Floor Covering Option Advice

Started by mightybooboo, June 20, 2010, 10:52 AM

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mightybooboo

Sent: 9/5/2003

Mrs Booboo wants the carpet OUT! What have you done?  Does tile/linoleum hold up on creaky floor?  Pergo type hardwood?  Or is carpeting or painted floor an answer.  Really need true life experiences you tried.
Thanks a lot
BooBoo

JohnandColeen

Sent: 9/5/2003

When we first decided to re-carpet our Winnie, we made a heavy paper template of the floor, taping the tricky parts into one large pattern. Now, we can replace the rugs more efficiently. I agree with others, that remnants are the way to go. We went with a dark solid color which was a mistake (it shows all sorts of lint etc. Next time, I think I'll go with a tweed.  We also invested in some inexpensive long runner type rugs from Walmart.  If it's raining out or if we are in a particularly sandy spot, we just roll out the runners and they help keep the main rug a lot cleaner.  When we are done for the weekend, we just shake them out (or wash them if they get gross) and roll them back up for the next trip. A runner is only $5-$10 and saves a lot of headaches.
John and Coleen
Alaska

Beatty1950

Sent: 9/5/2003

The existing floor covering is made up of 3 different materials.The front seat area is a light tan shag while the cabin area is a short kitchen type carpet (greens and blues) and the bath area is the original green tile.

As my D19 was only adopted 1 month ago, all that I have done so far is to purchase a 3 piece rug set from campingworld that I have laid down in the cabin area.  My goal is to replace all the carpet to make consistent thru the whole motorhome.

CampYoey

Sent: 9/5/2003

I ripped out the nasty, smelly carpet last weekend. I purchased some Congoleum vinyl flooring - one piece and will install that this weekend.  I am skim coating the plywood floor and will staple the perimeter of the vinyl. I will cover the staples with 1/4 round molding. I have two Goldens. I like being able to sweep the camper clean, I had a vinyl floor in my pop up. I have some bathroom rugs I use to scatter around the camper for those chilly mornings.

CampYoey

Spudboy

Sent: 9/5/2003

BooBoo :

You know my very happy solution :  I stripped out old carpet (2 layers - ick!) and floor tile below that, sanded plywood floor and painted with two coats of G R A Y garage floor paint (it makes the space so G A  ).  Over this I installed 2 ft. x 2 ft.  G R A Y puzzle lock anti-fatigue floor mat.  Make sure you buy extra stock, so you can replace a damaged tile.  The material is about 5/8 inch thick, washable and really helps deaden coach noise and floor squeaks.  The floor mat was too thick for the driver's platform so I made giant floor mats out of 3 ft. x 5 ft. entry mats from Home Depot.  They vacuum up nicely.  I left the original carpet on the doghouse and firewall, but painted it black...looks pretty good. 

Like many of the others who have responded, I also have a entry mat type runner that runs from front to back.  When things get skanky outside, we roll this out.  Works great.  Store in space under rear bed platform, which we never fold up.

We are headed out this week for our first major trip.  Going to Jackson Hole, Jellystone, etc.  On this trip I will take some pictures of Winnie (and Spudgril , for all you Doubting Thomas's!)  Will post week after next when we get home.

Spudgril  is very nervous ...she lacks confidence in Winnie's health and my repairs.  We'll show her!

Spudboy, the confident .

jbrt1989

Sent: 9/5/2003

I don't know of any one who has put tile or Pergo type laminate floorings into one of these older Winnies..   With age, mileage, etc,  I would be worried about cracking tile or laminate flooring if there was any flexing of the the chassis on the road.  Not to mention the weight.  Tile could add quite a bit of weight. 

Sheet vinyl flooring would be my recommendation.   Fairly easy to install, and replace later when it gets worn, dirty, tears, etc.  As David pointed out, remnant carpet pieces work well too.  Since you're not looking to cover a very large area at all, remnant pieces should be easy to find and they're darn cheap.  I went to a carpet store myself when I was replacing my carpets.   All I replaced was the carpets down the middle aisle and under the dinnette.  Basically only where the carpet is seen.  I still have the old ugly shag carpet in places not seen, was in good shape and gives great padding inside the compartments for storage.  I paid more for the supplies I needed than the actual carpet and since I only replaced what was visible, when I go to replace it again, it'll be easier the next time around.  Although, I may go with vinyl flooring myself next time.  Easy to clean and it's easier to store a mop and broom than a Hoover. 

