybe I can get into the repair business myself just to help others out.
And if anyone else has a failed relay they are just sitting on let me know.
I'm going to pull a hose and check for fuel flowing before I take it out. If I decide to throw it away, I'll mail it to you!
Quote from: EldoradoBill on September 24, 2016, 09:08 AM
You can replace with a standard 109 relay but lose the prime feature and no start shutoff feature. Or contact these folks and have your original repaired (they repaired my wiper module) http://www.fsip.biz/ (http://www.fsip.biz/)
Bill
When I look up the 109 online,It says its a VW Relay switch. Will this work? Thanks!
Standard products RY109 my fingers type faster than my brain lol
Quote from: Rickf1985 on September 24, 2016, 10:24 AM
If you are going to throw that one out can you mail it to me? I will pay the shipping. I am curious to see if it is a common failure as CapnDirk found.
If it is then maybe I can get into the repair business myself just to help others out.
And if anyone else has a failed relay they are just sitting on let me know.
I am an electrical engineer who designs circuit boards. I would be interested in reverse engineering the circuit. Might not be hard to make a pin for pin replacement. Maybe I could intercept the package before sending it on to Rick.
We need a CWVRV drone for intra-member package transfer!
Great idea!
Even better if it could legally cross the 49th parallel.
Both ways. :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp :)ThmbUp
Man, I like where this is going.
Robear: You might crack it open and take a look. It was made to have the cap snap off.
Oz: Great idea! we could lease it to the government when not in use for packages.
I pulled the fuel line along the frame and had the engine cranked. Fuel was flowing. I decided to change the mechanical fuel pump, and it runs much much better but still craps out when pulling a slight grade. I can't figure it out. Im ready to throw in the towel, sell it and wait 10 years, retire, and buy a Pickup truck and Tow Trailer! :(
Have you changed the filter halfway up the line from the rear?
Robear:
The only other restriction, failure point would be the sock filter at the bottom of the tank, and/or the small filter in the carb at where the fuel line enters.
I had one starving for fuel on hills that turned out to be the rubber line that goes from the steel line to the mechanicle fuel pump was curved to sharply and was almost pinched off...it got worse when hot due to the rubber softening some.
Quote from: kansascat on October 22, 2016, 09:56 AM
I had one starving for fuel on hills that turned out to be the rubber line that goes from the steel line to the mechanicle fuel pump was curved to sharply and was almost pinched off...it got worse when hot due to the rubber softening some.
Interesting....
Where is this relay located? I've found a parts Windcruiser, and I might as well pull it off to have a spare in case.
Usually inside the dogbox on the drivers side.
If you put your foot on the gas pedal and rotate it right so it connects to the sheet metal, you are just about touching the screws that hod it to the inside of the engine doghouse.
I you find a usable relay (or not usable) SAVE IT! Others here are interested. Assuming the same part number.
You can also rewire it to a regular relay like I did. You lose the safety shutoff feature that stops the fuel flow if the oil pressure drops (crash protection), but I was okay with that. Works great!
Kev
I found the thread where it describes in detail exactly what relay I used and how I wired it in to replace the obsolete relay...thanks to a lot of help from folks like Dave! Still working great and I haven't had ANY vapor lock or fuel delivery problems since. Sweet! http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,8795.0.html
Kev
How much are these relays going for? Is there much demand?
You can buy the 5 pin Bosch style relays on E-bay ten for 15.00 or so but I would buy original Bosch for about ten bucks each. You can get them anywhere. If you are talking about the original relay for the coach they are unobtainium.
Yes the original, like a NOS part.
No longer available. Nobody has been able to find a new one for a few years. A couple members in this thread seem to think they can be repaired, myself included.
Junk or salvage yards would be your only option but that would be coin toss if it worked or for how long.
Using a standard relay seems to not use the oil pressure switch shut off, safety feature. And the old socket has to be cut off and a new relay socket attached. Is that the gist of it?
Did anyone ever document pin for pin how they converted from 15528707 relay to RY109 or similar relay?
CDirk; do you have any more pictures of the insides of that relay?