A side note... it's also possible to find the carpet pieces you may need at contruction sites. I replaced the carpet in my pop-up camper that way.  Many times they just toss pieces that are of the size we need for these things.  Then the cost is dirt cheap.

DaveVA78Chieftain

Sent: 9/5/2003

In my other post, I too said I plan on using tile flooring with area rugs.  While I did not realize that so many are doing the same thing, I simply thought through the upkeep issue.  That was why I chose the tile flooring approach.  My wife used to raise ferrets.  I learned the hard way that tile flooring is the only way to go from that experience (uck!).  That cleaning issue is also why I am going with shades of light gray (will also lighten up the Winebago dark cave).  Gray hides dirt well.  Just have to make sure everything I use is easily cleanable (including the wall paper).
[move][/move]


mightybooboo

Sent: 9/5/2003

Once again you all came thru with great replies in record times,thanks to all of you! I was doing a web search and getting frustrated,no good ideas there at all.Mrs Boo wants vinyl tile or sheet,and it looks do-able,unlike the WEB where about all I could find was green or orange shag that is actually recommended by the manufacturer sites,what a bunch of chickens their lawyers are.So what if I dont get a 25 year warranty.She will have her carpetless floor afterall.I give spudboy the most original design award,cant get more durable than that,and would work for me but not Mrs B,doesnt quite have our appreciation for practicality.Also amazing how resourceful Winnie owners are.

Crazytrain

Sent: 9/5/2003 

I did my Indian floor with laminated floating floor, 6inches X 36Inches boards. I put stainless track for the stairs and
latex caulking around the edges. It looks great, no a squeaking sound, easy to clean for 75.00$. It took me 7 hours to install.
In the driver/passenger area I put heavy duty black rubber carpet with metal screw and sunk washer, it is easier to clean.
I'm sorry I dont have pics. I'm gonna put a scanner on my christmas gift list.

Lefty

Sent: 9/6/2003

I put in a light tan Berber carpet in the living space, and installed vinyl flooring in the back that looks like wood flooring for the kitchen and bath area. I haven't gotten to the front cockpit area yet. total cost=$40.00 carpet and padding,$12.95 carpet tack strips,$17.00 vinyl flooring,$7.95 flooring glue
I reserve the right to reject your reality and substitute my own...

Beatty1950

Sent: 9/17/2003

Well I plunged into the floor covering area.  Started to just clean old carpet and pulled up one corner, and then .....

Step 1: Pulled up the old kitchen type carpet from the main cabin area.  Pleased to see plywood sub-floor was solid.

Step 2: Sanded floor and painted entire floor with 2 coats of floor paint.  ( Ok Ok, this a future step which is still possible since my step 3 did not require glue.

Step 3:  Purchased from Schucks 5 packs of rubber Tiles (6 2ft by 2ft in each pack).  Floor has diamond plate design and is dark gray in color.  Rubber (Anti-Fatigue) Floor has puzzle ends to attach pieces together and include 10 finish pieces to make sides of area smooth.  Neat stuff for $10 per pack.  Main Cabin area only used 2 Packs. 

Step 4: Use extra diamond plate rubber floor trim pieces to create moulding around entire floor.  Plan to use contact cement to glue moulding to walls only to allow removal of floor in the future without destroying the floor.  May reconsider this future step and use metal angle trim (diamond plate if I can find it) and screw down (no glue) to create moulding for easier removal.

Plan to extend floor to bath area and then take on the Drivers area and dog house.

Will post pictures soon.  I use throw rugs to cover most areas and give warmer feel to the toes.
 