I like relay logic circuits. I had an original three speed OD transmission in my 56 chevy sedan and designed a relay circuit to get the tranny to work just as original without having the factory control circuit and switches, which were expensive and difficult to find. When you floor it, the kickdown switch momentarily kills the spark to the engine, allowing the OD to disengage. One disengaged, the circuit fires up the engine again. It all happens in a split second, seamless.
Yes. The oil pressure safety cutoff is removed as well as the 2 second initial key on fuel prime.
Tmsnyder: I don't have anymore pics of the relay. There is a thread on another forum detailing the pinout of it. The oil pressure switch winds up being a latch circuit, and something in there holds power for about 4 seconds to prime the fuel pump even in the absence of oil pressure. So, key on (crank or not) 4 second prime, hit the gas pedal to engage choke and crank it. It will start even in the absence of oil pressure since it is a carb system.
My routine is to turn key on for 5 seconds, off, turn key on and crank. This fills the float bowl in case it evaporated.
An off the shelf relay with the same plug, and wiring the latch side through the oil pressure switch would be do able. getting the prime circuit would be the the effort part. Some here have just rigged a momentary switch on the dash, but a replacement circuit diagram would benefit many who are not comfortable with chopping up their wiring, and these relays are on every 85 1/2 to 89? chev chassis.
Edit: Found the post from Dave showing the circuit.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=8795.0 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=8795.0)
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,8795.0.html
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.novitatech.com%2F%3Fq%3Dsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fstyles%2Flarge%2Fpublic%2Fproducts%2Fimages%2FRL44-Diagram.jpg&hash=e97d24739fe2fd055621ae514b33ada1ba8decdc)
Skip to page 2 in the link above. This is the relay I used. Pretty straightforward, except instead of powering lights, it is powering the fuel pump. Most of the info you will need is on page 2, but feel free to skip to the beginning.
Kev
You can control the relay from the oil pressure safety switch by using the switch to trigger the relay. Another option is Arduino controls. I do not know much about them but I want to learn. You should be able to build a simple circuit to control the relays to get your precharge timeing, safety switch and automatic shut down all in a simple board.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino
https://www.arduino.cc/
https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-R3-Microcontroller-A000066/dp/B008GRTSV6
I kept it simple...and it works. Haven't had a single problem since.
As you should, driving to the shows is your livelihood. You don't get there you don't get paid! But just think, with those Arduino circuits you could build some really awesome catapults ;) :D :D !! Let's see, remote controlled, self loading, auto-fire Trebuchet. :)rotflmao If nothing else you could keep the dogs well exercised!
Quote from: Rickf1985 on December 17, 2016, 10:36 AM
As you should, driving to the shows is your livelihood. You don't get there you don't get paid! But just think, with those Arduino circuits you could build some really awesome catapults ;) :D :D !! Let's see, remote controlled, self loading, auto-fire Trebuchet. :)rotflmao If nothing else you could keep the dogs well exercised!
LMAO!!!
Kev
Another thing you COULD do is wire a relay to run off the oil pressure switch, and add a momentary switch to fire the relay when needed. That way you would have the safety cut off. You can fire the relay from two different sources without a problem.
Or just wire it up using the two different sources that are already there.
Opps, I posted this on the wrong thread (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,8795.msg80446.html#msg80446). That's what I get for being in a hurry
Primer switch, fuel pump run on start, oil pressure switch cutoff? You guys do realize you keep circiling this drain right?
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi687.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv240%2Fbarth_upload%2Ftech%2Frelay.png&hash=709fe515204bc903b4f23f97c92cbba201dfc9bb)
I THINK the new question was in regards to duplicating the original for a direct plugin replacement.
Yes it was
I have the dog house open now to work on the heater issue, I'll pop open the relay again and get some more picks. If I could get picks of both sides, and mirror the component side they could be overlayed and the circuit could be drawn out from that.
No worries, I got one.
An original one, or did you roll your own?
Found one that is NOS.
My solution...in glorious pictures.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p206x206/15590163_1512845795410336_808109648055698220_n.jpg?oh=f1bf3dc27c71111ff27ed51185557f57&oe=58E7D422)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15622042_1512845605410355_8018084720724095152_n.jpg?oh=a4c2b2cef7189704d1f24dca8417d89c&oe=58E04757)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15622729_1512845798743669_686452272684142840_n.jpg?oh=5fedf9f34f7715081795c2a08af16686&oe=58B2DCA9)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15492593_1512845878743661_5692859670292066801_n.jpg?oh=64bb938078875ece5a8fc016b85bf129&oe=58E08547)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15542321_1512845908743658_7349498530511242277_n.jpg?oh=dc8f7a600cb10eac85087d8fb5534e7d&oe=58F7528E)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15589596_1512845892076993_6312385482495304558_n.jpg?oh=71c2ef6c4d225c754d0da4721d13570b&oe=58E14656)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15542359_1512845625410353_5089021789977044510_n.jpg?oh=b1ccb4b65c8dc8bfd7b29ddf15d00691&oe=58E1590D)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15541343_1512845522077030_3897907922064096469_n.jpg?oh=002cbbc258a24f5882eec191f237af42&oe=58E91D9C)
White wire to fuel pump with inline fuse. Green wire to ground. Black wire to battery hot. Skinny little wire to ignition on, which causes the relay to open the fuel pump circuit when the key is turned on. Simple and elegant. Not sure what that other relay is up front...must do something...lol!
Kev
I used all 10 gauge wire, all the way back to the fuel pump. Overkill? Yep! But you don't know the struggles and sorrows I had with this system...so I used 10 gauge!!! Except the skinny little wire that energizes the relay when the key is in the on and start position.
Kev
The other relay should be the emissions relay for the pumps.
Our 1986 P30 rig has that "other" relay...I wondered what it was for. I figured it was for the dash AC or something i?? never would of thought smog
And we love pictures. Thanks Kevin.
Quote from: Rickf1985 on December 20, 2016, 05:31 PM
The other relay should be the emissions relay for the pumps.
Nope, that's the magnetic contactor relay for the starter circuit. Used to ensure enough current is supplied to the starter. Unique to the P30 platform. Was part of the slow starter solution when the engine is hot. You see it in the P30 wiring diagrams.
Thanks Dave!!!
Kev
Yes my original is still working in the RV, I just picked up one to have as a backup.
Ok, If they had any more, let the people here know, I'm sure we'd buy them.
High M&J. That's the retrofit for using an of the shelf headlight or something similar relay. IT would require surgery on the OEM plug, and no primer/delay circuit. The one I have has components (transistor, resistors, maybe a diode or two.
As stated earlier, there are vendors who can repair or rebuild what you have. My guess as to why no one has reverse engineered a replacement? Low to no demand...
Bill
until you're dead on the side of the road, then there's a serious demand :)
Good point tmsnyder. We usually don't replace what's not broke. And the side of the road is where it breaks.
If everyone will look back, my intent with this thread was just to point out what I found, and a fix. I don't know how many of us take a soldering pencil with us with the rest of our tools, but if you found the same thing as I did on mine, you could fix it on the side of the road. Hence the statement that the post was a sead.
The failure on my relay was not a component, or mechanical failure but rather a weak part of the design. If the primary reason for it's failure was what you saw at he beginning of this thread, then there may be no need for a replacement. Just do what I did.
I would be curious to see the inside of someones still running OEM relay to see if it is showing any signs of failure in the same place from heat.
I still have my old one. If I come across it again I'll open it up and take pictures to see if had the same damage as yours.
Kev
Refresh my memory Kev. Was the old one not working?
If so, we would like to see the inside, or have you send it to one of us for examination, repair.
They were prone to failure, but I'm trying to determine if this was the common failure meaning anyone would be able to repair theirs rather than be stranded somewhere and have to chop up wiring to splice in something else.
Thanks for your input.
Quote from: tmsnyder on September 21, 2016, 10:28 PM
Nice find and fix!
Greetings all, well being a new be here I will mention about the rig we are now restoring, it is a 1990 Holiday Rambler AlumaLite XL 27' Class A Motorhome, and we have the here mentioned problem of no fuel coming to the TBI injection. First I notice we don't have the hybrid part time fuel prime set up, as we do not have the mechanical fuel pump but an electric in-tank full time fuel pump. Last year the fuel system was working fine, but after another year in storage when we first went to start the engine it did not fire. After looking all over the web none of the places have shown us where the fuel pump relay is located, nothing on the firewall, fuse panel or motor housing area show any signs of said relay ether. So for as an emergency fix we have hooked a fuel line from the AC power generator electric fuel pump to the TBI injection fuel inlet.