Oops, I forgot to mention that tip to locate the Diamond Plate Rubber floor received from none other than Spudboy.

denisondc

Sent: 9/17/2003

This is an excellent thread, will go into my carry-on notebook. I plan to recarpet eventually, and the reason for sticking with carpet, beside originality, is for the sound-deadening while driving, and the insulation from the warmth of the slow-cooker-underneath-effect, when you get to a campsite after hours of driving. I would be willing to put in the original type shag -my originality fetish-, but have no idea what its original color was! denison

shagebago3142

Sent: 9/17/2003

Funny you should mention wanting to stay with the original type carpeting- ours is still there! I guess the previous owners decided to just cover the old carpet with new carpet. We want to strip it down to the subfloor and start over-eventually!! The carpet now is blue and in great shape (even though it is not what I would have chosen. The original carpet is not shag in our winne; it is more of a short, tight weave- green of course. I'll see if I can post a pic of it.

Moondisc1

Sent: 7/28/2004

Gutted the dirty nasty smelly ugly (and those are the good points) orange shag carpets & interior out of my 78 Brave.
Stapled down a Luan subfloor, and used place & press tiles.
Got a grey heavy duty carpet remnet and did the front area, engine cover, etc.
Used Chevy Astro van capitains chairs for driver & passenger.
Thew out the fold up bed, table and chairs in the back. Cut a king size 4 post waterbed down to doublebed size, and put a matress on it.
A friend had several boxes of vinyl waynes coating (looks like vinyl soffit to me. Locks together like vinyl siding. Used that for the ceiling & back wall.
Best part was, I did all this for less than $300!

lockman

Sent: 7/30/2004

PO had removed most of the old orange shag carpeting and replaced with sheet lino and foam backed carpet in the engine area. Removed all, installed glued together laminate oak finish flooring in rear area and used same flooring to resurface all drawer and door faces. New foam backed carpet going in this weekend up front. Floor was damp under lino when removed, seemed to trap moisture, let dry several weeks as interior and roof redone. Thought it was dry!!. Floor was not very level, some areas previously replaced. Leveled best we could, attaching supports underneath and levelling compound above. Installed new flooring in one day using recommended thin (styrofoam?) underlay. Looks great, some flex as flooring was not the most expensive and on the thinner side( great sale price though). Laminate floor surface is almost indestructable, and very easy to clean. Three months later still looks great but floor now completely dried out and some bumps have shown up. Would use again but buy thicker flooring and install sub floor to level and support. Still though, completely thrilled with final look .

Jlogue88

Sent: 8/3/2004

When I gutted mine the first thing I did was rip out the the nasty green and yellow shag. When it was time to put it back together I went with carpet [except in the bathroom] Its easy (1 remove old carpet) (2 remove whatever rubber backing stay on the ply wood) (3 cover floor with addhesive) (4 lay down pad) (5put new carpet down)

nailhead

Sent: 8/7/2004

Do not use any type of laminate flooring (pergo, versalock, etc.)  it will cup and warp under the average changes in moisture through season changes and even overnight.  the Vinyl tiles are ok, but eventually spread and look bad due to same deal- contant changes in temp and humidity.  If you're up for it, hardwood oak over petroleum based adhesives last forever as long as it's sealed before polyurathane--3 coats.  Moisture hasn't gotten to mine in four years and I even had a rook leak running down a wall.  Otherwise, do the old paper template and glue linoleum down.  If you are dead set on having soft carpet under your awakening feet, then look for restaurant quality carpet.  You're not looking at a lot of area so the 30.00 dollars and up per square yard won't set you back too many paychecks.  The restaurant carpets are a very low cut pile that takes years to show traffic, come in a lot of non-dirt showing prints, and come triple scotch-guarded.  Western Carpets has a web site.  If none of these suits your needs,  Berbers are a nice way to go.  Skylights with sod---to hard getting the lawnmower through the side door.  Good luck.

Oz

Sent: 8/8/2004 

I have the thin, roll type linoleum, cut to size and not glued to the floor, as my first layer.  On top of that is the carpet and softer roll flooring in the kitchenette and bath.  The first layer was already there and I figured that it would make a good dampness insulator from the top layers. 