Now awaiting delivery of two new electric external fuel pumps we will install later, but we do want to find the fuel pump relay location, after seeing this article about the "The infamous 15528707 fuel pump relay" I think it may be the cause of our problem with our in tank pump. However not finding a fuel pump relay and not hearing any click sound when turning on the ignition it would be nice to locate said relay to see if it has the open circuit problem, by the way that could have been prevented if the makers of the relay had of added more solder to the printed circuit board, a simple drop more would have made this devise to loose its fame by a rather large margin. Thank you all... EB
The fact that you have fuel injection you will not have that relay. You fuel pump will be controlled from the ECM through the OBDI system. The relay should be in the fuse box along with the other relays like the fan relay. I am not familiar with the setup in your RV but in a pick-up this box would be under the hood and apart from the standard fuse box in the passenger compartment.
On edit, I just looked at my 1990 service manual and you should have a carburetor on that RV. A 90 is usually built on an 89 year chassis. Unless you have a really late model coach on a early 90 model chassis. I have a 1990 Pace Arrow and it is carburetted.
Thank you for a rapid response, I have been surfing the web and perhaps ours is a 1990 mfg built motor home that is a 1991 model. If like in the automotive business many vehicles were built a year earlier than sold. I believe the TBI was used in the 1991 Holiday Rambler AlumaLite XL 27' Class A. There seems to be so much confusion on the web lol...
The P30 chassis serial number is affixed to the front of the radiator support drivers side. Use this to determine the year, not generalizations. My 91 Winnebago was built November 90 on a 91 GMC chassis.
Bill
To the best of my knowledge which is also supported by the 1990 & 1992 wiring diagrams, a fuel pump relay is still used. Like in previous years, the relay is still located on the left side engine cover (engine side). For 1990, a Oil Pressure safety switch is also in the circuit. The Oil Pressure safety switch is not reflected on the 1992 wiring diagrams; relay is controlled by ECM
(https://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2Fmobiletech%2F2011-10-01_124218_relay_location.jpg&hash=13f70a576dd00dbe387ccdf0c089b6d31ec625b4)
And Dave corrects me again. He just LOVES doing that. :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao I don't mind, better a proper answer than a guess. Like I said, I knew on the cars and trucks it was in the relay box under the hood, on RV's........... all bets off. I did NOT know they still used that garbage relay though.
I am not sure if it is the 15528707 relay for TBI. All I said was "a relay" is still used that is located the same place as previous years based on the wiring diagrams. Starting in 1990, the 11x17 wiring diagrams not only contain schematics, they also show component locations.
Hey just want to thank you all for your responses, I have used them to search out and find va vin numbers that I have a 1991 Aluma-LiteXL seems after many years of storage from where we bought the rig it had a lot of varnish in the TBI injectors, I found while going through the TBI carburator that the injectors will clog early on. I used a 12 ac transformer to buzz (not for long periods of time it will heat up) that they will free up. You can actually do this with the TBI still mounted on the engine, you will hear them buzz when they are working freely. Knowing I will need to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel pump and clean the tank, for now I needed to to move the rig to another location. At first I used the old stick propane hose over the TBI throtel plate and fire engine to see what works. Then the old electric gas pump from 5 gal tank of gas inlet, the pump is a 7 - psi but the engine fires and is able to be moved. As for fuel relay nothing found but this being injection the ECM electronic system, fuel fuse stays hot so I assume fuel pump is stalled from gum varnish. Again thanks for all your efforts, all I can say is keep googling until what your looking into makes sense, and look out for youtube posts so many are way out there lol... But still learning more about it...
Ran across this while researching this topic:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28535405.cfm
It supposedly is a relay that can substitute for the 15528707 with some pin-out mods.
Hello all,
I found this forum from googling, trying to fix my RV. It was the infamous relay. From what I understand they donââ,¬â,,¢t make it anymore but someone posted a link to a replacement that was the same thing, Airtex 1R1240 from ââ,¬Å"Same day auto partsââ,¬Â in CA. It is an exact replacement, it fixed my problem, saved me a bunch of money and I can get from AZ to Missouri with my two dogs and beat the heat.
So I just want to thank you good folks!
HI! saw the post for relay! I bought that one and swapped it for the 707 and no good!! didnt get pump to run!! did you do anything special?? I just got 2 of the older 707 relays today in phx.az.! will try tomorrow!
Thomas, Have you checked the oil pressure safety switch to see if it is working? Or if it is even hooked up? And made sure you were getting power to the relay on the proper wire? And that the relay is grounded? Seems to me that with all the relays you have tried there is a wiring issue and not a relay issue.
HI RICK!! glad you saw my post!! YES! the oil switch works, got power,and i jumped it with a paper clip! IVE got 2 good relays,they are both like new inside,and i did not see that flaw in the solder that was talked about way back ! I know im gettig power to the relay,i checked it last time,by test lite on the pins on the plug and! i have not yet this time, all the wier is in good shape! O K now I dont find a fuse for the fuel pump! RV only has a tiny little fuse box! should it have one?? NOW back last month or so, I had the new pump in the tank run for a test! but I dont re member how I did that! how i jumped it, I just remember it pumped so gas when i tested it,, cause I was realy worried earlyer that I had fogoten to connect the pump inside the tank,BUT its OK it will pump, just dont remember what I did. I did not hear or feel anything with the new relays when I turned the key! should it buzz?? THE old relay was completly rusted inside,it got water inside! I thinh it has been like that for a long,long time. can you tell me how to test this out with my test blite?? CALL ME 520 205 1737 !!
ALSO!! I tried a new # 1r1240 relay like the other guy did no good! and FYI I have the 4barel carb no tbi,I ask him in a post how he got the 1r1240 to work
Latter this same day !!! I remember that I used a piece of "like gauge" wier to jump across diferent pins on the pig tale or wier end that plugs into the rely!! AND the pump dumped gas real fast into a bucket!!
Thomas, I wish there was more I could tell you but you are working on a coach that I don't have wiring diagrams for so basically all I can do is give advice based on GM and Winnebago diagrams. We have been over that stuff several times now. I would completely forget about trying to get the original relay working at this point and retrofit a standard Bosch relay into it. You can wire it so that when you hit the starter it will activate the pump while the starter is cranking and that way if the carburetor is empty you will get gas right away. Once you stop cranking it will revert back to the oil pump safety switch. You have to remember that the carburetor has a bowl full of gas and unless it is sitting for long periods you have a reserve in there which is plenty to get started on. Plus you have the mechanical pump on the engine which, if it is good, should provide some gas. The electric pump is supposed to just be an auxiliary. I have been really busy lately with doctors and trying to get my yard cleaned up so I don't really have time to talk on the phone unless it is absolutely necessary.
I suggest you read through this thread starting on the second page, It should give you all you need to know to retrofit in the relay and also will give you a picture of all the diferent Bosch relays and part numbers and explanation of the right one to use.
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=8795.25 (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=8795.25)
Jumping the connector is the way to test the pump. It also means that the fuse is good, b/c the pump is getting power. But in case you didn't find it, the chassis would have its own fuse panel or panels. Try on the firewall near your left drivers foot. (assuming this a left hand drive?) Also under the hood may be one, it's been a while since I had an 80's chevy van though. Try YouTube for people working on 80's chevy vans to see where fuses are, or service manual.
So you've narrowed it down to the relay. Try the ones you have. Just b/c they look good inside doesn't mean they are. They could still be fried. If neither of them work then you need to get a good one or do the modification to use a common relay as a swap.
I'm not surprised that the relay referenced in the above post didn't work, the pins look to be arranged differently than the original.
Here is an excellent excellent writeup, with a wiring diagram!! to show you how to wire a replacement generic relay to work.