The softer flooring in the kitchenette will not withstand scrapes, cuts, or gouges very well but, we aren't using the rig as a work truck either so, we haven't had any problem with it.
Why did we choose it and get the carpet from Ollie's?... same answer as a lot of us would give... so much to do... so little money.  We just have to make sure we don't drag anything across the floor.  And, the whole thing is easily removed if needed, even with the edging trim added for detail.  This isn't the best quality stuff but, with the care we give it, it will look good and last for many years. 
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

kgreenlaw

Sent: 8/10/2004

I spent a lot of time looking at alternatives to the nasty 1982 sculpted carpet in my diesel Brave and came to this conclusion:

The PVC multi-lock versa-tile turns out to work very well.  It's reasonably easy to cut, fits together very well, flexes just enough, doesn't seem to have made the vehicle any noisier, and...

...most importantly...

...doesn't hold on to all the dirt you invariably will track in to a recreational vehicle.

Plus the people at Greatmats.com were awfully eficcient and nice to deal with (Wisconsin, donchaknow).

Everything else I looked at was either too heavy or had the wrong finish (diamond tread stuff looks nice, but the surface on everything I saw was too tacky for my taste - the raised coin smooth PVC cleans much easier).

So far I really like it.

--Ken

moodypeople

Sent: 8/13/2004 9:54 AM

We have hardwood flooring throughout our living space in our 1977 Brave.  The PO owned a hardwood flooring company - it was a natural upgrade for them and we are very pleased with their choice.  The color is a light blond - natural stain.  The living space walls are painted bright white with navy highlights - it is very light and bright - the flooring really enhances the all white interior.  In the doghouse and driving sections up front - we have a short pile dark blue carpet.  Both flooring options were installed expertly and look to be able to go the distance. 

We have a bassethound-sorta and when he begins to travel with us - the clean up will be a snap.
 

78brave1

Sent: 10/4/2004

i put parkay flooring in mine .

smp5937

Sent: 3/16/2005

I am going to be the owner of a 1973 27' Chieftain in a couple weeks. The fella I am buying from told me that the floor was replaced by hte previous owner and it is the hardwood type / Pergo stuff. He has lived in this for 4 years while building the 5000sq. ft. home he will be moving into shortly, thus freeing up the motor home for me to take. I have not seen it except for pictures yet, but he is making me a deal I acnnot refuse, so unless when I go to get it there are major problems I can't handle, I will own it. He seems to like the flooring, but he has not taken it on a trip at all. He bought it to live in, and that is about all he has doen since buying it. It has mostly sat the past four years, with LITTLE driving. When I get it, I will let you know about the flooring, but I think I might lean toward replacing it anyway, simply because I prefer a carpet, but the wife may talk me into a linoleum.

denisondc

Sent: 3/16/2005

I like the carpet in mine, due to it absorbing some of the noise while driving, and being comfy on the feet while parked. Cleaning it - well that is a constant issue.
When you remove that wooden flooring, see if there are soft spots in the subfloor, indicating some delamination of the plwyood, from being wet.

PrimeJlh

Sent: 4/18/2005 3:24 PM

Last Oct, 04, you posted a note on your parkay flooring. I am about ready to rip up the carpet from the dog house to the bedroom on my 89 SuperChief 32' and am at a loss as to what to replace it with. Other posts say not to use prego flooring, as the moisture warps it. I would like a wood floor, not a carpet replacement or vinyl tile replacement. How did you install the parkay floor? Is it nailed, or just glued? If glued, what product was used? How did you treat the edges and steps? Any details you can give me will be appreciated. Cleveland, Ohio.

Slantsixness

Sent: 4/19/2005

I have (had) a linoleum floor in Smurbago.

I hate it.

Using new carpet throughout, except for the rear storage area floor.

Real hardwood nailed and glued would stay down, but would be noisy going down the road.

Pergo (laminate flooring) is a problem. especially if it gets wet or stays wet. The coach flexing while driving, and then just walking on glued down Pergo will destroy it. It's not made to be glued down. Cute and not very cheap alternative to carpet.... not as good.
Pergo is essentially presswood and a thin laminate (and not usually real wood laminate).

Carpet. The quiestest alternative.

Tom
Remembering My 72 D20RG Brave "Smurfbago" The old girl never let me down, and she's still on the road today. quick! get out the Camera... I spotted another junkyard full of Winnies...