The little bit that the relay won't give you is a 5 second priming of the carburetor, so this is done with a momentary switch which you would hold for 5 seconds before cranking over the engine. Then it will operate as original after that.
http://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/5893981467
THANK YOU!!! Rick and T S !! I went to Phx. Az. yesterday and pulled two of those 707s from wrecked , 80s R Vs ,opened them up and they were like new inside (made in USA!) Pluged them in without the covers on to see if THe swithch with the set of points would work,nothing !! no buzz either! I will rewire the new type in real soon! but just wanted to see if I could ,is the blue one!use the original type relay, specialy if I could get 2 used one from other RVs... IF YOU are willing!!! I would like to try just a few more tricks!!?? the Plug end has 5 wiers,the one thats hot when the key is on is the blue one, I jumped it to the tan one and thats how I got the new pump to run! Ive read ALL the post on this subject way back when i first joined the fourn, s0 Im up on everything to that point! I just wanted to see if I could find original one!! ANYWAYS!! I also had a new relay th ................. I did something on the key board!!just now that cleared about 5 or 6 lines!! so ill stop now!!!??
O K !!! 04/27/2019 FOR those of you that are familar with the history on this relay like Iam! 1st: rick,did you ever get any of those relays so you could check them out like you said you wanted to? 2nd:Ive now have 3 of the "707" type relay and one rusted one from my RV, I need to know a few things to go on! IM not sure Im getting the right power from my ignition switch to run the relay! I have no hot wiers with key off, and I only have power to the blue at the relay plug! when the key is turned to "ON" should I have another hot wier besides the blue one?? to run that original relay? the blue is at the "85" pin with key on.! When does the relay get power to the "30"pin to switch between "87/87a" ?does it happen when I go to "start"?? Should I at least hear AND see ( I have the cover off the relay) see the contacts start clicking?? WHEN I first bought this RV it workred fine ,I lived in it all for my work, not much travel at all! I did clean the motor occastionaly at car wash then park it again,I think thats when I forced water into the relay,, because it got harder and harder to start over time, I tried to run it every few weeks!! SO IM thinking that all I need is to replace the relay with a clean dry one, the 3,I have are like new inside ,even that week spot in the solder that evryone was posting about in 2016!!are not a problem !! I cant get acess to the electrical manuals yet to see what wiers are in the ignition switch!! OR to read how the starting steps are when the key is turned! THANKS!!
P.S. I have a paper clip jumping the oil presure switch,! so the power goes right on through without the motor being on first!
Do you have the 86 pin running to ground? You have to have that pin grounded for the coil to close the circuit when power is applied to pin 85. This will activate the relay and close the circuit between 30 and 87 and send power to the fuel pump.
The CORRECT wiring for a Bosch relay is as follows. Ignition in on pin 86 (this will be the wire from the oil pressure safety switch). Ground out on pin 85. This is what will actuate the relay to power up the pump.
Battery power through a 25 amp fuse in on pin 30. Power out to pump on pin 87.
NOW, You might or might not have a magnetic starter relay on your coach, most heavy duty GM's had one mounted over top of the alternator. If you do then you run a 12ga. wire from the STARTER side heavy battery terminal to the pin 87A terminal, This will run the pump only while cranking.
If you do not have that starter relay then the safest way to do it is to put in a primer button. You really should not need this anyway.
Here is the relay you need and I strongly suggest you get the matching plug to go with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332019150-Relay/dp/B0010ADJIE/ref=asc_df_B0010ADJIE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312026024613&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4453006682325298170&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003783&hvtargid=pla-568137619883&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-332019150-Relay/dp/B0010ADJIE/ref=asc_df_B0010ADJIE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312026024613&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4453006682325298170&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003783&hvtargid=pla-568137619883&psc=1)
IN the motor home manual is a diagram at (A7-7-7 ) for the oem relay! what I need is to know what nunber to put with the 5 wiers, 30,87,85,ect:I know Im looking at a contcts and a coil, but I dont know how to label!! Then i can make sure each wier goes to right place!! SO, Pin #4 on original relay is drk blue wier,andcomes from oil switch, so you said that makes it #86 ?? I would like to find out how to label the other 4 wiers! ( HEY! IS there a manual of the p30s that just has the elestrical?? I thought I read that GM split up the manual that way!! is there one in our library??) I wish I could find out how that other member ,recently, just pluged in the replacement relay,and it worked just fine!!!???(1r1240)? I did try manualy squezing the contacts closed with both relays pluged in and key on, nothing! That new replacement relay (1r1240) looks exactly the same out side ,but inside it doesnt have the small circut board inside ,,just coil,and contacts! I also had said that I need a diagram of the ignition switch,to see if I have all the wiers that its suposed to have!